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  #11  
Old 04-14-2007, 09:05 AM
camp2canoe
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When you put the anode back in, you might wrap the threads with Teflon plumber's tape, available at any hardware store. It will help with the seal and may help with your next removal. - Camp2Canoe
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  #12  
Old 04-14-2007, 09:37 AM
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Is the replacement anode the correct one? You might do some research and cross check the part #'s...
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  #13  
Old 04-14-2007, 06:32 PM
2kids2dogs-n-us
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Well... we tried all the above suggestions, and still couldn't get it all of the way in. I believe it is the right part number. In my Suburban water heater instructions, it only shows one part number for the anode which is 231624. It looks just like the old one too, so we'll see if it leaks when we start flushing the tanks. Thanks for all of the suggestions.

One last question... was the old one supposed to look like that? Having never changed one before, we were shocked at what it looked like, and how there was almost nothing left of it.

Thanks again,
Shannon
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  #14  
Old 04-14-2007, 07:45 PM
Freedom
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That is the whole idea behind having the anode - it dissolves instead of your heater tank being eaten away. Water and dissimilar metals don't get along and pretty soon electrolysis sets in and the "weakest" (softest) metal is the one that suffers. By having an anode to eat away the electrolytic action is minimized on the aluminum water tank.
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  #15  
Old 04-14-2007, 08:25 PM
mike-rm-cd
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In Mesa, AZ this last Feb, a fix-it guy used a teflon-lubricant-grease sort of stuff to replace our P/T valve. He said that it didn't freeze up the valve for its next removal. He was against using teflon tape (which - my opinion-is great stuff) because it did freeze fixtures/valves, etc.

It sounds like yours is a "clean the threads, use the right lubricant" problem.
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  #16  
Old 04-14-2007, 09:34 PM
Freedom
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You can get that "teflon-lubricant-grease sort of stuff" at Lowe's or Home Depot. It's called "Oatey Great White Pipe Joint Compound with Teflon" in the plumbing department. The reason a lot of places have quit using the tape is that it makes it too easy to over-torque a fitting and cause the fitting to crack. In the Air Force we were banned from using it back in about 1987. I have replaced many brass fittings that had cracked for that exact reason. It also has a tendency to shred when you screw in the fitting and the pieces get into delicate hydraulic systems.
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  #17  
Old 04-15-2007, 08:21 AM
mtnguy
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If you use the teflon tape or lubricant compound, and tighten it down until in gets hard to turn, you probably have it tightened correctly. I still have that 1/8 to 1/4 of threads showing on my anode rod,and it doesn't leak. Pipe threads are somewhat tapered, so they are not meant to tighten down until you don't see threads any more. With that size socket, it is very easy to over torque.
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  #18  
Old 04-15-2007, 09:04 AM
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[QUOTE=2kids2dogs-n-us;35985]One last question... was the old one supposed to look like that? Having never changed one before, we were shocked at what it looked like, and how there was almost nothing left of it.

FYI
I too was also amazed with how little of the anode was still left when I changed it out. To answer your question though, check out the picture I took a while ago. But as someone else already said - this is what the anode is supposed to do. I need to go ahead and check mine again to see what has happened in two years.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=4811

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  #19  
Old 04-15-2007, 11:56 AM
jellis
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Just a couple of comments:
1) In answer to George and Wendy's original question, at least some of the models come with a single 40-gallon tank as an option (not an additional 20-gallon tank). That's what we ordered on our 3124KB. It's really great when you combine it with a mod to enable filling from the bottom without opening the trailer. Ours is a simple tee into the fill tube connected to a garden hose section I ran through the floor under the sofa. The 40-gallon tank supplied two of us (plus visitors) with water for four days last summer and included two showers each; although my recollection is that I may have added just a little to make sure I had enough water for the final shower. The chief problem with this arrangement is that the gray water tank obviously will not hold an entire fill-up from the 40-gallon tank. A small inconvenience, given the value of the larger tank. I have not pulled a full tank of water on the road, so can't comment on the extra weight, effect on stability, etc. It is quite a bit forward of the axle, so it's better to fill the tank after arriving close to your campsite.

2) Regarding freezing of the lines: we recently took delivery a new 3124KB which had a small, intermittent water leak under the sofa. I'll spare you the details of the problem here, but the point is that while the dealer had the unit
in for repairs, additional leaks became evident and the sink faucet split. This has all the marks of water freezing in the lines. The dealer said they had drained the lines and they have always been dependable in the past. On corporate airplanes, we blow the lines out with compressed air to purge the lines when there is a chance of them freezing. That's what I do at home with a small compressor and I have never had a problem.

Incidentally, we stopped by the factory on a trip to the area last week.
They fixed everything and some additional small items, all at no charge. These are very good people, trying hard to give good customer service.
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