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Old 01-23-2010, 08:52 AM   #1
Takefive
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Default Advice for prospective 2720 SD owners

Hello All,
My wife and I are considering purchasing a 2005 2720 SD and would appreciate any feedback on this model as well as purchasing advice (for sale by owner). More specifically, are there any problems that we could expect with this model year and are there substantial differences between this year and newer models?
Thanks,
John
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:36 AM   #2
Bill
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There were a lot of changes in the 2001-2002 time frame - the air conditioner moved from the side to the roof, for example. But by 2005, things had pretty well settled down. That's not to say that that it is identical to today's models, but I can't think of any major changes.

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Old 01-25-2010, 09:09 AM   #3
camp2canoe
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We purchased a new 2619 in 2005 and except for blowing a tire last fall have had no defects or other than routine service on the bearings, etc. We have camped a total 0f 43 nights and have also used the TM as an extra guest room for family gatherings. 05' was one of the years they didn't do a stellar job of trimming the counter edges so make sure you pick up heavy items (television, microwave, etc.) off the counter as opposed to sliding them off or you will get chips! - camp2canoe
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:38 AM   #4
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We have a 2005 TM 2720 (with the front bunk) that we purchased new and have been very happy with it.

In terms of repairs over the last 5 years.

warranty:

1. kink in air vent tube fr 40 gallon water tank
2. crack in frame due to probable bad weld for swing away tongue.
3. I made them show me how to op the stove top up when I could not.

There were a couple of other minor items that I no longer recall what they were.

The latch for the rear bed had been rubbing on the bathroom wall trip while towing, so I had the trim replaced for cosmetic reasons.

There was a bit of a lip that should not have been the along the edge of the laminate (Formica) counter tops. This resulted in chipping the side piece from sliding items off the edge of the counter instead of lifting them. I had the dealer repair that recently.

I broke an outside corner latch by not making sure it was clear before lowering the front shell.

I broke the rear shell disconnect switch in the bathroom wall while trying to adjust it.

I have some caulk that I need to replace. But since I store it indoors and it does not rain in California during the 9 month camping season I am under-motivated to do that. Maybe this spring.

Otherwise, I can not think of anything else.
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Old 01-28-2010, 12:57 PM   #5
Takefive
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Default Thank you and a few more questions

Thanks for the information contained in the three replies. We looked at the TM earlier in the week and will see it again next week to operate all systems and make a final decision - probable purchase. With our 2002 Toyota Tundra, do you recommend a WDH? Is so, any suggestions regarding brand, as well as thoughts on a good brake controller. We'll also be carrying bicycles and wondered about how to attach a receiver to the back of the TM. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:56 PM   #6
Scott O
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Regarding the WDH, you may or may not need one. Do the following: Measure carefully the distance from the fender bottom center on a front and back wheel, to the ground, same side. Then attach the TM and remeasure. If the front goes up and the back goes down you need a WDH. A properly adjusted WDH will allow the front and rear to sag the same amount. Problem with having the front go up is that you will be decreasing steering and braking. There is a primer on this forum if someone will point you to it.
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Old 01-28-2010, 04:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott O View Post
Regarding the WDH, you may or may not need one. Do the following: Measure carefully the distance from the fender bottom center on a front and back wheel, to the ground, same side. Then attach the TM and remeasure. If the front goes up and the back goes down you need a WDH. A properly adjusted WDH will allow the front and rear to sag the same amount. Problem with having the front go up is that you will be decreasing steering and braking. There is a primer on this forum if someone will point you to it.
Fwiw, with my 2002 Silverado 4x4 6.5 foot bed attaching the TM 2720 causes the rear bumper to sag about 5/8 inch. I do not use WDH. I did not measure the lift in the front.

I would not be concerned about a slight sag. I would be surprised to find zero sag. Mine will sag if I stand on the bumper (200 pounds), but not much.
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Old 02-05-2010, 04:51 PM   #8
fischnet52
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Default WDH and Brake Controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott O View Post
Regarding the WDH, you may or may not need one. Do the following: Measure carefully the distance from the fender bottom center on a front and back wheel, to the ground, same side. Then attach the TM and remeasure. If the front goes up and the back goes down you need a WDH. A properly adjusted WDH will allow the front and rear to sag the same amount. Problem with having the front go up is that you will be decreasing steering and braking. There is a primer on this forum if someone will point you to it.
John, by now you are likely new owners of the 2005 2720? I'll just add my 2 bits, and suggest you'll be happier using the WDH. We have a 2008 2720SD and in my picture you'll see it hitched on our trip back home, no WDH, but TM dry w/no gear and TV bed about empty. I planned to use a WDH because when I load the TM and stash a lot of gear in the bed of the Dakota, it makes for too much sag. With the WDH we are level (within a 3/8") and the ride is much better. In my reading the Forum links & shopping around, I settled on a 500-800lb trunnion by Valley. Quick, easy hitch-up and gives good clearance on rough ground.

I have the Tekonsha PRODIGY and got it at e-Trailer.com, best price I could find (currently ~$99), easy install (order the harness for the truck) and works flawlessly.

Good luck! Fred
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