New TM on the way

Hi,

We ordered a 2730SL from Dinubarv yesterday. Both the wife and I are really excited to get the unit (4 to 6 weeks). We have been perusing this site for different ideas and tips and it has been a wealth of information.

Riverrat - You wanted to know about the sales experience. We did a once over on a couple of units he had (had been there last year and spent more time) about 40 minutes. We went into his office and 20 minutes later we were shaking hands with a sales slip in our hands. As to price, he (Dave) came down a reasonable amount, so it seemed fair.

Now I have a couple of questions. First I will be towing with a 2005 Toyota Tacoma and Dave recommended a WDH. I know someone here has the same truck as I do and said he didn't need it. Still curious about that. They sell a Husky WDH. If I go that route is the Husky a decent unit? He wants about $350.

Another question is about the battery. I told them I don't want the one they provide as I have a group 27 Lifeline battery, I kept from my old trailer. I am wondering about the size of the standard battery box, and if it will accommodate my battery. The size of my battery is 7"Wide 13" Long by 10" High. I forgot to measure the box before I left. Does anyone know if this battery will fit?

Lastly, I asked about level bubbles. I thought I read that some folks put one on each corner? What Dave suggested was to have a level (if I can describe it properly) on the hitch. I think you can turn it and it will show side to side and also front to back leveling. He stated it was most important to have the frame level. Would that be adequate?

Mike Anderson
2005 Toyota Tacoma
2007 2720SL (soon)

[Bill]

Mike -

Regarding the use of levels. For years, I used a 6-inch carpenter's level with a magnetic strip set into the back. I would set it on the frame rail near the propane tanks to measure fore-aft levelling, then turn it sideways to measure left-right levelling. Worked well.

Then I decided to go high tech, and bought a couple of the little 2-inch stick-on tube levels, so I could level the TM before unhitching and setting up. I carefully levelled the TM, then glued one on the front face of the TM's upper shell near the front window (to measure left-right levelling). Then I glued the other on the upper shell sidewall, just behind the front wall (to measure fore-aft levelling). The next night, I proudly used these levels to set the TM EXACTLY right. Then I opened the shells, stepped inside, and found the floor to be slanted badly in both directions. How could it be?

As near as I can tell, the shells can (and do) move with respect to the frame and floor. Depending on where they come to rest at the end of the day of driving, they can be off level in any direction. So a level shell does not guarantee a level floor - and a level floor is what you want.

So I agree with Dave - I'm back to using my carpenter's level on the frame. Works every time.

Bill

I know that you can get a WDH for a lot less than $350 at your local U-Haul dealer - that's where I got mine. Rocky Mt Ray had a Tacoma (I believe) that he did a lot of mods to so he could tow at 10,000+ altitudes. I think now he's switched to a Tundra, but I think he used and advocates a WDH. He'll probably chime in on this. As far as the stick on levels, Our 2619 has one on the side of the frame just under where the front shell comes down - you have to lean over to see it, but it works OK. The other is in the box right where the back bed pulls out - not a real good place since you can't see it until you open the rear shell. I "eyeball' the level side to side and use the fore aft level on the side until I open the back shell. Then I do my final adjustments. It works for me.

I use an 8 inch level, that I don't even know where it came from.

I level side to side by measuring the rear bumper and use blocks/boards under the wheels to get it close. Then I level front to rear with the tongue jack. Before I set the corner jacks down I open it up. I use a frying pan with a little water set on the stove to level the stove. The fridge may be off slightly, but it is well within specification. I use the corner jacks to fine tune it to the frying pan.

The first year I leveled to the fridge. That was annoying because any water on the counter ran onto the seat.

Then I started leveling so that any water on the counter top ran back to the wall and then to the sink.

Then I fried an egg and was not happy with the outcome. Now I level the stove.

[commodor47]

Originally Posted by ragmopp

Hi,

Lastly, I asked about level bubbles. I thought I read that some folks put one on each corner? What Dave suggested was to have a level (if I can describe it properly) on the hitch. I think you can turn it and it will show side to side and also front to back leveling. He stated it was most important to have the frame level. Would that be adequate?

Mike Anderson
2005 Toyota Tacoma
2007 2720SL (soon)

I attached a Hoppy Hitch Level to the TM frame, just in front of the tongue jack. Then I parked the TM in a level parking lot, opened it up and used a carpenters level (on the floor, between the refrigerator and the entry) to level the trailer side to side and front to back. Once the trailer was leveled, I calibrated the Hoppy Hitch Level as per the directions.

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/produ...?k=hoppy+hitch

http://picasaweb.google.com/commodor47/HoppyHitchLevel#

Simple to use and easy to install.

ragmopp, thanks for the info. We have met Dave several times and he did not come across as a pushey type. We will probably try to make it to the Sacramento show this Sunday. And make the plunge. I too have to get a WDH/sway & B/C.Curious about Equalizer will search threads.Prodigy seems to be the favorite. Think we have settled on a 2619. Thanks again for remembering me. I stayed up till 2am or so last night reading Honda Ridgeline threads. Happy to find several towing with the RL. Amazed that someone tows a 3326 with the RL. I beleive we will start with the smaller unit for now. We know from past RVing that we do not need a large unit. Maybe when I retire in about 5-years we will get the 3326 and possibly another TV, But I LOVE my RL. The 2619 could be just fine for 2-3 month treks, but will certainly be fine for us for the next 5-years. Anyway contratulations and happy to hear you had a pleasant buying experience. (forgive me but the spell check dosen't seem to be working). I have gotten to used to it at work.
riverrat
JIm Davis
Kelseyville, CA
Guess I better investigate how to become a sponsor, if Im going to ramble on.

PopBeavers, Next time try a mayonaise jar particialy filled with water with some food coloring in it, and with the lid on. Draw a level line around the outside of jar with a marker or paint at the water line when the jar is level. Should work pretty good.
riverrat