PowerMover AC Trailer Dolly

[Shandysplace]

Has anyone purchased one of these to move their TM from the curb (as it appears in the Avatar above) from the front of their home into the driveway immediately behind? It's impossible for us to make this turn despite the trailer hitch on the front of our Suburban.

Not only are we unsure if we can use the dolly to successfully line up the trailer from that curbside position with the driveway close behind it, but also it appears that when the trailer is backed down so the TM wheels come in contact with curb entrance of the driveway, the street grade will lower the TM so much that the bottom of the TM will scrape the driveway (black/grey water drain appears the lowest point), but also the frame holding the propane tanks on our 3326 will probably also scrape on the driveway.

[YWORRYDOG]

I have one and could not get the TM in the garage without itl

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6722&highlight=POWERMOVER

[freein05]

I have a Power Caster trailer dolly. I also could not put my TM in the garage without it. It is a 90 degree turn and no room for the TV. You can virtually turn the TM on a dime. It also attached to the TM breaks which is real handy since my driveway has a slop. It was expensive but worth the money.

[Scott O]

They work wonderfully well, and I doubt if you would have any problem making the turn. Bottom clearance is another issue entirely. It is possible that the mounting point for the dolly could be made lower, which would raise the rear of your TM. I believe they have a 30 day return so if it didn't work... My suggestion is to talk to the guy that makes them. Don't know where you are located, but I believe he has a shop in Buena Park and San Clemente, CA.

[vnmtm1]

I broke down and bought a Powermovers AC5 this year. Although my driveway is fairly straight and I can back in the TM without issues, getting it into the garage with a few inches clearance on each side was always a back-breaking process. So, although I have not used it yet, I am really looking forward to getting the TM in and out of the garage with relative ease.

Also, I might add that dealing with Brady at Powermovers was a pleasant experience. We got on the phone and quickly figured out the right connector for my 3023. I can vouch for fast service and a solid, well-built product.

[jacob mccandles]

I have one also. I could not get it into the back yard without it. In fact I would not have a trailmanor if I did not have one.

[Shandysplace]

Thanks for all these helpful replies. We are working w/Brady at PowerMover to try and resolve the clearance issue. At this point it does appear that there is insufficient ground clearance. In the back the black/grey dump drain will hit and in the front the bottom of the propane tank frame (which is even lower) will hit.

Are any of you backing into a, how shall we say, a standard subdivision driveway entrance where the street slopes down to the entrance for drainage and then up to the sidewalk? Trying to measure this by sight it appears the vertical distance from the street to the sidewalk is about 6-8 inches. Possibly enough for the black/grey water drain to clear, but not enough for the propane tank frame to clear.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Are any of you backing into a, how shall we say, a standard subdivision driveway entrance where the street slopes down to the entrance for drainage and then up to the sidewalk? Trying to measure this by sight it appears the vertical distance from the street to the sidewalk is about 6-8 inches. Possibly enough for the black/grey water drain to clear, but not enough for the propane tank frame to clear.

I'm having trouble visualizing your setup, but if the drainage ditch in the image I have is the limiting fact, what about temporarily filling in the ditch while you move the TM in and out? A piece of heavy gauge steel to bridge across it, like the plates you see on roads covering work holes, would certainly do it. Plywood may even be a solution if you just support it underneath with wood. Sounds like you'd need at least one or two 4x4s underneath it -- I would put as much support as I can under there without raising it up. That will prevent sag which presumably is the problem to begin with.

Dave

[Bill]

I have the same problem. I keep a couple 3-foot lengths of 2X6 handy. When I need to move in and out of the driveway, I just lay them down in the lowest part of the swale (parallel to the swale, not across it like a bridge) where the wheels will cross the swale. Cheap. Easy. Works perfectly.

Bill

[Shandysplace]

We'll look into those suggestions and thanks again so much to all.

[B_and_D]

One of those would be really handy for getting into those tight campsites where it's too hard to maneuver the truck & trailer. Our truck isn't that big, but it does have a fairly large wheelbase and it makes it very difficult to make some of the turns it takes to get into many of the campsites we've come across, especially when there's all those little stumps set right along the access roads.

