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11-08-2010, 06:46 AM
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#11
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ada, OH
Posts: 254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harveyrv
At the moment, I have a single group 27 battery that came with the camper. I have 2 new Trojan T105s sitting here, ready to go in. I'm just waiting for my new battery box. I already cut out the floor in the rear compartment. It's amazing how little more footprint the 2, Trojans take than the single group 27.
The only thing I haven't quite worked out is how to get those 2, 63# batteries in the battery box in the rear compartment without killing my back..............ain't campin' fun?????
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I've been thinking about that too. I have a friend who has an engine hoist, something like this one from Harbor Freight. I think it would make the job a piece of cake...
Keith
__________________
Keith and Kathy
'07 Explorer 4.6 V-8 - '07 2720SL
Equal-i-zer 1000 - Prodigy - McKesh
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11-08-2010, 09:08 AM
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#12
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Wire
I've been thinking about that too. I have a friend who has an engine hoist, something like this one from Harbor Freight. I think it would make the job a piece of cake...
Keith
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Yep......that would do it.......I'm thinking a little lower tech.
__________________
TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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11-08-2010, 11:02 AM
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#13
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Big Bend area, Florida
Posts: 2,120
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battery location
Has anyone considered placing the batteries under the coach in the front slide on the 2720 SL. I called the factory today and could not get a weight limit, the rollers are rated for 250# each according to the factory. Been thinking about a better battery location and since that front storage is about useless thought that would be a good location. easy to get at for battery servicing. wiring it up maybe another issue
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11-08-2010, 12:44 PM
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#14
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrubjaysnest
Has anyone considered placing the batteries under the coach in the front slide on the 2720 SL. I called the factory today and could not get a weight limit, the rollers are rated for 250# each according to the factory. Been thinking about a better battery location and since that front storage is about useless thought that would be a good location. easy to get at for battery servicing. wiring it up maybe another issue
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It would have a huge effect on your tongue weight.
If you have 2 golf cart batteries @ ~125# in the rear, they subtract ~50-75# from the tongue weight. If you shift the batteries forward, you would add most of the weight of the batteries (~80-100#) plus the 50-75# that you lose when you take them out of the rear cabinet. That would add ~ 130-175# to your tongue weight. That may not be a good idea for a variety of reasons.
It would also make the slide-out much harder to pull out and add wear & tear to the friction points.
As far as the solar system is concerned, having the batteries in the rear cabinet is a definite advantage. It keeps the panels out of the shadow of the A/C unit and makes the wiring run shorter and neater. The short run to the converter is also a bonus. The long run from the TV alternator to the batteries is a totally different issue but I think that the solar may help supplement that (on most days).
__________________
TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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11-08-2010, 03:09 PM
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#15
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
The panels are mounted on the rear roof, very close to the rear edge of the front roof (when closed). When you push the rear shell forward, to begin closing down, do the panels rub the bag seals on the front roof at all?
Bill
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OK....... to answer this question correctly now........
When the roofs are up, the solar panels are about 6' back from the rear seal of the front shell. When we close down, the panels are all the way down and forward of the front shell and never even come close..The picture (in post #4) was taken with the shells closed and the panels are 2-3" away at that point.......(that's what generated that thought).
You had me going there for awhile....... It was a good question though....it kept me awake for awhile last night.
__________________
TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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11-09-2010, 06:02 PM
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#16
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Big Bend area, Florida
Posts: 2,120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harveyrv
As far as the solar system is concerned, having the batteries in the rear cabinet is a definite advantage. It keeps the panels out of the shadow of the A/C unit and makes the wiring run shorter and neater. The short run to the converter is also a bonus. The long run from the TV alternator to the batteries is a totally different issue but I think that the solar may help supplement that (on most days).
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We won't be installing the panels on the roof. Living in Florida the first thing we do is look for a camp site in full shade. The panels will be set up at varing distances from the TM based on sun location. That will mean different gauge wire for different runs to offset I/R losses. Our camping is over 90% boondocking. We don't take a generator because of the noise.
__________________
Axis 24.1 E 450 chassis, 6 spd tranny. GVWR 14500# GVCWR 22000 # GW(scales) 12400 #
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
mods: 2- 100 watt solar panels, on roof, 300 watts portable
“They who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Benjamin Franklin
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11-09-2010, 06:10 PM
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#17
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harveyrv
When the roofs are up, the solar panels are about 6' back from the rear seal of the front shell. When we close down, the panels are all the way down and forward of the front shell and never even come close..The picture (in post #4) was taken with the shells closed and the panels are 2-3" away at that point.......(that's what generated that thought).
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Gotcha! Thank you Wayne. As you deduced, I misinterpreted what I was seeing in the picture.
Bill
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11-09-2010, 06:48 PM
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#18
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harveyrv
The only thing I haven't quite worked out is how to get those 2, 63# batteries in the battery box in the rear compartment without killing my back..............ain't campin' fun?????
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The easiest and simplest way I have found to do this is using this handy battery lifting strap, apparently designed specifically for Trojan batteries:
http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/prod...A%20UNV%201001
It hooks into the brackets molded into the battery case, and enables you to lift out the batteries with ease. A dealer gave me one when I bought my batteries, and it works fantastic. Works especially well when lowering/raising batteries in/out of a case because the attachment points are on top of the battery compared to some battery carriers that grip the sides.
If you lower the tongue as far as you can, or park the trailer facing uphill, you will have alot more room to get into that cabinet for this purpose.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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11-09-2010, 07:17 PM
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#20
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,256
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Bill - Do you think carrying a battery by its terminal posts could stress the connection to the plates? There wouldn't be anything restricting terminal movement other than the plastic case.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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