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  #1  
Old 08-31-2004, 08:56 PM
amp17408
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Question Water Tanks ?

From the literature that I have, it states that the TM's have a 20 gallon fresh water tank, 30 gallon gray. Somewhere I read that the 26 ft. TM has a 40 gallon fresh water tank. And in some of the "for sale" ads I found, they mention a 30 gallon water tank in some of them.

Does anyone know if the different size TM's offer different size water tanks?
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  #2  
Old 08-31-2004, 09:04 PM
mjlaupp mjlaupp is offline
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20 gallon is the standard tank size. Some TMs have an optional 2nd 20 gallon tank for a total of 40 gallons. 30 gallons could possibly be the total water on board counting the 6 gallon water heater, the 20 gallon fresh water tank and the associated plumbing. The older TMs had a 12 gallon tank standard.
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  #3  
Old 09-04-2004, 04:31 PM
doonboggle
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Default Drain petcocks??

Just crawled under my unit since getting it several days ago. Wanted to familiarize myself with it some more. Noticed 3 drain petcocks and wondering what they service.
Two of them are located at the area where the gray/black outlet is located. The other one is up forward more under the area of the fresh water tank and hw heater.

I presume the last one referred to is to drain the fresh water tank since it is in the same area as the hw heater. Is this correct? Also, noted the hw heater's drain plug appears to have been permanently installed; with teflon tape and now rust. In my former rv van, it's hw tank was drained by removal of this plug. Wondering, before I do something wrong, if this plug should be removed and serviced. At the same time, does or does not the petcock drain I refer to drain both units; ie, the fresh and hw heater????

Then, what are the 2 towards the back adjacent to the drainage pipes serving?

Thanks
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  #4  
Old 09-04-2004, 08:21 PM
doonboggle
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Default Petcocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas_Camper
The TM is designed for quick and easy winterizing. My 2002 2619 has 4 petcocks. Two up front and two at the rear near the screwjack. One at the front empties the 20 gal fresh water tank. The other one empties the water from the plumbing ( fresh water from the "high pressure camp water connection". The two at the rear empty the remainder of the water in the hot and cold water pipes. This is what TM calls the low point drain system. To empty water from ALL my pipes, I simply go inside the trailer, open the hot and cold faucets in the kitchen, bathroom lavatory and bath tub. This prevents a vacuum and lets the water drain freely. Now I go outside and open the front petcock and hot and cold water begin flowing. Then I open the 2 rear petcocks, open the hot and cold faucets at the outside shower and watch as the remainder of the hot and cold water in the pipes drain.
If you're draining the pipes for winterizing, you need to remove the hand held faucet from the outside shower and stow in your garage or home, so It wont freeze, and add a little anti-freeze to the kitchen, bathroom lavatory and bath tub drains. That's all there is to winterizing. I think. And if I've left something out, some one will come along and tell us what I missed.
The water heater has an annode rod that needs replacing on a regular basis, It takes a 1 1/4 inch socket to remove this. When you remove it, you will also get some water draining from the heater.
Since the 2720 has different plumbing runs than the 2619, perhaps some one else has better info on the 2720
hope this helps


Thanks: So far I've only found 3 valves on my 2720sl. The water tank is underneath the kitchen sink rather than the couch like my instructions booklet states ... and I presume the other 2 valves I mentioned in my posting are the low point drains you mentioned.

Will have to get back under there tomorrow and squirm around some more to see if I can find the 4th one. Not that much fun what with a recent back operation.

In the meantime, any ideas on the hw plug I mentioned before. Think it should come out for draining... as the last one on my other rig??? Not sure because as I mentioned, it has teflon tape around it and looks like it has never been removed ... as in rusted threads.
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  #5  
Old 09-08-2004, 10:24 AM
hal
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When it comes to winterizing the TM, there are many people who take extra precautions and do far more than I do. I have had no problems in Colorado winters by just opening all faucets and then the four drains. If you have an outdoor shower, you can remove the head. This should take care of the hot water heater, the water storage and the water pipes Because of a fear of freezing experiences of other owners I am going a bit further. For example I will run the water pump with all faucets open to expell any water that may remain inside the pump. Some run consumable antifreeze into their system. As to taking the plumbing apart where possible, I feel this is beyond the call of duty. Above all, there seems to be a number of people having pipes freezing as a result of not draining the shower system. This repair is more difficult due to the fact, the break is less accessible.

Any hot water heater plugs are more difficult to remove. Just by their nature of being recessed and as you pointed out "welded on" by age it takes a socket (1 11/16") and a strong arm to get it to turn. You may even need a cheater on the end of your socket handle. Every couple of years, you should loosen this plug to examine the anode rod. This also may prevent its being welded to the water heater threads. If the rod appears badly pitted with huge areas missing, this might be a good time to replace it. A new rod will cost about $10.00. As for removing this plug to drain the heater, I don't think that if you have done the above mentioned draining, that you will get much water out of the tank. But as I said, there are many possibilities ofthings you can do to to winterize your TM, so if you think something worked before I am not recommending that you do it any differently.

