One sided seal problem

Mike Lafond

New Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2025
Posts
9
Location
Ridgetown Ontario
Hi Folks:

New owner here. 2009 2720. The other side is fine. This gap is about 3/4" at the worst spot by the edge trim. The vents on this side are leaking as well. Will i need to remove both the vent and the pedistal to properly reseal? How is the pedistal held on the roof?

Thanks. Mike
20250628_091732.jpg
 
Is this only in lowered position, raised position, or both? Check the height of the front shell rear corners, and the rear shell corners at the joint, on both sides from level ground.

A bar level can also provide hints, if the shell sides are not perfectly level. This might be adjustable via the torsion bar "spring tension" adjustment screws alone, but the more likely fix is the lift bar height - adjusted carefully, only in "up" position, via bolts which attach the lift bar to the curved vertical end of the corresponding torsion bar.

I see the center really tight, with the seal greatly compressed under the AC unit center. If the street side is also very tight, work on - reducing front lift stength and raised bar heights, if this is a "raised position" photo.

It is possible that the front shell has flattened a lot, that's harder to fix. The fit of the seal can be improved by mounting a new seal with a re-shaped crossbar (basically providing more height to lower the bottom of the seal, but the roof might not shed rain correctly if it
 
Thanks for getting back to me.

Yes this picture shows it the up position. It is on a concrete driveway with about 3/16" runout over the width of the trailer. I measured the height to the bottom metal strip of the back corners of the front shell, and the front corners of the back shell.

Front shell curb side back corner 59" from driveway surface.
Front shell street side back corner 58" from driveway surface.

Rear shell curb side front corner 58"
Rear shell street side front corner 57.5"

So...1" difference to ground on the front shell.
1/2" difference to ground on rear shell.

1 1/2" difference in height on curb side between the shells.
1/2" difference between shells on street side.

I imagine this is not optimal....
Thanks mike
 
Not yet. The above is closed position. Its in the up position that i have some work to do. Saw a video on where to measure, so it should be a huge hassle.
 
Maybe not as big as you might think. First, the air conditioner area is not involved in the shell height issue (seals are a different question), so no need to worry about that.

Beyond that, it appears that the shell heights in the area are OK when the shells are down, but not OK when the shells are up. So I would tend to ignore whatever sets the shell heights in the "down" position and concentrate on whatever sets the shell heights in the "up" position.

This is the lift arms - the white rectangular metal tubes that swing up to vertical as the shell rises. Either the lift arm for the rear shell isn't lifting high enough, or the lift arm for the front shell is lifting too high. The adjustment for the lift arms is at the bottom of the arm, where there are four big bolts that clamp the arm to the bent end of the torsion bar. The adjustment procedure is basically to open the shells to take the pressure off the torsion bar, then loosen the four bolts, then adjust the shell height, then re-tighten the bolts.

WARNING: that description is a simplified summary! The details of the procedure have been reported in great detail here on the Forum. Remember, the shells weigh several hundred pounds, and must be supported and controlled before you loosen those bolts. Doing so is straightforward, but expect to find that timbers, a hydraulic jack, and a rubber mallet are involved.

Other Forum members have more experience in this area than I, and will join the discussion. They may disagree with my conclusions, so listen to anyone who has done it. ISTR that Commodor47 had some particularly good photos - you out there Dick? At any rate, be sure you understand it all before attempting it.
 
Thank you. Yes my reply should have said "shouldn't be a huge hassle". I have seen a video that shows the jack and lumber method. I should be ok. Thanks again.

Mike
 
Mike, when open. Do you see daylight where the gap is? The bag seal looks good, and I defer to others here. Could beefing up that seal be an easier fix than adjusting the shell? Just trying to toss out an alt thought. Both front and back shell has a bag seal. If both are in good condition, and you don't see daylight when open. I would have someone pour about 3-4 oz of water at the area and see if it gets inside. If it doesn't then the back shell bag seal is holding. If the water does get by the second seal...then you already know you need to make adjustments. Again, I defer to others here.
 

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True. The inside bag does seem to pretty well close it up, however I like the double redundancy so I will adjust. I watched a video on what and how to do it. It doesn't seem to be a big deal.
Mike
 

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