Broken door pin latch

**ShrimpBurrito** · 10-21-2007, 07:44 PM

Howdy folks -

Upon setting up my TM upon coming home from a trip, one of the door pin catches (one which catches the door and the other which catches the door jam wall) split in half right along the line between the center of the 2 screw holes.

I thought it would be an easy repair, first because it just looked like a simply piece of bended sheet metal. But problem #1 is that is has a bit of spring to it, which I wouldn't be able to replicate, and problem #2 is that the screw holes are actually stamped into the metal. The screws need to be flush with the catch so the pin can slide right past them, and the material is too thin to enable me to countersink the screw holes.

Acknowledging defeat, I still figured it wouldn't be a problem since I could just order a replacement from the factory. However, this approach hasn't immediately been successful as the replacement catches do not have the screw holes in the same spot. I don't think I can drill a new hole in the wall because it would be too close to the old hole. The replacement is also a bit shorter, although that may not be an issue if the screw holes were correctly placed.

I already contacted the factory to see if they have an "old" version of the catch, but haven't yet heard anything. Has anyone ever had one of these break? How did you fix it?

A picture of the 2 catches is attached.

Thanks,
Dave

Leslie & Nick · 10-22-2007, 07:44 AM

I can visualize the problem. Because of the hole placement, I'd say your best bet is to see if the factory can find one of the old style catches, but that might be a longshot. I'm not sure they'd have, or can find an older part like that.

If the piece was mounted on wood, and there was not much stress involved, I'd have an idea on how to fix it. But there is quite a bit of stress when you pull the pin out of the catch to close up the door and trailer. If the factory can't find the old style catch, here's what I might try. Get a thin piece of flat steel and screw into the existing holes, countersink the holes. Then screw the new style catch to the steel plate. The only problem I could see is that depending on the thickness of the steel plate, you might have trouble closing the door because of tight tolerances (???)

Another fix might be, filling the existing old screw holes with welding material then use the new catch with newly placed holes. This would be an inexpensive fix if you know someone with a small welding machine. It would only take a few minutes.

Maybe someone else has another idea on a fix, too. Let us know how you make out, as I'm sure it's only a matter of time before someone experiences the same problem, if they haven't already.

**wbmiller3** · 10-22-2007, 02:43 PM

I replaced one of mine this year. Search on "door clips" to find the thread. My holes didn't line up and it was not a fun job. Virginia Deacon posted a good suggestion for a tool that would make the task easier.

10-23-2007, 01:35 AM

The TM is aluminum skin and would need a TIG welder. The styrofoam in the area would get melted.

You couldn't weld on the clips either as the are spring steel and wouldn't be after you're done heating them.

What about drilling just the bottom hole in the clip and using the existing top one? Or, if the pin is long enough, moving the position of the clip on the TM?

**ShrimpBurrito** · 10-24-2007, 12:53 AM

Thanks for all the replies, folks. Greatly appreciated. Given that my TM is a 2000, I had assumed there was wood in the wall that held those screws in place. But when I went out to epoxy some bamboo skewers in those holes, I discovered that there is no wood in that wall, but rather a metal frame. So I simply drilled a new hole about 1/4" to the side of the old one, and being metal, am confident it will hold just fine.

I've read where several people have said that they really have to give those pins a few good hits to knock them out of the catches -- I sure do with mine. It would be nice if TM would come up with some sort of locking mechanism that doesn't require that kind of effort -- like a slide bolt latch or something. Or if they want to stick with the pin coming up out of the door, then some sort of pipe that slides on the wall and down onto the pin.

Just my thoughts.

And it is my understanding from the factory that the new clips I received are stainless steel -- a nice improvement they apparently implemented around 2003-2004.

Dave

**wbmiller3** · 10-24-2007, 04:39 PM

It seems like the new one is not as tight as the old one was. I can just tug the little panel out instead of whacking it. May just be a coincidence, though.

**ShrimpBurrito** · 10-24-2007, 06:11 PM

I have now popped mine in an out a few times, and my experience is the same, Bill. The new one is definitely not as tight.

Dave

06-24-2008, 03:13 PM

I have an issue on my 2009, 2720 with the doorjam not staying latched...the pin comes out when the door is opened. I'd just take it back to the dealer but that's a 3+ hour drive. I have tried jockying the stabilizer jacks but no help. Any Ideas?

**ShrimpBurrito** · 06-24-2008, 04:13 PM

Does the pin freely move in and out of the pin latch? If so, you might call the factory to have them send a new one with less play. If the latch already has a snug fit, it's possible one of your shells is not in the right position relative to the latch (which could also mean the shells are fine and the latch is in the wrong spot).

Dave