TM factory to automate rise/lower function

[rpcoombs]

I've heard that TM is studying a mechanism which would electrically power the raise/lower function. It doesn't seem to be too hard given the present system's counterweight (torsion bar) system. I think that would almost double sales given the fact that the TM's price is generally only in the reach of us "Baby Boomers" and we find it harder to "get it up"! I only hope they will make a retrofit kit given the fact I have invested over $3,000 in solar panels, custom options, etc. What say you (not to steal from a right wing talk radio host --- wonder which side of the aisle most TM' owners are but that's another question)? Cheers, Dick

 

[Windbreaker]

As you pointed out, baby boomers and even more so laters, like their dodads. The more Tech it is the more we want it. I think it is great.

 

[Steverino]

Some skepticism here... After all, one of the good points about these units is that they require no mechanical input other than modest body leverage. Putting power on it has the potential to increase cost, plus give us all one more thing to maintain and/or replace.

That said, I'm a (relatively) fit 36 year-old. I understand that someone who is limited in their physical movement might wish for assistance.

Perhaps this should be an extra-cost option, and easily disconnected (like, pull a pin or something) so that if it fails one can simply raise the shells normally, as if the motor weren't there at all.

FWIW...

Steve

 

[G-V_Driver]

I'd much rather have an electric jack for the tongue. It's a lot more work cranking it up and down than it is raising and lowering the trailer.

Wayne

 

[Senorsedona]

Automation

I vote for powered stabilizer jacks. Raising and lowering the shells is really quite easy, if you lower the end your trying to raise, lowering them is almost automatic. I'm 73 years old and find no problems with my TM. It will add more weight, more mechanical headaches and there goes the battery if you boondocking. No, I like what I have.
I realize there may be a market for automation, but I feel this would head the TM in the wrong direction.

Jack

 

[dalberdash]

My perspective

From my angle, I'd go for small battery powered motors on the leveling jacks that the newer models have. All four (4) of them. Having to bend over is rough on this bad back; and invaribly, having to 'tweak' them takes a lot of bending and cranking. It'd be nice to simply put the footing board under the jack base and 'press the button' to adjust ... rather than crank ... crank ... crank ... well, you get the idea.

 

[nethiker]

I don,t know what all the concern is about power this and power that! My wife has no trouble at all !!!

 

[Bill]

From my angle, I'd go for small battery powered motors on the leveling jacks that the newer models have. All four (4) of them. Having to bend over is rough on this bad back; and invaribly, having to 'tweak' them takes a lot of bending and cranking. It'd be nice to simply put the footing board under the jack base and 'press the button' to adjust ... rather than crank ... crank ... crank ... well, you get the idea.

dalberdash -

You are aware of the quick-and-dirty solution to this, right? Get a cheap battery-powered reversible electric drill. Also get a reasonably large allen wrench - 1/4" is a nice size. Chuck the long end of the allen wrench in the drill. Slip the small end of the allen wrench through the crank-hole in the jack. Pull the trigger, and ZIP! It's done.

This is real simple. Others will suggest slightly more complex versions of the same solution - also good. By the way, a lightweight drill will lower the jack to the ground, and set it firmly there, but that's all. If you actually want to raise the trailer using the jacks, you'll need a heavy-duty drill.

Bill

 

[dalberdash]

Jacks

dalberdash -

You are aware of the quick-and-dirty solution to this, right? Get a cheap battery-powered reversible electric drill. Also get a reasonably large allen wrench - 1/4" is a nice size. Chuck the long end of the allen wrench in the drill. Slip the small end of the allen wrench through the crank-hole in the jack. Pull the trigger, and ZIP! It's done.

This is real simple. Others will suggest slightly more complex versions of the same solution - also good. By the way, a lightweight drill will lower the jack to the ground, and set it firmly there, but that's all. If you actually want to raise the trailer using the jacks, you'll need a heavy-duty drill.

Bill

Yes Bill, very aware of that.

Your last sentence part covers the issue. If the factory offers the battery powered version, then there'd be no need to switch to the hand method when you make contact with the ground.

 

[Bill]

If the factory offers the battery powered version, then there'd be no need to switch to the hand method when you make contact with the ground.

I wasn't as clear as I hoped. A lightweight drill will set the jack pad firmly. In fact, if needed, it will raise the TM perhaps half an inch - but not more. You would need a heavyweight drill only if you haven't levelled the TM, and have to lift the entire TM using the jacks.

When I pull into a campsite, I level the TM on a few scraps of board that I carry on the tongue. Having done so, a lightweight drill is fine for setting the jacks, and I never get out the hand crank and "switch to the hand method". Others of us don't pre-level, preferring to use the jacks to lift the TM into level position. If you are in this group, that's fine. To each his own.

