Hold-down latch and shell trim pulling away from front shell

Is the attached photo indication that the latch/stirrup movement has caused separation of the latch from the sidewall? It looks like a rather amateurish repair attempt.
Question 2: on photo ....299 what is supposed to be in the two holes shown?

[Bill]

EAKlebe -

I moved your post into this thread, since it is already discussing the same topic.

It looks to me like the "repair" isn't really a repair - it is a band-aid at best, and does not address the real problem. And the real problem is that the wall is pulling apart. You need to address this. This thread has linked to similar pictures and repairs.

In your third photo, it almost looks like the wall is bent downward. What year is your TM?

Bill

Originally Posted by EAKlebe

Question 2: on photo ....299 what is supposed to be in the two holes shown?

I am not sure but perhaps those two holes formerly held the pop rivets for an awning support bracket. Do you have two sets of those holes on the front shell curb side?

[commodor47]

Originally Posted by EAKlebe

. . . what is supposed to be in the two holes shown?

The two holes are where the baggage door catch should be attached. It secures the entry door when opened.

http://www.rvadenver.com/latches_and_fasteners.htm

Scroll down to items #E211, #E213, #E214

Dick

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by EAKlebe

Is the attached photo indication that the latch/stirrup movement has caused separation of the latch from the sidewall? It looks like a rather amateurish repair attempt.
Question 2: on photo ....299 what is supposed to be in the two holes shown?

These pictures seem to indicate that someone may have used larger screws and found good, solid wood to screw into. However, there seems to be a couple of problems here.

1. The "catch" (or stirrup) seems to be grossly over tightened.
2. The molding running along the lower edge of the shell (fore & aft of the catch) appears to have left a gap after tightening the catch (maybe because the aluminum molding stretched). It looks like someone decided to fill the gap with caulking, instead of screwing the molding back up where it belongs.

The second item might be an indication there there may have been wood rot and the screws that pull the molding up to the frame may not have held.

The correct way to fix that would be to remove the catch and molding, scrape off all the caulking (pray that 3M 5200 was not used), check for wood-rot. Then repair what needs to be repaired and put everything back the way it was. You may have to cut away some of the molding, if it's stretched.

The problem with wood-rot is that it ONLY gets worse. It seldom stays stagnant and never gets better on it's own. Wood-rot is a living organism and it continues to spread (like cancer) until it totally destroys it's host (like cancer).

Your 3rd picture just appears that someone went along and over-tightened the molding fasteners on that shell. Who knows why????? Maybe someone found that the short screws couldn't find good wood.....maybe someone just got over zealust.......might be worth removing some screws and and having a look.

The good news is, the lower frame wood is not hard to replace. Worst case scenario (all lower frame wood is rotting), you have a full weekend job on each side of the trailer (4-days total).

Originally Posted by harveyrv

These pictures seem to indicate that someone may have used larger screws and found good, solid wood to screw into. However, there seems to be a couple of problems here.

1. The "catch" (or stirrup) seems to be grossly over tightened.
2. The molding running along the lower edge of the shell (fore & aft of the catch) appears to have left a gap after tightening the catch (maybe because the aluminum molding stretched). It looks like someone decided to fill the gap with caulking, instead of screwing the molding back up where it belongs.

The second item might be an indication there there may have been wood rot and the screws that pull the molding up to the frame may not have held.

The correct way to fix that would be to remove the catch and molding, scrape off all the caulking (pray that 3M 5200 was not used), check for wood-rot. Then repair what needs to be repaired and put everything back the way it was. You may have to cut away some of the molding, if it's stretched.

The problem with wood-rot is that it ONLY gets worse. It seldom stays stagnant and never gets better on it's own. Wood-rot is a living organism and it continues to spread (like cancer) until it totally destroys it's host (like cancer).

Your 3rd picture just appears that someone went along and over-tightened the molding fasteners on that shell. Who knows why????? Maybe someone found that the short screws couldn't find good wood.....maybe someone just got over zealust.......might be worth removing some screws and and having a look.

The good news is, the lower frame wood is not hard to replace. Worst case scenario (all lower frame wood is rotting), you have a full weekend job on each side of the trailer (4-days total).

I think I have a full weekend job on my hands: on the road side, the vertical molding on the front shell looked a bit FUNNY to me, so I did some more investigating and found that that vertical molding had indeed let go, the subsequent gap was merely filled in with a bead of silicon caulk, but the bottom two screws are NOT holding anyway and when I reached under the molding, it was obvious wood rot. Is there anyplace where I can see a "deskined" image of the shell construction?

