List of items to consider to raise the value of the TM

funpilot

Senior Member
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Oct 12, 2013
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Here are some ideas I have shared with TM and thought I would share with the fourms:

1. The refrigerator does not cool well for many customers. A compressor based fridge has been recommended on the TM forums. