Removing TM fridge pics

[Wavery]

I thought that some may benefit by some pics of the removal of the TM fridge. When we look at the back of the fridge compartment, it looks pretty intimidating because of all of the wires all over. Most of those wires have nothing to do with the fridge.

Take off the fridge door and remove 6 screws from the fridge to the cabinet and the fridge pulls right out. Pull it out far enough to unplug the 110V power cord and 12V connections from the outside. Then you can pull the fridge into the living area and easily unscrew the gas line from inside. There is plenty of flexible copper tubing to pull the fridge all the way out.

There are 2, 12V wires that just pull off of the connectors on the bottom of the fridge. The gas line takes a 3/4" wrench for the flare fitting and a 5/8" wrench to hold the fitting that screws into the valve. The 110V cord simply unplugs from an outlet fixed to the back wall.

I think the pics are self explanatory but if anyone has any questions, ask away.

By the way...... the only thing holding the radio into the cabinet (pic # is about 6 little metal tabs that poke out from the radio chassis. Push those tabs back into the chassis and simply slide the radio out of the hole forward.

This removal is pretty straight forward and takes under an hour.

 

[jola1925]

Thanks for the pics. What are the specs for the new fridge?

 

[Wavery]

Thanks for the pics. What are the specs for the new fridge?

4.5 cu ft, 110V running off of trailer's inverter. Draws about 300-500wh per day. My 200W solar panels supplement about 800-1200wh per day.

 

[Bill]

Then you can pull the fridge into the living area and easily unscrew the gas line from inside.....The gas line takes a 3/4" wrench for the flare fitting and a 5/8" wrench to hold the fitting that screws into the valve.

Very nice pictures and description.

Presumably you plug the gas line somehow?

Bill

 

[Wavery]

Very nice pictures and description.

Presumably you plug the gas line somehow?

Bill

I was thinking about just putting an inline shut-off valve but I had a 3/8" brass flare plug so I just plugged it and left it. It isn't a problem so I just pushed it back it and left it.

There is probably about 3' of extra tubing in there to allow you to pull the fridge out before disconnecting the gas line.

 

[jagizzi]

I was easily able to disconnect the propane line from the fridge through the external vents before pulling it out.

 

[coralcruze]

Great write up... thanks wavery

 

[Wavery]

I was easily able to disconnect the propane line from the fridge through the external vents before pulling it out.

That may be true but if someone is pulling the fridge out anyway, there's no reason to risk sticking both arms in such a small space, around all that sharp sheet metal so that they can hold 2- wrenches at the same time.

They can pull the fridge way out and have easy totally open access. That's why I put that part in there.

 

[Cya3124]

4.5 cu ft, 110V running off of trailer's inverter. Draws about 300-500wh per day. My 200W solar panels supplement about 800-1200wh per day.

Do you happen to have the exterior dims or fridge brand/model number? I want to replace our 3-way with an AC powered model as we always have electricity when we camp.

 

[Wavery]

Do you happen to have the exterior dims or fridge brand/model number? I want to replace our 3-way with an AC powered model as we always have electricity when we camp.

This is the Sanyo mini-fridge/freezer that we found. There are many others on the market that will fit in that hole. This one will need some trim work.

 

[Cya3124]

This is the Sanyo mini-fridge/freezer that we found. There are many others on the market that will fit in that hole. This one will need some trim work.

Thanks for the model info. I was looking at some 3.2 cu ft models, but if a 4.5 will fit, might as well go for that. Trim work won't be an issue.

 

[Wavery]

Thanks for the model info. I was looking at some 3.2 cu ft models, but if a 4.5 will fit, might as well go for that. Trim work won't be an issue.

The only thing that you really have to watch is the height. If you want to keep your cabinet intact. My opening is 28.75"high and 23" wide.

If you don't care about the cabinet, you can remove it totally and get a maximum height of about 32" and around 29" wide (on our 2720SL). Just use the top of the fridge as your counter space.

 

[Wavery]

Do you happen to have the exterior dims or fridge brand/model number? I want to replace our 3-way with an AC powered model as we always have electricity when we camp.

If you are still interested in doing this, Best Buy has a 4.5cu ft Frigidaire fridge/freezer on sale for $219.

I hate to admit it but I really screwed up in finalizing the install on my Sanyo fridge but I learned a valuable lesson that others my benefit from.

I made trim moldings to finish off the front of the cabinet and secure the fridge the same way that the original fridge was secured. I simply cut some 3/4' oak to fill the space between the cabinet and the fridge. Then I faced that with 1 1/2" x 3/4" thick molding that screwed into the space on one side and the fridge cabinet on the other. The mistake that I made was screwing the spacer into the side of the fridge with 1" long sheet metal screws. I figured, "what could it hurt, there's nothing but insulation between the sheet metal on the outside of of the fridge and the plastic interior of the fridge with about 3/4" of insulating foam in between". WRONG!!!!! Little did I know, there are refrigerant lines running back & forth in that area and I happened to puncture one and destroyed the fridge.