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by EAKlebe

I think I have a full weekend job on my hands: on the road side, the vertical molding on the front shell looked a bit FUNNY to me, so I did some more investigating and found that that vertical molding had indeed let go, the subsequent gap was merely filled in with a bead of silicon caulk, but the bottom two screws are NOT holding anyway and when I reached under the molding, it was obvious wood rot. Is there anyplace where I can see a "deskined" image of the shell construction?

This picture is the best that I can do. I cut a hole through the side of my '98 TM to install an AC unit (the trailer didn't have AC before). In the picture, you can see the wood frame (it has some residual Styrofoam on it). What I neglected to take a picture of was the piece that I cut out. It was simply 2 thin skins of aircraft aluminum with Styrofoam sandwiched in between. Super light but super strong (when coupled with the frame).

I think there is a video on the TM website that shows the way that they lay it up. I know that I saw that video somewhere.

EDIT>>>>>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtjkIY202zc

It seems to me that they laid 1 sheet of aluminum on a flat surface and sprayed it with an epoxy coating. Then they laid the pre-constructed frame on the coated aluminum and filled the voids with Styrofoam. They spayed that assembly with adhesive, then laid the top layer of aluminum on that. I'm not sure if they weighted/clamped the assembly or vacuum bagged it or both.

At the bottom of the assembled wall, they leave an over-lap of about 1" of aluminum. They fold those 2 pieces of aluminum over the bottom of the frame so that they over-lap each other. Then they run about 100 staples down the length of the fold to secure the aluminum to the frame and prevent water intrusion. I may be all wet on this but I think that gives you the general idea.

If I were to tackle this repair, I would remove the molding and all of the hardware on the bottom. Pull out all of the staples and carefully unfold the aluminum. I may even clamp the sides together with clamps and 1x4s or something to avoid bending the outer skin when I bend the lower folds out.

After determining the extent of the rot, I would use a thin sharp blade (like a fish fillet knife) to separate the aluminum skin from the rotted wood. I would cut out the entire length of the rotted wood (no more...no less).

Here comes the tricky part. I would "Scarf" in a new piece of wood that has been pre-coated with epoxy resin.

Cut the new piece of wood to the exact fit and cut the ends at a 60 degree angle (just as you cut out the old piece). Work with the fit until it fits nice and even. The existing frame should be cut like this "/" on one side and this "\" on the other side. The new piece should be cut the opposite so that the angled pieces fit together neatly. Pre-drill the new angled piece (at an intersecting angle) so that a #6 wood screw will fit loosely through the hole (do this to both ends and where any other frames intersect this new frame piece). Put the new piece in place and drill a 1/8" hole into the old frame (through the new holes). Do one at a time and install a screw in each hole as you go (to hold it in place) If there are intersecting frames, start from the middle and work out.

After your new piece is prepared and fitted, take it out and coat the entire piece with epoxy resin, including all intersecting parts and contacting aluminum. Screw the new piece in place (you should have about 20 minutes of working time on a 72* day). Cover the surfaces on both sides with wax paper (to avoid sticking to your clamping materials). Clamp the aluminum in place using long pieces of 1x4s on each side and several clamps. Let it cure for 24 hours minimum. fold your end pieces of aluminum back in place and staple or screw along the edge. Replace all the hardware.

It probably sounds a lot more difficult than it really is. Once you've done something like this, it's really easy. Just take your time and try your best not to wrinkle or dent the outside skin when bending or clamping. The finished job should be as strong as new.

If I screwed up on these instructions, I feel confident that someone will correct me. I know that there are a few people on this forum that have completed this repair..........I just thought that I would get the ball rolling for you

[MariaG]

Originally Posted by EAKlebe

... obvious wood rot. Is there anyplace where I can see a "deskined" image of the shell construction?

If you click on my blog address in my signature below, you'll see how we replaced the wood in our 1986 TM. I'm not sure what year you have (it would help if you added such info to your signature, btw) or if the construction is exactly the same, but it may give you an idea of what you're getting into.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by MariaG

If you click on my blog address in my signature below, you'll see how we replaced the wood in our 1986 TM. I'm not sure what year you have (it would help if you added such info to your signature, btw) or if the construction is exactly the same, but it may give you an idea of what you're getting into.

Now that is down-right depressing........

Excuse me while I go out and re-caulk all my seems.......

[MariaG]

It could have been worse - the walls could have fallen off on the way home from the sellers. And we did get it for not a lot of money, which was a huge plus.