[Scott O]

Interesting idea except they are massively heavy. I have absolutely no idea how it could be transported...you couldn't even get it into the back of your truck!

[photoadjuster]

Could a Powermover be used to place my TM in my backyard from a dirt alley? The alley is narrow and there is no room to swing the TV. I understand the way the mover works on concrete ( I use one for my airplane) but has anyone tried it on dirt?

[moultonp]

We now own a TM3326 which is just too big to manhandle and our parking pad is tight to get in and out so I purchased this unit www.parkit360.ca and used it for the first time last night. Works like a charm, (I purchased the onboard battery unit with trickle charger) and it would be possible to travel with the unit if necessary. Likely won't do so but I suspect this is the lightest of the power trailer dollies out there. Great service and quick delivery.

[moaboy]

I take it if you don't purchase the onboard battery unit it works off the TM battery? Do you how it would connect? Ad says "quick connection" but is it via the hitch electrical connection or what?

[moultonp]

Since TM has the battery all the way at the back I didn't want to run a separate power line that far to power the dolly. I am sure you could do so.

[Scott O]

On the model I have seen and will soon be getting, the mover works on 110v from a standard outlet. The trailer brakes work on 12v, using the TM batteries for power. For those of us with batteries in the back who are unable to access them with the TM closed, a battery needs to be mounted on the mover to supply power to the TM brakes.

[ThePair]

On the model I have seen and will soon be getting, the mover works on 110v from a standard outlet. The trailer brakes work on 12v, using the TM batteries for power. For those of us with batteries in the back who are unable to access them with the TM closed, a battery needs to be mounted on the mover to supply power to the TM brakes.

Mine too. I specifically asked Brady about this: "Why not wire into the TM battery, if you're already using the 7-pin connector?" He told me that they had a few issues with insufficient voltage or whatever going to power the brakes, on occasion, when doing it that way, so for safety he settled on battery clamps for a direct connection, either to a tongue-mounted battery or to a separate 12V source for those who have rear-mounted batteries.

I would not be difficult to modify the Mover to pull power from the Bargeman, I'm just not sure I want to do it...

[rumbleweed]

I modified my power mover to use the TM battery. You simply need to move some wires around on the Bargman connector and switch box. Use a wire in the bargman cable that goes to the 12V pin to connect to where the 12V aux battery is now connected in the switch box (may have to move wires on connector). Use the ground wire to connect to where the negative of the aux battery connects in the switch box. I think the comment on using the TM battery being a liability is just that. Remember that if the TM comes loose from the TV, power for the brakes needs to come from the rear (on rear mounted batteries) up to the safety pull pin then back to the brakes. So that better not mean too much loss as the TM will be moving much faster than if you were using a PM.

[ThePair]

That's a good point, although I was under the impression that the emergency break-away switch had a direct line back to the battery, whereas the Bargeman does not. I have been seriously considering the rewire, as keeping a cheap jumper/starter battery charged all the time is annoying, to say the least, and just having the one plug (my TM battery is pretty much always charged) would be a huge boon.

I'll need to think some more. I take it you've never had an issue with your modification?

[ThePair]

I modified my power mover to use the TM battery. You simply need to move some wires around on the Bargman connector and switch box . Use a wire in the bargman cable that goes to the 12V pin to connect to where the 12V aux battery is now connected in the switch box ( may have to move wires on connector). Use the ground wire to connect to where the negative of the aux battery connects in the switch box. I think the comment on using the TM battery being a liability is just that. Remember that if the TM comes lose from the TV. Power for the brakes needs to come from the rear ( on rear mounted batteries) up to the safety pull pin then back to the brakes. So that better not mean too much loss as the TM will be moving much faster than if you were using a PM.

So, I haven't looked yet, but how does ground work in this scenario? Doesn't the Bargeman only have one ground? I'm assuming the ground from the aux battery goes to this wire already. I can bring up the line that goes to the 12v charge/battery on the TM and route it through the switch to the brake line, but I don't see how the other side is supposed to be wired. How did you do it?

Unless I'm misunderstanding something, I would think that I just need to pull the 12v and route it to the switch, and ignore the ground entirely. The brakes should already be hooked into the trailer ground, and thus to the neg. terminal on the battery, right? Flipping the switch will then complete a circuit, with the load side at the switch, and the return side internal to the TM.

