Cell Booster Install - Page 3

**Deb Mac** · 09-06-2023, 06:55 PM

Yep. That’s what I figure. Since those lights each have a switch on them, WHY do they have another switch somewhere that no one would think to look for?

Got to do some re-wiring tomorrow and start again…. Sigh

**Bill** · 09-06-2023, 07:22 PM

The reason, of course, is so that you can turn off the lights without bothering anyone who may be sleeping in the front bed or pull-out couch. Somehow, the presence of the switch should be made more obvious.

In new TMs, there is an All Lights Off rocker switch just to the left as you enter the trailer. When our trailer was new, I panicked when none of the interior lights would come on. I have come to love that switch, but it was a little tense for a while.

Bill

**Deb Mac** · 09-06-2023, 07:44 PM

Well now that makes sense! I guess as a solo traveler, that would never occur to me. But it is logical.
Neither of my little lights is working. One is in pieces and the other has no bulb. I think I might just replace them since one has broken innards. But that’s another project for farther down the road.

**Bill** · 09-07-2023, 06:36 AM

In earlier years, those little lights had fixtures that were derisively called "elegant lights". They were sconce light with the shade clamped to the bulb, and the vibration of traveling of course broke the bulb and socket. Terrible. They looked great in advertising photos at the time. But the shades fell off, the bulbs broke, the sockets broke, the switches didn't work - you get the picture. If you have those lights, you would be well off to take them out and install something better. Eyeball fixtures were used for a while. Now I think there are flat fixtures. Anything other than "elegant".

Bill

**Deb Mac** · 09-07-2023, 09:50 AM

Mine are the eyeball "brass" fixtures. They do look nice, I like being able to direct the light, and I wouldn't mind them at all, if one of them hadn't "sproinged" it's innards. I would be happy to keep them, or something similar, with LED bulbs though.
Had same kind of thing in the old GMC motorhome - with halogen bulbs! That metal housing could get HOT!! I put LEDs everywhere I could find a spot to stick them. Same with the Bigfoot (trailer before this one)

Guess I'll go light shopping.

**Deb Mac** · 09-07-2023, 02:08 PM

Popped the multimeter on the wires and flipped that toggle switch. 13.69V. Wired the 12V adapter back in, hit the switch again and everything is now good! Planning to store the indoor antenna and the power line inside that cabinet when not in use, and run the wires under the velcro flaps to the spot on that fridge wall where I am going to mount the amplifier bracket.
I did the measurements and the slide-out has ample room to close with the bracket in place, though not the amplifier itself. I’ll pop the amplifier in and out as I need it, and stick it in the sock drawer or somewhere when I don’t.

I have discovered that the speaker on that side doesn’t work. Nothing I did, since it looks like someone previously cut the power to it. Why? Probably doesn’t work properly (why would that be a surprise?). The splice connector in both the hot and ground wires had a cut off wire in them, with the only wire left going to the light fixture. Won’t know what’s actually going on back there without pulling the speaker. My head is too fat to fit inside the cabinet and really get a proper look.

I will go back in at some point (probably when I wire in the new lights) and reconnect the speaker. And see if it works…. A trip to Home Depot for a few meters of 12 and/or 14 gauge wire is in order. Always nice to have lying around

So a lot of the project done. Waiting on the flexible conduit to arrive to run the outdoor antenna wire from the battery bay, under the trailer and in through the space behind the fridge.

**Bill** · 09-07-2023, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DebMac

I have discovered that the speaker on that side doesn’t work. Nothing I did, since it looks like someone previously cut the power to it. ... The splice connector in both the hot and ground wires had a cut off wire in them, with the only wire left going to the light fixture.

Wait a minute - I'm confused. A speaker does not have 12-volt power going to it. If you put 12-volt power on a speaker, it will instantly turn to toast.

A speaker has two wires going to it, which carry the audio from your radio (or whatever audio source you are running). The wires are audio hot and audio ground. Power also has two wires, +12 volt hot and 12 volt ground.

The grounds are intentionally connected in the system. But the two hots must be completely isolated from each other. It sounds like someone tried to splice them together.

Bill

**Deb Mac** · 09-07-2023, 06:29 PM

That may be why it doesn’t work! Don’t know about the splice connectors or what the cut wires may have gone to or from. Maybe the speaker packed it in and they disconnected it to stop static…
I’ll be behind there this weekend and see what’s what.

Seems to me I recall reading in another thread about wiring external speakers, that someone found both R & L speaker outputs going to one speaker, or it was wired with just one output going to both…can’t remember. I’ll have to look that one up again.

**Deb Mac** · 09-07-2023, 06:33 PM

This is the thread. ShrimpBurrito had only one speaker working…
https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ernal+speakers

**Deb Mac** · 09-08-2023, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deb Mac

This is the thread. ShrimpBurrito had only one speaker working…
https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ernal+speakers

"I will go back in at some point (probably when I wire in the new lights) and reconnect the speaker".
Based on that thread, sounds more like I may have shorted wire rather than disconnected. I'll pull the speaker and see what I can find in there, as well as check all of the wire in the "behind the fridge" bundle and the external wire loom for cuts. Hopefully something easily traced. If not, no big worry for me. I never use the speakers, so... Would just like to have everything working.