Couple Questions on Recently Purchased 2019 2720QD

[Axeman]

First of all, a big thanks to those of you on this forum who helped us with questions we had during our search for a Trailmanor. We set out late last year looking for a later model 2720SL, preferably built while the factory was still in Tennessee. We became a bit frustrated and impatient after several units we were interested in were quickly sold to others before we could make a deal. So, we started looking at 2019 models that had been discounted by the dealers. Through a series of events in early March, we were put in contact with Bob Eickhoff at Trailmanor who offered us what we felt was a very good price on the last remaining 2019 they had at the factory – a 2720SD. Not exactly the model we were looking for, but close, and we’ve found that it probably fits our situation better anyway.

So far, we’ve made 4 fairly short duration trips with it and are learning something new each trip. Overall, we’re very pleased. Most of the issues we ran into initially were due to our inexperience with the unit and turned out not to be problems. A couple of real issues we experienced were the A/C unit not blowing cold air and a couple small ceiling leaks. The outside air temp was too cold to test the A/C when we picked up the TM, but we’ve since had the unit replaced under warranty. We’re still troubleshooting the ceiling leaks, which we just discovered on our last trip.

A couple questions that I would appreciate your insight or assistance on.

I would really like to use a WDH. I know there is a great deal of info on this forum about the topic, but I’m wondering if the 2019 setup may be different than earlier models because I’m having a hard time seeing where there’s room on the street side frame to fit the snap up bracket. I contacted Reese tech support about a model I was interested in (Pro Series 49586) and was told the bracket needs to be mounted 28 ¾” back from the center of the coupler. As you can see in the first photo (looking down at the street side of the A-frame), that’s not going to work because it’s almost dead center on top of the bolt for the safety cable. The emergency breakaway brake switch is mounted almost immediately behind that (second photo), so I’m trying to determine if there’s a WDH that will work as things are currently configured on the frame or if I need to relocate the breakaway switch to create some space. I’m going to contact TM for their thoughts, but would definitely be interested in any insight you may have.

Bill – I think I read a recent post indicating that you still had screen door kits available. Is that accurate? One of the first things my wife mentioned on our maiden voyage is that she would love to have a screen door on the TM. Please let me know.

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide.

Todd

[Larryjb]

In the back of my mind, somewhere among the dust bunnies there, I recall a discussion on this forum about the very issue you describe. I think. Trailmanor now makes a swing hitch standard, and some one here was trying to find where to mount the WDH on the trailer frame.

I'm not at my desktop to search and see if I can find the thread, but maybe some one here remembers the thread.

[Larryjb]

Not a TM forum, but this may help:
https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...ributing-hitch

By the way, we just love our SD. We find it very practical for a family.

[Bill]

You really don't need a WDH on your Ram 1500, especially with the long cab. Nonetheless, I understand your desire to use one. I bought one for my 2002 Explorer V-8, then continued to use it on my 2008 Explorer just because I had it, and then used it on my 2014 F-150 for the same reason. A couple years ago, I sold the hitch with my TM-of-the-moment, then did a 3000 mile trip without one this year, and noticed no need for one. My current plan is not to replace it.

It is easy to relocate the breakaway switch if you need to. Just be sure the cable is free and can't snag on anything. Incidentally, the breakaway switch always seems to be installed in a tilted-down position - I'm not sure why unless it is to keep water out. I have always re-oriented mine to point slightly upward. That lets me route the cable above the A-frame and hitch area, rather than looping downward where it could snag on something below it, such as a safety cable or a tree branch or a dirt hummock.

The big question is the safety cables/chains. I think (you need to confirm) that the brackets are not very deep, top-to-bottom, and may fit above the cable bolts. I just know I had no trouble with my cable bolts. I know I hate the cables, but that is a different issue.

Yes, I am still making screen doors available. I'll send you some info by email later today.

Bill

[Axeman]

Thanks for the link, info and input. It’s helpful. I agree, I probably don’t need a WDH and it may be a better idea to focus on more efficient selection of what we pack and more effective packing in the TV and TM. On a recent trip I weighed the rig on a CAT scale and while none of the axles were over the GAWR, I was within 80 lbs. of the GVWR. The rear axle of the TV had 600 lbs. more on it than the front axle and there was quite a bit of squat. The TM axle was 1,900 lbs. under it’s limit. We need to take less stuff, pack less of it in the bed/rear seat of the TV and pack more of it (appropriately) in the TM.

Thanks again. And thanks for making the screen kit available Bill.

[Shane826]

When you weigh on a CAT scale you need to check weights with and without the camper hooked up. If you use a WDH, you take a 3rd set of readings with the WDH set up. That’s the only way to know how much weight is lifted off the front axle, and how much a WDH moves weight between axles.

[Axeman]

That makes sense. Thanks Shane. So far, I've only weighed the TV/TM hitched up and the TM by itself. Would be good to know weights of the loaded, but unhitched TV, but didn't have the time on that trip.