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Old 03-18-2008, 09:45 AM   #1
Bob&Karen
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Default Microwave/Convection Oven

We just returned from an approx. 5200 mile round-trip to the great desert southwest. Traveled over some fairly rough Interstate roads in Alabama, Mississippi, and Louisiana both on the way there and on the way back. Some were so rough (expansion joints in the concrete) that I didn't feel safe driving more than 55 mph.

Anyway, the microwave/convection oven support shelf broke itself loose from the rear of the cabinet. Called TM factory and they told me to install a 1x1 cleat on the wall. Went to Home Depot in Tucson and got the necessary materials. Was a pretty simple fix. On the way home, the shelf had fallen again, this time on the left side so that the oven was tilted to the left. Fixed that with a couple of screws.

The design of this particular shelf and support system is lacking, IMHO. That oven appears to be pretty heavy for the lightweight materials used to support it. I realize (and appreciate) that TM engineers are very weight-conscious, but feel that they should use more robust materials in that one area if the combo oven is to be installed.

Otherwise had no issues with the TM and had a great time.

Bob
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Old 03-18-2008, 04:19 PM   #2
2blueranger
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Default microwave/convection oven

As I recall, I had the same problem with my 2005 3124KS. The microwave almost fell out in the floor on the way home from the dealer. I reinforced it with a metal strip and screws. Like you I think it should have been placed better.
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Old 03-18-2008, 05:58 PM   #3
P and B
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Our MW jumped out on our maiden voyage. I replaced the shelf itself with a piece of 5/8" plywood and installed new cleats. I bored four holes in the plywood where the feet of the MW are so it sits down a little bit into the shelf. I put two threaded rods through the shelf on either side of the MW and put a steel bar across the top of the MW and bolted it down. You should double nut both end if you consider doing this and use large diameter washers against the wood to keep it from coming loose. Finally I had to replace the front of the cabinet bracing that were damaged when it jumped out. Oh, the MW had to be replaced since it was all banged up too. Expensive for TM and time consuming for me- Needless to say I wasn't happy.

Bob is absolutely right about the weight to sturdiness trade off. This was one instance where an extra 2 lbs would have made a big difference.

Phil
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Old 03-19-2008, 07:31 AM   #4
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Besides the bumpy roads that contributed to your loose oven, out of balance tires could also be a culprit. As noted in other threads, the constant bumping of unbanced tires can loosen up screws and such. If you don't see weights on your wheels, then your wheels have probably not been balanced.

Chap
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Old 03-19-2008, 10:36 AM   #5
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Chap - tires are balanced so I don't think that contributed. The microwave didn't actually come out - it appears there is a metal strap holding it to the shelf. It was the shelf bracket(s) that broke. The initial break was at the rear. When we set up at a campground, the entire MW was tilted about 30 degrees to the rear. I fixed that pretty easily and feel that it's pretty secure.

The second break occurred on the left side, where the little corner cabinet is just inside the entry door. There really doesn't appear to be anything there to attach the shelf to, although there is a piece of 1X1 attached to the underside of the MW shelf here. As a temp fix, I put a couple of wood screws from the cabinet side through into that piece of 1X1 underneath the shelf. That cabinet backing isn't sturdy at all and will need something further for reinforcement prior to another long trip. I just need to figure out what to do.

Bob
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Old 05-04-2008, 02:28 PM   #6
P and B
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Default Fixing the MW Installation

I had to fix this again. Made some hardware errors the first time around by using wingnuts. Hopefully the new hardware scheme will fix it for a while. I'm getting tired of doing this. Just follow the slides. If you have any questions, send me an email.

As I point out in the slides, if you use a 1 X oak piece instead of the metal and turn it so the grain is facing up to increase it's rigidity, this would probably work better than my metal piece, which bends toward the rod creating a bow in the middle that doesn't exert any downward pressure there. The wood would be more uniform.

If it jumps out again, I'll probably make this change.

BTW, the MW jumped out the second time after having the tires balanced. The problem with trailers is that they have absolutely no suspensions. It would be nice if they did considering all of the things that can hop around in there.

