Would like to start off by thanking everyone who has maintained this forum and contributed to it. I decided in November to get a camper and have been looking at different options. I managed to buy a hail damaged TM about a week ago and finally got it home Saturday evening. Have not even had time yet to open it up just beat the storm in now too cold to open it.
New owner of 2014QS
- Thread starter ZR2guy
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Wavery
Senior Member
Do you have pics of the hail damage?
The problem with hail damage is that (at some point) it becomes more than just cosmetic. Whenever the contour of the roof is compromised, the aluminum can come delaminated from the polyester foam core. The lamination of the aluminum on both sides of the foam core is what creates the strength of the structure. It's normally not a critical issue but it does weaken the roof incrementally.
If the dents are small, you can cover the roof with a filler, then sand it smooth (it's called "Fairing") and paint it. That won't restore the strength but it will restore the cosmetic value.
I replaced and faired the entire fiberglass deck on my 45' yacht. I completed the job in 5 days. I think that one could fair out a TM roof in 3 days.
The problem with hail damage is that (at some point) it becomes more than just cosmetic. Whenever the contour of the roof is compromised, the aluminum can come delaminated from the polyester foam core. The lamination of the aluminum on both sides of the foam core is what creates the strength of the structure. It's normally not a critical issue but it does weaken the roof incrementally.
If the dents are small, you can cover the roof with a filler, then sand it smooth (it's called "Fairing") and paint it. That won't restore the strength but it will restore the cosmetic value.
I replaced and faired the entire fiberglass deck on my 45' yacht. I completed the job in 5 days. I think that one could fair out a TM roof in 3 days.
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Hello Wavery,
This hail damage discussion caught my attention because I got my Trailmanor with some hail damage on the roof. I assumed it was just a cosmetic problem since the hail dents were very shallow but there were many of them. Couple dozen at least. Might try to fix them anyway though at some point using this Fairing process you mentioned.
I attached a picture of some of the damage. It's not that easy to see depending on the light but you can make it out somewhat if you zoom in. Not sure if you can see it well enough to give me your opinion, but do you think even light damage like this could eventually cause the aluminum to delaminate as you say?
Attachments
Wavery
Senior Member
Hi Rob,
If you are insured, I'd recommend filing a claim with your insurance company. The trailer is probably a total loss with that much damage. There is no "Repairing that type of damage on TMs and the roofs should be replaced.
NOW!! Having said all that. If it were me, I would do the following.
*Start by scrubbing the roof with "Spic and Span" floor cleaner with a soft bristled brush to remove all dirt and oil. Rinse well.
*Hand sand with 220G wet/dry sand paper (wet). Just enough to scratch the entre surface. Don't remove old (white) anodizing.
*Wipe it dry, with a clean microfiber cloth, well then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. (Don't use acetone).
* Now you are ready to start fairing....... Get 1G of "West System Epoxy" (part A and part
with measuring pumps. Also get West System "Microfiber filler". You'll need 6" filler spreaders, auto body filler files and 18" sanding block. Watch some videos on auto body fairing to develop technique.
* Follow direction on the can for carefully mixing the epoxy.
* Add microfiber filler to the consistency of light cake frosting. Mix about 2-cups at a time. You have about 15 minutes working time @ 70*F. I'd do 1/2 of one roof at a time.
*Spread the filler over the entire damaged area with your filler spreader, filling the dents and making the surface level with the old surface. Allow about 20-30 minutes dry time (dry to the touch).
* File flat with body filler file until the entire surface is uniformly flat with the original surface. Then sand the surface with 80G aluminum oxide sand paper and your long sanding block. If the filing balls up, allow more drying time. The material should come off like fine filing dust. All of your sanding should be front to back, longwise with a slight ablong stroke. Remember, the roof is domed in the center. If you sand or file side-to-side, you will never achieve "Flat".
* When the surface is level, you will have pits, divots and holes left over. Mix a smaller batch of filler and use a new spreader to fill these holes etc. Let dry then sand with 80G sand paper again. You may have to make a 3rd pass to get it all smooth, then sand with 120G, then 180G, then 220G paper until you get the smoothness you like.
* The following day, move on to the next section. Try to pick days that are in the 70s F. Work inside if possible and never mix resin after the day starts cooling off.
It's a big job. You may even be able to find an auto body worker that might take this on as a side job. I would expect to pay him between $50 and $100 per hour for an experience bodyman.
BTW....Spray satin or semi-gloss white Rustoleum paint in the qt can for best results. You can use white Rustoleum primer in the spray cans.
If you are insured, I'd recommend filing a claim with your insurance company. The trailer is probably a total loss with that much damage. There is no "Repairing that type of damage on TMs and the roofs should be replaced.
NOW!! Having said all that. If it were me, I would do the following.
*Start by scrubbing the roof with "Spic and Span" floor cleaner with a soft bristled brush to remove all dirt and oil. Rinse well.
*Hand sand with 220G wet/dry sand paper (wet). Just enough to scratch the entre surface. Don't remove old (white) anodizing.
*Wipe it dry, with a clean microfiber cloth, well then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. (Don't use acetone).
* Now you are ready to start fairing....... Get 1G of "West System Epoxy" (part A and part
with measuring pumps. Also get West System "Microfiber filler". You'll need 6" filler spreaders, auto body filler files and 18" sanding block. Watch some videos on auto body fairing to develop technique. * Follow direction on the can for carefully mixing the epoxy.
* Add microfiber filler to the consistency of light cake frosting. Mix about 2-cups at a time. You have about 15 minutes working time @ 70*F. I'd do 1/2 of one roof at a time.
*Spread the filler over the entire damaged area with your filler spreader, filling the dents and making the surface level with the old surface. Allow about 20-30 minutes dry time (dry to the touch).
* File flat with body filler file until the entire surface is uniformly flat with the original surface. Then sand the surface with 80G aluminum oxide sand paper and your long sanding block. If the filing balls up, allow more drying time. The material should come off like fine filing dust. All of your sanding should be front to back, longwise with a slight ablong stroke. Remember, the roof is domed in the center. If you sand or file side-to-side, you will never achieve "Flat".
* When the surface is level, you will have pits, divots and holes left over. Mix a smaller batch of filler and use a new spreader to fill these holes etc. Let dry then sand with 80G sand paper again. You may have to make a 3rd pass to get it all smooth, then sand with 120G, then 180G, then 220G paper until you get the smoothness you like.
* The following day, move on to the next section. Try to pick days that are in the 70s F. Work inside if possible and never mix resin after the day starts cooling off.
It's a big job. You may even be able to find an auto body worker that might take this on as a side job. I would expect to pay him between $50 and $100 per hour for an experience bodyman.
BTW....Spray satin or semi-gloss white Rustoleum paint in the qt can for best results. You can use white Rustoleum primer in the spray cans.
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