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07-18-2017, 04:13 PM
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#11
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,054
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Just reading this thread and tons of good ideas tossed out. Now maybe I'm not thinking this properly, but wouldn't it be easier to just wire in a switch on the outside; maybe near the fan exit hole? If the camper gets closed, all ya would have to do is flip the switch on the outside? Kind of like two switches that control one light?
Now having said all that; I will freely admit that I'm no where at the level of electrical knowledge as most you lads/ladies. If I'm thinking too simple, forgive my comments.
__________________
2013 2619
80 watt solar panel/swing hitch/low profile A/C.
Enduro 4445 caravan mover
2016 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 Hemi
Installed powered folding tow mirrors
Stopped playing with airplanes, now I just enjoy watching them fly by.
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07-18-2017, 05:18 PM
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#12
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickst29
cutting the hole through the TM "shell"
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It works fine to run a wire through the bottom and have a box and switch there. Water won't run into it, and it's easy to reach.
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07-20-2017, 07:13 AM
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#13
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yes, they hunt lions.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,324
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Ping! Bill's method is better than mine. See #9
I'm writing a post, just to cause notification to most interested persons - I edited an existing post to describe exactly how to build it (Bill's Temp-Sensor fan control).
Total time 5-15 minutes, after finding the tools. (It would take me 5 minutes, much faster than writing this.) If you want to see the temperature back there, there's probably an extra 5-10 extra minutes to cut a mounting hole through the Fridge side panel, or next to the stereo. But I wouldn't bother with doing that, because the display disrupts sleeping; and it won't behave as a true "outdoor thermometer" at most times. Full instructions: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...76&postcount=9
__________________
TM='06 2619 w/5K axle, 15" Maxxis "E" tires. Plumbing protector. 630 watts solar. 450AH LiFePO4 batteries, 3500 watt inverter. CR-1110 E-F/S fridge (compressor).
TV = 2007 4runner sport, with a 36 volt "power boost".
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03-17-2018, 06:57 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane826
Too much heat from the refrigerator vents can warp or discolor the shell wall that's folded over it. Keep in mind these refrigerators make heat to get cold.
Heres what I've done in the past when I forgot to turn on the fan or even turn on the fridge; just open the front shell and latch the aluminum bars in place. Climb up on the tongue, climb over the slide (still pushed in), then I can slither past the chair to the control panel. You have a dinette model so that may be a little more difficult but I'm guessing you're smaller than me so you should have an easier time once inside the TM.
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What did you use to clean the black soot off of the inside? I am having a difficult time removing it.
__________________
2011 2720 Loaded
2016 GMC 2500HD
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03-18-2018, 09:51 AM
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#15
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,851
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Haven’t had soot issues, at least that I’m aware of... But my fridge quit working on propane mid-fall last year. Never messed with it. Gonna look at it next month when she comes out of hibernation.
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2007/21 TM 3326 (Pride of the Fleet)
2000 2720SL (Rebuild Project)
2002 2619 (Parts TM)
SMARTER THAN GOOGLE!
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03-18-2018, 10:14 AM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,121
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Soot is generally an indication of a slow, "lazy" flame, which is the result of insufficient air. The instruction manual for your refrig describes what the flame should look like. If you have a Norcold N300.3 refrig, it is described on Page 8 of the manual, where it calls for a flame that is dark blue in the center and light blue on the outside. It goes on to say that the flame should not be yellow or flickering. It is the yellow part of the flame that causes soot, because there is not enough air to completely burn the fuel.
On some refrigerators, the amount of air is adjustable - on some it is not. I believe that the N300 is not adjustable. Either way, the important thing is to make sure that all the slots and holes and tubes are clear of dust bunnies and spider webs, since they can impede air flow.
Bill
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03-18-2018, 04:59 PM
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#17
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Somerset, OH
Posts: 1,868
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I have also forgot to turn on the fan several time and had to pop it up.
I have thought it would be nice to switch out the fan switch to a 3 way, and add a 3 way switch outside.
__________________
Art & Joyce
Current camper: Motor Home
Previous: 2009, 3023-QB and 2003 2720
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03-18-2018, 06:01 PM
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#18
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,256
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I've described my installation of a combination fridge and fridge fan switch mounted on the outside of the TM quite a few years ago.
I bought a regular household AC switch for like 50 cents and a weather resistant box that you might mount on a patio for about $10, and mounted the box on the TM frame "outrigger" (which extends outwards) directly underside the fridge. As it turns out, the fridge and fridge fan use a common hot lead, so by wiring the switch with that hot lead, you actually turn both on and off simultaneously. It makes the on/off fan switch mounted under the sink inoperable, but that's not a big deal. I can still operate the fan while the fridge is in gas mode if necessary.
I used a few inch section of a compressed air tubing to route the wire from the fridge compartment and switch box, which protects the wire from the aluminum edge around the hole, and it's also the perfect size to make a perfect seal with the box.
While we are setting up, taking down, at gas stations, restaurants, etc., I turn off the fridge. Works like a charm. It really has helped conserve battery power while stopped on the road. I like it better than a battery cut off because I still have break-away brakes if I ever forget to turn it on.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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03-19-2018, 04:50 PM
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#19
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Blandford, MA
Posts: 1,046
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Art & Joyce,
I also installed a refrigerator and fan on/off exterior switch similar to Dave's.
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=15823
Dick
__________________
Dick & Jeri in Western MA
2003 2720 SL
2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac Limited 4x4 - V8
Albums
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03-25-2018, 07:03 PM
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#20
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tentcamper
I have thought it would be nice to switch out the fan switch to a 3 way, and add a 3 way switch outside.
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I'm pretty enthusiastic about this 3-way switch solution.
If you put two switches in series, the inside switch must be ON before the outside switch will do anything. If you forget to turn on the inside switch, you are out of luck.
And if you put two switches in parallel, the inside switch must be OFF if the outside switch is to have any function. Again, if you forget to pre-set the inside switch ...
But just like the three-way light switches in your house, a three-way hookup of two fan switches, one inside and one outside, lets you turn the fan on or off, from inside or outside, without regard to the position of the other switch.
Thanks, Tentcamper.
Bill
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