Questions from a Potential Buyer

[BobRederick]

P&B
Make sure your tires are balanced. That could be the reason for it jumping out.

 

[mtnguy]

I have to say I've played with the adjustments on my shells a bit. The outside shell closes easily but is somewhat heavy to open. I guess I could crank the bars some more but I'm running out of distance. The rear shell is both tough to open and tough to close. I have to put my weight into it to overcome the friction between the shells.
At the Dealer they slide so easily....

larsdennert, since we have the same year and model TM, it also seems we have the same problems. I have my front shell front torsion bars adjusted to the stops.....the rear bars seem to raise that part OK. I found that reducing the weight in the overhead cabinet, and making sure the TM is level, it is now adjusted just right. It is amazing what a pound or 2 extra in that overhead cabinet will do. I also experience some rubbing with the rear shell but it is pretty well balanced. A couple of things I do so the rear shell doesn't rub, is to open the top door (before opening either shell), and don't latch the front shell until the rear is raised. That extra little inward pull when latching seems to matter.

Chap

Chap

 

[Bill]

Lars and Chap -

If the torsion bar adjustment bolts are screwed all the way in, and there is no more adjustment, I would think that a shim - a flat piece of steel between the end of the torsion bar and the end of the big adjustment bolt - would be the solution. At any hardware store, you can buy steel flat bar stock for a couple bucks - it is in the "Threaded Rod" section. You'll probably have to buy a 36-inch length - choose the width to fit into the cage on the torsion adjuster, and a thickness of perhaps 3/16 inch. Cut off an appropriate length with a hacksaw. Then, with the shells up and latched in place, back off the bolt to be adjusted, slip the shim into place, and tighten up the bolt again. It will take some experimenting to get the tension back where you want it, but it will do the job. Do only one bolt, and get the adjustment satisfactory, before moving on to the next bolt.

Or if the problem isn't pressing, you could just ignore it.

Bill

 

[mtnguy]

Bill, in my case, there are plenty of threads left on the adjustment bolt, but the end of the torsion bar is all of the way up against the metal sub frame. As adjusted right now, everything is OK. I am just wondering if maybe TM should have installed the next heavier set of front torsion bars on the outer shell ....maybe because of the AC unit vs. non AC weight on top?? But the outer shell back torsion bars have plenty of adjustment, so that doesn't make since either. The back pops up OK when released, but the front stays on the frame. Maybe they put heavier torsion bars on the back, but figured the front didn't need it....who knows.

To NYJeff: As said in previous posts, when the torsion bars are adjusted correctly, and the TM is level (very important), the opening of the TM doesn't take much muscle power. You can cheat a little by lowering the tongue slightly off plum to raise the front shell, and lower the bumper slightly off plum to raise the back shell.....then it would probably become a 1 handed deal.

Chap

 

[Pat Stafford]

Wasps

One thing I can tell you about the furnace is to be sure to cover the air intake during the Spring, Summer and fall months. We had wasps who decided this was a great place to raise their young. While I don't mind wasps in general, the furnace had to be opened and cleaned out. My wife and I can tell you this is not a fun job. We love our TM and learn something new all the time. From my experience with other various trailer owners, so do they. Nothing is perfect it seems.

 

[larsdennert]

Wow I went to the river a while back. I'm gonna check my water tank for spawning salmon when I get home!

 

[Bill & Lisa]

the problem of wasps is not unique to TM nor should it be viewed as a Flaw in the design. Wasps (mud daubers) are attracked to propane smells. On our TM and now on my 5th wheel I have wire covers over the heater vent as well as the grating for the hot water heater. Propane is the attraction and if you have propane powered items you stand the risk of attracting guests. I would also consider a mesh for the TM fridge vents if you run your fridge on propane.

 

[opqr177]

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[larsdennert]

Hack'n the board?

 

[Scott O]

I don't know who this goof ball is, but his spelling is awful!

 

[Queeniereads]

Since you asked about the wardrobe: big standard hangers are too long, so we bought shorter ones at Walmart. At IKEA, they have great 47 inch hanging shoe "racks" in fabric that have a solid back so stuff cannot slide thru. In addition, they have collapsable "drawers" for these hanging compartments. Really cool! I saw a TM owner at our New England Rally in CT last month who used this system. THe unit velcros over the wardrobe bar.

Most folks seem to keep their extra storage cabinets full when lifting but most seem to keep paper plates and light stuff in them.

We have a 3124KS so our under-bed storage may be different. We do not have shelves in there so we keep a plastic bin of extra towels and sheets and blankets in there along with our sleepingbags and pillows and the air pump for our Select Comfort beds.

Happy hunting -- hope you get that TM. We are happy TM campers.
Queen

 

[larsdennert]

Either he tried to hack the board with a ubb code vulnerability, he has browser issues or the bbs has a corruption and mangled his post.