Wall Caps for Bed Slides

joshmikow

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Joined
Jan 18, 2023
Posts
6
Location
Fresno, CA
We've been having an issue the last few times we set up / pack up our 2011 3124KB where the bed slides will get stuck on the L plastic piece that is on top of the lower shell. It has gotten to the point where it has scrunched it up enough and pulled it out from the staples used to install it from the factory. We're having the issue on both sides of the rear wall caps. It affects the wardobe being able to sit back over the wall/seal.

I'm not sure what they call it but i sounds like this post from 2011 had a similar issue but used screws to attach it. https://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11420

I'm wondering if an aluminum L/corner piece would be sufficient to replace the plastic pieces or if there are any other ideas on a best fix. I've tried to re-staple them but the metal wall doesn't like to take the staples I've got, even with an electric stapler.

Any thoughts on what to do to make this work better are appreciated as it makes the opening/closing of the trailer pretty frustrating when having to crawl over the counters just to get the scrunched plastic out of the way.
 

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Hey Josh,

There is a lot more activity on the Trailmanor Fans FB group. You might ask this question there. I also am looking for an answer to this question as mine are cracked and clearly aren't going to last long.
 
Thanks. I’m not on fb much anymore and typically try to avoid it. That group is about the only thing that makes me want to log in. When I had searched there I hadn’t seen much either about it. Figured everyone here may have more experience with it.
 
plastic or aluminum L-bar, BUT.attach with VHB tape instead of staples

The original plastic might be is a bit more 'forgiving' when the close shells bounce against the lower box while driving rough roads. Aluminum angle would also have higher heat convection. But either should work fine.

Rather than a set of screws, I would use strips of VHB tape to attach the new anle bar to the lower box - Maybe 1/2" wide, to avoid any sticky stuff working out from under the L bar edges. Both the horizontal "top" and the inside "vertical", but you don't need to paste the whole thing -- just a few strips maybe 3 inches long, spaced 3-4 inches apart from each other, in roughly the same places they used staples before.
 
Hey Josh,

There is a lot more activity on the Trailmanor Fans FB group. You might ask this question there. I also am looking for an answer to this question as mine are cracked and clearly aren't going to last long.

The FB "group" receives a lot more posts per week, but this TMO forum has a vastly more comprehensive collection of information on problems, fixes, and just about everything. It just takes a bit of practice to use the "search tool" effectively. (That's the real search tool pulldown. The google based search doesn't work well, and it usually responds with tons of unwanted and distracting advertisements.)
 
I think this is 3/4" x 3/4" trim, Plastic Angle Wht, 3/4x3/4, 143WH144. Pg 15 in the 2013 parts catalog. Found some options, when I googled that trim info. It might be too thick, but this gives ya some options. From what I see, HD or Lowes carries it. Again thickness might be the hiccup. You could also check with the factory. Also most seem to be clear, verse white.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Outwater-O...Moulding-46-Inch-Lengths-Pack-of-3/5001898393
 
The FB "group" receives a lot more posts per week, but this TMO forum has a vastly more comprehensive collection of information on problems, fixes, and just about everything. It just takes a bit of practice to use the "search tool" effectively. (That's the real search tool pulldown. The google based search doesn't work well, and it usually responds with tons of unwanted and distracting advertisements.)

Thank you for the tip on the Search drop down. I had missed that and was getting a bit frustrated with the google style searching.
 
The original plastic might be is a bit more 'forgiving' when the close shells bounce against the lower box while driving rough roads. Aluminum angle would also have higher heat convection. But either should work fine.

Rather than a set of screws, I would use strips of VHB tape to attach the new anle bar to the lower box - Maybe 1/2" wide, to avoid any sticky stuff working out from under the L bar edges. Both the horizontal "top" and the inside "vertical", but you don't need to paste the whole thing -- just a few strips maybe 3 inches long, spaced 3-4 inches apart from each other, in roughly the same places they used staples before.

I didn't think about how the bed tray may shift during travel. We have mattress toppers on both beds so they fit snug when the shell closes. I'm sure there is still a needed flexibility.

My struggle was with the re-attaching as the staples don't seem to connect to the metal like from the factory. I like the idea of VHB tape once I figure out the best material to use.

Is there anything on the underside of the bed tray that slides on the plastic or is it just the metal lip of the tray? Would it help to put something like the factory plastic for the outside sliding grooves on the bed trays when it pulls out?

I think I'm mostly concerned about it staying in place and the tray sliding smoothly overall.
 
I think this is 3/4" x 3/4" trim, Plastic Angle Wht, 3/4x3/4, 143WH144. Pg 15 in the 2013 parts catalog. Found some options, when I googled that trim info. It might be too thick, but this gives ya some options. From what I see, HD or Lowes carries it. Again thickness might be the hiccup. You could also check with the factory. Also most seem to be clear, verse white.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Outwater-O...Moulding-46-Inch-Lengths-Pack-of-3/5001898393


I looked this up on Amazon to see if I could find anything similar. I found the same stuff but in 6' lengths. it appears they also have different sizes that I wonder if they would fit better or attach better.

I then looked up the company website to see if it would be cheaper direct rather than through amazon. The pricing is close after shipping (within $10) of Amazon and seems to be better than the HD/Lowes options.

I'll probably reach out to the parts dept at TM to see what their pricing is and if they can tell me if it is the same material or something specific.
 
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