Slide-out floor getting soft

Bill

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I have a question for slide-out owners. In my unit, the floor in front of the couch has gotten quite soft and flexible. I peeked behind the rubber lip and found that the floor is supported by two little wheels (casters) under the edge of the floor, just behind the lip. These are spaced 1/3 of the way and 2/3 of the way across the edge. However, there is no support under the middle of the floor, and since this is where one normally walks (at least when the tables are up), the floor flexes. The flex has gotten worse, and I am concerned that the floor material (presumably plywood) will come apart.

I have taken to shoving a piece of 1x6 board under the rubber lip, to support the floor, but this is ridiculous. Has anyone else has this problem? Any suggestions?

Bill
 
I'd check with TM to see if I could order a couple of extra casters and mount them betwen the two stock casters. That should provide more support. Mounting them might be a bit tough, but that's what needs to be done
 
Lol....finally a question I'm kinda stumped on... ???....(Mine's not a SL version)......but email me some pics, I'd be glad to throw my two cents worth. [email protected] :eek:
 
I have a question for slide-out owners. In my unit, the floor in front of the couch has gotten quite soft and flexible. I peeked behind the rubber lip and found that the floor is supported by two little wheels (casters) under the edge of the floor, just behind the lip. These are spaced 1/3 of the way and 2/3 of the way across the edge. However, there is no support under the middle of the floor, and since this is where one normally walks (at least when the tables are up), the floor flexes. The flex has gotten worse, and I am concerned that the floor material (presumably plywood) will come apart.

I have taken to shoving a piece of 1x6 board under the rubber lip, to support the floor, but this is ridiculous. Has anyone else has this problem? Any suggestions?

Bill


Bill,

My wife noticed the above phenomenon before I did. I never thought of it as a problem; rather a solution.

The problem, it seems to me, seeking a solution, was how many rollers should be used to assist the MANUAL operation of the slideout. Too few and the floor would sag unacceptably. Too many and the unit may be more difficult to open and close than the LEAST able of the envisioned purchasers could manage. So 2 rollers and 3 rollers were probaly not workable (expense of materials needed to limit sag), and 5 rollers, although solving any sag problem, might have increased, above an acceptable limit, the forces needed to operate. Therefore (IMHO) four rollers (2 on the edges, and the 2 at 1/3, 2/3 length) met three objectives.  1. Flex is noticable, but not enough to result in eventual failure. / 2. Operating forces are within predetermined limits. / 3. Construction cost is contained.

Just my thoughts. I could be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.


Denny_A
 
Denny -

I love it! You gotta be an engineer, like Oilspot and me! So now, the critical question - have you gone beyond the theory stage?

I'm inclined toward the three roller solution myself (a new one at the halfway point), since it avoids relocating the present set. Looks like a pain to install, though - it may require either removing or jacking up the slideout somehow, in order to cut the seal and screw down that third roller. If I have to remove the slideout, I will also consider mounting a length of angle iron along the front lip. Maybe even recessed into the plywood (?).

If/when I do it, and have some results, I'll report back.

Bill
 
Denny -

I love it! You gotta be an engineer, like Oilspot and me! So now, the critical question - have you gone beyond the theory stage?

I'm inclined toward the "three roller solution" myself (a new one at the halfway point), since it avoids relocating the present set. Looks like a pain to install, though - it may require either removing or jacking up the slideout somehow, in order to cut the seal and screw down that third roller. If I have to remove the slideout, I will also consider mounting a length of angle iron along the front lip. Maybe even recessed into the plywood (?).

If/when I do it, and have some results, I'll report back.

Bill

Engineer; as accused - 27 yrs removed from practical application! Aeronautics.

Re the subject: If you look at the slide-out box from ouside, three rollers are seen through slots in the white floppy seal strip, at the bottom horiz. edge. A 4th roller is hidden, since it is mounted about 6" forward of the other three. The rollers are fixed to the floor, the bottom of the box glides over them.

Above for reference so we can agree that we're seeing the same view.

While lying on the ground, looking up at the bottom of the box (in set-up mode), an approximately cubical cut-out allows clearance for the propane tanks. The aft edge of the cut-out (lateral segment) also forms the center portion of the couch's front face. It is, in essence, a fairly substantial stiffiner rib, anchored to the floor with screws, spanning the distance between the inner 2 rollers. Agreed, it is about 18" forward of the rollers, but, nevertheless, affords substantial stability and stiffness to the area in question. The rib runs the entire width of the box. I don't know, or can't determine, what the attachment method is, nor whether it acts as a full span stuctural stiffiner.

Cutting to the chase - I don't see a problem. There's a little give in the floor. Not a problem, IMO. But, having been associated with fixed and rotary winged aircraft for many yrs, I'm used to aeroelastic structures. Strong AND elastic - to absorb sudden loads without experiencing permanent elastic failure.

If you decide to give it a go anyway ( :eek: ), this might be the easiest solution. To wit (story first):

One day, whilst in a snit during slide-out opening, I accidently pulled the right side of the box completely off the edge (wall) roller. I was looking into the trailer, betwixt box n' wall. Managed to undo my error.