Hal
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  #6  
Old 09-08-2004, 01:08 PM
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Denny_A Denny_A is offline
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Default Socket 1-1/16"

Quote:
Originally Posted by hal
-----------snip------------
Any hot water heater plugs are more difficult to remove. Just by their nature of being recessed and as you pointed out "welded on" by age it takes a socket (1 11/16") and a strong arm to get it to turn.
Hal
Small, inconsequential point Hal. The required socket is 1-1/16". As chance would have it, I bought a socket yesterday and changed the anode.

BTW, it was quite pitted. But after 2 yrs, not too bad. It is recommended by Suburban that the hot water tank be drained when not in use. Otherwise deterioration may be accelerated. I have adhered to that advice since purchasing my TM new.

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  #7  
Old 09-08-2004, 04:12 PM
doonboggle
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Default HW plug

Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny_A
Small, inconsequential point Hal. The required socket is 1-1/16". As chance would have it, I bought a socket yesterday and changed the anode.

BTW, it was quite pitted. But after 2 yrs, not too bad. It is recommended by Suburban that the hot water tank be drained when not in use. Otherwise deterioration may be accelerated. I have adhered to that advice since purchasing my TM new.

Denny_A

As I said in my earlier posting, the plug in my 98 unit displays lots of rust; along with some teflon tape. In a rv we had earlier, it also had the same type of plug that I removed to drain the tank for winter. With this TM unit, I have 2 remaining questions.........

#1. Does the drain plugs under the TM, have now found all four (4), actually drain the HW tank also????

#2. In the former rv, when I removed it's plug, it 'apparently' sheared off any anode rod or whatever ... as it came out as merely a plug. HW heater appeared to work ok. But am wondering what that would cause, if'n the same thing occurred here with the TM. Should I remove the plug and chance it shearing off; or leave it alone? What importance is the so-called anode rod? Will my HW heater freeze up if I don't drain it accordingly?

Wow! That's more than 2. Sorry about that.
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  #8  
Old 09-08-2004, 04:17 PM
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Bill Bill is offline
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Doon -

With regard to your question #1:
Yes, that is all it takes to drain the water heater. You don't need to install a bypass, or remove the plug, or anything else.
You can see a diagram of the water system at
http://members.cox.net/wjeffrey/Trai...ingDiagram.gif
It's really quite simple, but this diagram makes it more understandable.

With regard to your question #2:
The manufacturers' web sites are really a good source of information - you should check them. Your answer is in the manufacturer's FAQ, questions 4 and 8, at
http://www.rvcomfort.com/suburban/se..._questions.php.
What it tells you is that some water heaters have a drain plug that is simply a plug. Nothing else. Sounds like you had one of those in your previous RV. By contrast, the Suburban water heater used in the TM combines the anode rod and the drain plug.
It IS a good idea to pull the anode rod occasionally and flush the sediment out of the tank - but this has nothing to do with draining or freezeproofing.

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  #9  
Old 04-13-2007, 09:33 PM
2kids2dogs-n-us
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Question anode rod question

Hi everyone,

We bought a 2002 TM 3023 last May (2006). We used it a few times last summer, and now we're doing some maintenance on it to get it ready for the season. We went to Camping World and bought a new anode rod. We came home and removed the old one, which there was hardly anything left of it. Compared to the new one, the rod part looked as thin as a piece of spaghetti, and was covered in white corrosion. We took an old tooth brush to the part the new anode would thread into to remove the corrosion there. We are still having a hard time getting the new anode rod to thread all the way in. We have about 1/4 to 1/8 inch more to go, but don't want to force it. We're stopping for the night, and will tackle it again in the morning. Anyone else had this problem? Any suggetstions how we can get it all of the way in without causing damage?

Thanks for your help,
Shannon
'02 3023 and Ford F250 superduty
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  #10  
Old 04-14-2007, 04:11 AM
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Leslie & Nick Leslie & Nick is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2kids2dogs-n-us View Post
Hi everyone,

We have about 1/4 to 1/8 inch more to go, but don't want to force it. We're stopping for the night, and will tackle it again in the morning. Anyone else had this problem? Any suggetstions how we can get it all of the way in without causing damage?
I replaced the anode some time ago, but I don't recall a problem screwing it back in place. You might have the new anode screwed in as far as it can go (?) Or, there could be additional corrosion on the threads that you can't readily see. You might try using a small brass bristled brush. The brass is stiff, but won't damage the water heater threads. Ater having another go at cleaning the threads, I would connect the water supply and just see if it leaks at the anode.

Nick
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