Phil
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Old 05-04-2008, 02:57 PM   #7
rtcassel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P and B View Post
The problem with trailers is that they have absolutely no suspensions. It would be nice if they did considering all of the things that can hop around in there.
TM states that they have rubber torsion axles with independent suspension.
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Old 05-04-2008, 04:54 PM   #8
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You couldn't prove it by the way things bounce around in there. I believe they have rubber around the axles.

Phil
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Old 05-04-2008, 06:04 PM   #9
Bill
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Phil -

I don't have the microwave, so I can't respond to most of what's happening. I know that in my setup, it appears that the conventional oven hangs from the cooktop, and the cooktop hangs from the countertops on either side. There are no bolts that I can see into the plywood sidewalls of the opening, or into the backwall (the wall of the TM). The front of the assembly is screwed into the face frame of the cabinet, but I suspect that is to secure it in the cabinet and prevent it from trying to "swing" on the top hangers.

Again in the setup with the conventional oven, the cross brace that you refer to in your second picture is not weight bearing. I don't know if putting a load on it would have any effect on the problem you are having.

I gather that the microwave does not hang from the cooktop, but sits on a shelf? I personally would not rely on the thin plywood of the cabinet sidewall to hold that shelf. Instead, I would cut a couple pieces of 1x8 and place them vertically, against the cabinet sidewall, with the bottom end on the floor and the top end supporting the microwave shelf. I would glue them to the sidewall of the cabinet, but simply to keep them in place, not for support.

If things are bouncing around, it certainly sounds like unbalanced wheels. It could also be a bubbled tread or an out-of-round tire, of course. It is possible to balance an out-of-round tire, but it will still shake the trailer to death. Since I balanced my tires (both the old 14" and the new 15" tires), it rides quiet as a kitten, and I think other owners have experienced the same thing. Do you trust your tire jockey? Did you watch him do the job? The only time anything bounces is if we hit a pothole, or a speed bump too fast. And then we bounce in the tow vehicle, too.

Your statement that "The problem with trailers is that they have absolutely no suspensions" is uninformed and incorrect, and you should remove it. The Tor-Flex axle is considered an excellent product and is used on a large number of camping trailers and boat trailers. In my experience, it does not bounce as much as a leaf spring suspension. And unlike a leaf spring suspension, which often needs shock absorbers to quiet it down, the TorFlex is inherently self-damping. I think it would be worthwhile to visit the Dexter Axle web site and come to understand how the TorFlex axle is built and how it works. There is no "rubber around the axle".

By the way, there is a one in a million chance that the swing arm of the suspension could hit the frame if it was installed in a slightly wrong position. That would make for a heck of a WHAM when the suspension flexes. It would also leave a mark on the frame rail. (I think you would also be able to hear it, but that's a different question.) If you lie on your back in front of the wheel, you should be able to see the path that the swing arm will take as the suspension rises, and confirm that it will clear the frame rail. You should also be able to see the mark on the frame if it is indeed hitting it. As I say, this is a one-in-a-million thing, but you've done enough work already that this easy extra step isn't much.

It is a nasty and frustrating problem, and I wish you well with it. Please keep us informed.

Bill
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Old 05-04-2008, 06:50 PM   #10
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Bill- Not sure whether I "trust" my tire guy or not. They found one tire that could not be balanced period and TM replaced it so I can only assume they know what they are doing. You are correct that the MW sits on the shelf. The shelf blew out on our maiden voyage along with the front cabinet rail. I replaced both. This last time, as I pointed out, the MW let loose after I balanced the tires (which I did based on all the advice I got on the forum here).

I took a look at the axle design and now see that it uses a torsion mechanism- certainly better than my rubber axle description. Nevertheless, the proof of the pudding is in the eating and there is a lot of pudding spilling about in there. I think what's happening is partly the fault of our failing US interstate infrastructure, which often resembles the surface of the moon. Not much to do about that. Maybe I need a hovertrailer?

I honestly think I now have this thing licked but will report on my ongoing saga as it, or if it, continues to unfold. Here's to hoping it doesn't. BTW, the dealer told me they've been repairing lots of these for the same reason and that TM is trying to figure out a better mounting solution. My fix takes too long and hasn't proven yet to be effective (although I'm kind of fond of the eyelets and rubber strap). I am keeping my fingers crossed this time hoping to avoid the "third time's a charm" axiom.

Phil
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