I spent the whole day installing the new Frigidaire fridge and trimming it out. This time, I used 3M VHB double sided tape to secure the new trim moldings to the fridge. Then screwed the trim moldings to the face of the cabinet. Now I just need to fill the screw holes and stain the wood.

 

[Dads Toy]

Radio

Came across this. Very helpful. We just bought a TM from a whole sale dealer. Our fridge is missing. So looking at installing an electric fridge as we always have power where we camp. Plus from experience the old 3ways don't cool that great on hot days.
Question; Did you keep the old fridge fan? was thinking of removing it to aid in installing the new fridge further back. But thought it might help in removing the hot air that the compressor makes on very hot days. Plan on fiber glassing the inside of the vent covers too. As those will not be needed. Will help with insulation of the camper. What did you do with the radio? I was thinking of mounting it inside the cabinet under the sink.
They now have separate freeze door fridges that will fit in that opening. Found one on Walmart for $96.

 

[Shane826]

Link to that $96 fridge?

 

[Dads Toy]

smaller fridge

Link to that $96 fridge?

It is a little bit smaller. But you can't beat the price. It is narrower than the 4.0 fridge. But will get the job done.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/3-2-Ft-M...er-37-dB-Low-Noise-Stainless-Steel/1786556897

The best one I could find for the bigger size is this Frigidaire from Best Buy. It's on sale for $219. Was looking for one that could hold a gallon jug of water and has a freezer compartment so I can freeze my gel pack for the cooler.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/frigid...th-top-freezer-silver/6257384.p?skuId=6257384

 

[Wavery]

Came across this. Very helpful. We just bought a TM from a whole sale dealer. Our fridge is missing. So looking at installing an electric fridge as we always have power where we camp. Plus from experience the old 3ways don't cool that great on hot days.
Question; Did you keep the old fridge fan? was thinking of removing it to aid in installing the new fridge further back. But thought it might help in removing the hot air that the compressor makes on very hot days. Plan on fiber glassing the inside of the vent covers too. As those will not be needed. Will help with insulation of the camper. What did you do with the radio? I was thinking of mounting it inside the cabinet under the sink.
They now have separate freeze door fridges that will fit in that opening. Found one on Walmart for $96.

Question;
1. Did you keep the old fridge fan. was thinking of removing it to aid in installing the new fridge further back.?..... Yes but I'll probably remove it for the same reason. Although the fridge isn't in the way at all.

2. But thought it might help in removing the hot air that the compressor makes on very hot days......... We just this minute got back from 5-days of desert camping. It reached in the 90s during the day. I never turned on the fridge fan.


3. Plan on fiber glassing the inside of the vent covers too. As those will not be needed. Will help with insulation of the camper....... I left the fridge vent covers in place. However, I did put some screen on the inside. When we desert camp (often) we tow the trailer down some rough dirt roads and haven't had an issue with dirt getting inside.

4. What did you do with the radio?....... I put it on a shelf in the garage. I may sell it. I've owned TMs for about 15 years and we've never turned on that radio.

 

[rickst29]

This scheme as just as effective, far less costly than my 12v.

Slightly OT from the removal and replacement pictures.

My Dometic CRX-1110 EF/S would now cost at least $1500 delivered. There seem to be a lot of larger-than Norcold "compact refrigerators", 120V-AC only, which can fit within the Norcold cut-out: A few of the smaller ones could maybe even leave the radio in place.

For around $300-400, you can buy the fridge. Aside from adequate batteries and solar, which you need for a "12v compressor" fridge anyway, you only need to add a decent Inverter - and keep all the leftover money, hundreds of dollars.
- - -

Although the running amps of these refrigerators is low, an inverter which is "rated" for less than 1500 watts continuous might fail, over time, due to the momentary stress in compressor startup cycles. Your inverter needs to be capable of delivering about 7x the running watts of a typical 120v refrigerator.

That "peak load" happens for only a small fraction of second, but it stresses the Inverter capacitors. It is my impression that may Inverters EBay, Amazon, and elsewhere) are being advertised with unrealistic peak capacities: They can maybe handle that load a few dozen times, bu the wear and tear will eventually cause it to fail.

I therefore recommend an Inverter rated for at least a "1500w continuous, 3000 peak" power delivery, to assure that it can last for all those fridge cycles.

 

[wbmiller3]

Thanks, these pictures will help me find my loose wiring connection to the front shell.

 

[Wavery]

Thanks, these pictures will help me find my loose wiring connection to the front shell.

Thanks for the comment.

That's actually one of the reasons that I posted all those pics. I figured that they may come in handy for other things....... Glad to know that someone could use them.