Which leads me to think that, if the box is opened at a cockeyed enough angle, the same could be done intentionally. The vertical slidout seal then has slipped past the vertical wall seal. With proper support then being provided for the right corner (left looking aft), then by straightening the box again, the left roller (rt facing aft) will support it's side of the box, since it's set about 6" forward of the other 3 rollers.

With the box so arranged, the left still on its roller and the right side safely supported externally, three of the four rollers are visible from INSIDE the trailer. Installing a center roller should then be a snap. that assumes no exotic ( ::)) installation tools or techniques are required.

Them's my thoughts. Good luck.


Denny_A
 
Wow, Denny, you have done a much better job of investigating/observing than I did. I guess I was vageuly aware that there had to be rollers near the walls, since I, too, have managed to slide the slideout too far. But it just didn't really register. I certainly was NOT aware that they weren't in a straight line, so that is very useful input. It sounds like you have a good approach to getting access for installation of a fifth (not third) roller. Thanks.

Now, any idea what the floor material is? It feels like plywood, but I haven't confirmed. Is plywood an aeroelastic material? I'm not sure, though I guess Howard Hughes did build the Spruce Goose out of plywood ...

The real problem that I see is that the flex has gotten progressively worse. In the beginning, it was just kinda bouncy - not too bad. But as time went on, it got to the point where it now flexes right down until it rests on the floor underneath it. Although this is a self-limiting situation, I guess, it still suggests material failure to me. To draw a parallel, I once built a house (camp, actually), and being poor at the time, used 1/2" plywood to span the floor joists. It was OK at first, but as time went on, the plywood began to flex further, then delaminated, and finally broke up. I had to rip up a large section of floor, re-skin it, and install another (offset) half inch layer over the whole thing. The flex in my slideout floor has the same feel to it.

I'll hope to get at this project in the next couple of weeks, and will report back. Meanwhile, thanks again.

Bill
 
 -----snip-------

Now, any idea what the floor material is? It feels like plywood, but I haven't confirmed. Is plywood an aeroelastic material? I'm not sure, though I guess Howard Hughes did build the Spruce Goose out of plywood ...

The real problem that I see is that the flex has gotten progressively worse. In the beginning, it was just kinda bouncy - not too bad. But as time went on, it got to the point where it now flexes right down until it rests on the floor underneath it. Although this is a self-limiting situation, I guess, it still suggests material failure to me.
-----snip-------

I'll hope to get at this project in the next couple of weeks, and will report back. Meanwhile, thanks again.

Bill


Floor material looks like plywood sandwiched with sheet metal. Mine flexes reasonably, showing no signs of being marginal. Since we have the same unit, yr & model, it seems you may have been (as you suggest) unlucky to have had faulty material(s) used in construction of that area.

I'd think a call to TM is in order . Mike Hulsey is probaly the guy to check into it and get a response from the engineer(s).

Good Luck


Denny_A
 
Need help, Last night I pulled the slide out and had an awful time getting it out. When I finally got it out, I noticed the roller fell on the ground. I looked at from where it cometh and saw a hole in the metal from underneath. Tried to put it back, but of course nothing was there that when I screwed it in. We are on a trip for the next 2 months. I am pretty handy. I guess the questions are, what is one the other side. How do I get too it. Do I take the couch out to see what is on the other side. I tried to find a link without starting a new one. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. John
 
John -

It has been a long time, but I think this topic continued in another thread. Probably not worth the trouble to find, but I seem to recall that you can actually pull the slide all the way out of the body, provided that you arrange to have some support under it once the wheels pass the lip. Don't let the slide fall! But once out, you have easy access to everything.

I seem to recall also that I eventually put in another caster, but did so in a needlessly complex manner. Denny_A simply screwed a white nylon block (slippery!) into the appropriate place, and it worked just as well.

If you want to try to find the earlier info, do an Advanced Search for posts containing "slide" posted by Denny_A, or on (I think) "lucite". Good luck - report back!

Bill
 
Thanks Bill, We are on the road. I got it closed ok, bit more difficult than with the caster on. When we opened it for tonight, I could not get it open all the way. Just a few inches short, we are ok and plan on being on the road for a few months. When I get to one of our kids, I will put them to work to help me. Hate to try much when on the road. If you find anything else, please let me know. I am tethered to a cell phone and not the best connection in the world. Thanks for all you do. John

At Oaks of Pointe South for a few days. 40 miles north of Savannah, Ga.
 
If you to completely pull the slide out, remember that there is wiring and a propane line that goes from the main part of the trailer to the slideout to the furnace, so those will have to be disconnected.

Dave
 
John,

Should you decide to remove the living room slide, consider taking the couch out, which will make the move a bit lighter and easier to handle.

I've also posted a few photos in my albums that may be helpful:

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/album.php?albumid=73

Hope you are able to get this repaired soon. Nothing more aggravating than having to deal with a structural support failure while on the road.

Dick
 
You guys are great. Info well appreciated. John. Let you know how it goes when I get to the kids.
 
Piece of cake, I just jacked up the slide and found the wheel had popped out. I just put it back in and put the screws back in that held it in. It was the bottom roller and really an easy repair. Had I know how easy, I would have fixed it on the road, but hate to get started on something I know nothing about and not have all my tools. Another easy fix with how the TM is made.
 

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