FWIW, I put my voltmeter on the 7-way, and pins 4 & 1 (12v and ground) show 12+ V, as expected. To support my concept, pins 2 & 1 (brakes and 12v) also show 12+ V, thus proving completion of the circuit internally.

I'm am doing this mod prior to my next use of the powermover. I almost had an issue with my aux battery running low during use last time, and I do not want a repeat of that!

[clown9644]

You guys are making a simple issue very complex! Why not just buy some wire (#10 or 12 stranded) and connect direct to the battery and to a female plug, then you just plug your device into that line, run the camper where you want it and unplug and put it away? Rewiring harness seems a bit over kill.

[ThePair]

You guys are making a simple issue very complex! Why not just buy some wire (#10 or 12 stranded) and connect direct to the battery and to a female plug, then you just plug your device into that line, run the camper where you want it and unplug and put it away? Rewiring harness seems a bit over kill.

Battery's in the back. Rather than running a long wire, why not just strip back a little insulation and make a simple internal rewire in an easily accessible box?

Now that I've looked with my voltmeter, I really think it's as simple as pulling out one wire (12V black). We shall see...

[Bill]

I've been watching this thread, and I'm not sure why things are getting so complicated.

In the TM half of the Bargman connector, pin 6 runs directly to the TM battery, and pin 4 runs directly to the brakes. If you jumper pin 6 to pin 4, the brakes are applied. Simple. Nothing more is required. And if you put a switch in the jumper, you can turn the brakes on and off.

So go down to the RV place, buy the mating half of the Bargman (called the car end or tow vehicle end), connect a short wire from pin 6 to one side of a switch, and another wire from pin 4 of the switch, and mount the switch on your power mover. I'm sure that the 12VDC version of the power mover often comes equipped this way. Yes, the wires are long, but as Clown9644 points out, if they work for breakaway, they should work here.

FWIW, I would never cut open a molded Bargman, or the cable that is molded into it. Once you cut the insulation, it will never be waterproof again, and the location where it operates (in or below the rear bumper, subject to all the wheel splash) is nasty. But that is just my preference.

Bill

[ThePair]

I've been watching this thread, and I'm not sure why things are getting so complicated.

In the TM half of the Bargman connector, pin 6 runs directly to the TM battery, and pin 4 runs directly to the brakes. If you jumper pin 6 to pin 4, the brakes are applied. Simple. Nothing more is required. And if you put a switch in the jumper, you can turn the brakes on and off.

So go down to the RV place, buy the mating half of the Bargman (called the car end or tow vehicle end), connect a short wire from pin 6 to one side of a switch, and another wire from pin 4 of the switch, and mount the switch on your power mover. I'm sure that the 12VDC version of the power mover often comes equipped this way. Yes, the wires are long, but as Clown9644 points out, if they work for breakaway, they should work here.

FWIW, I would never cut open a molded Bargman, or the cable that is molded into it. Once you cut the insulation, it will never be waterproof again, and the location where it operates (in or below the rear bumper, subject to all the wheel splash) is nasty. But that is just my preference.

Bill

This is precisely what I wanted confirmed. There is already, on the powermover, a box with the car end of the bargman sticking out. Opening the box (it's just a mounted electrical box) shows the end of the thick bargman coming into the box, and it's cut, and there are two wires coming out (the rest are flush with the end of the insulation). One is Brake (#2, Blue) and the other is Neutral (#1, White). There are a pair of alligator clips wired to these, the neutral is direct, the hot goes through a switch to the brake/blue wire.

I wanted to strip off a little of the insulation off the already cut end of the bargman socket (inside the box), to get access to the 12V Hot (#6, Black) wire that goes down to the bargman, then wire that to the switch and back to the Brake, and cap off the neutral. This should then apply brakes when the switch is closed, right?

Edit: did one better. It was a do-it-yourself bargman socket, so I unscrewed the socket. Only two wires were connected, so I just moved the neutral to the hot and reassembled. Now, flipping the brake will jumper the 12V to the brake line, and should do the trick. Took all of 10 mins, once I thought it through. Thanks!

[RejoiceWay]

We have a Parkit360 - works great.
http://www.parkit360.ca/