I agree with you, I would hate to lift the TM using the hand crank. Perhaps TM will offer optional electric jacks in the future. My personal feeling is that the cost, the weight, the battery drain (for those of us who dry camp), the complexity and associated failures (these jacks are right down in the water, salt, and mud kicked up from the road) would not be worth it. To me, levelling on boards, then using my $10 drill, is much easier and more reliable. YMMV.

Bill

 

[Simon3xUD]

jacks as levelers or stabilizers?

I wasn't as clear as I hoped. A lightweight drill will set the jack pad firmly. In fact, if needed, it will raise the TM perhaps half an inch - but not more. You would need a heavyweight drill only if you haven't levelled the TM, and have to lift the entire TM using the jacks.

Others of us don't pre-level, preferring to use the jacks to lift the TM into level position. If you are in this group, that's fine. To each his own.
Bill

Ok, now is the time for you wise folks to settle a disagreement . What impact, if any, is there on the TM frame if the leveling jacks are actually used to level the TM instead of just using them as stabilizers? The co-owner of my trailer believes that there can/will be torque on the frame by using the jacks as levelers and that this torque will weaken or perhaps even twist the frame.

Thoughts? Experiences?

Thanks!

 

[dalberdash]

Leveling jacks

Thanks Bill for the clarification and further insight. As you know, more often than not, all sites are not level. Additionally, for traveling, the jacks are usually cranked up into a closed position against the under carriage. As a result, when situated at resting point, one then has to unscrew the jacks down to the support footings; which in itself constitutes several 'hundred' turns of the drill ... or the hand crank ... just to get ready to complete the final levelling process; which now becomes the 'heavy lifting' part.

While I readily admit the small hand drill part about putting the jacks down into the raising condition is OK, and have used it at this end, my comment about having to then change to the hand crank remains; unless of course one has a heavy duty stout drill; which most of us may not because of the space, size, cost, etc.

Thus my suggestion of an optional addition; that being automated leveling jacks powered by small 12vdc motors mounted at the jack's location; controllable by a weather proof button box mounted on the undercarriage in line with the wheels.

In the case of these 12 vdc motors 'eating' up battery power, that could easily be addressed by connecting back up to the Bargman connection on TV and starting it up temporarily until the process is complete. Of course in a park area, with power, that would not apply.

 

[Windbreaker]

You may use the jacks to level!!! I would try to lift within reason and try to level the whole unit not just one point at a time (design to give you less work) but the frame is very strong and each jack can lift 5000#. The trailer frame is not like a car frame in that it is steel welded to other steel, not bolted as in some cars and trucks, it is not designed to "give" as all light trucks and cars are (by law).

In short, Crank that sucker up!

 

[Bill]

Sally -

There has been a LOT of discussion on this board about use of the jacks as jacks, vs stabilizers. A quick search on "stabilizer" will find most of it. The universal conclusion is just as Windy stated it - the jacks are indeed jacks, and are plenty strong to lift the TM bodily off the ground. Go for it!

The only remaining question is whether it is easier to pre-level the trailer by pulling it onto boards or Leggoblocks as Leon describes, or to simply park the TM at whatever angle the site presents, and then muscle it into level position using the jacks.

We will never come to universal agreement on that last question - and fortunately it doesn't matter! Both approaches are good. Like Leon, I don't like heavy lifting, so I use boards - no heavy lifting is ever involved. But other folks don't like the fussiness of prelevelling, so they opt for the muscle approach. Whichever floats your boat, as they say.

Bill

 

[Denny_A]

Procedure recommended is......

in the archives. I'm not real keen on searching for it.

The method I use, and have since reading the procedure, is as follows: Perform the leveling operation with 3 jacks first, then lower the fourth jack. That way, leveling is similar to ballancing a triangle on the horizontal plane. The final jack stabilizes the frame without introducing an undetectable twisting moment on the frame.

If jacks at opposite corners were inadvertantly doing all the the heavy lifting, and the other two, at the other opposite corners were only stabilizing, the twisting moment can (could) create misalignment and possible damage.

Anyone ever notice that sometimes the split door opens and closes normally, and other times the upper half will become disengaged when even the slightest downward pressure is applied to the door handle. I've found that almost always happens when overnighting and the WDH remains connected. I can only hypothesize that the bending moment on the frame affects the stabilization effort by creating a bit of a twist in the frame. I also used to experience the same problem after normal setup... but only prior to using 3-corner stabilizing. So, I think there is someting to it.

As others have noted, I also level (when I had a trailer ) side to side with Levelor blocks to minimize the magnitude of force needed to achieve the scissors jack leveling. Then, level with the tongue jack. Finally use 2 jacks to level the low side first, then use the third jack on the opposite side to fine tune. Once it's perfect, I drop the 4th jack.

HTH
Dennynew_all_cgettin' by on lite beer now)_A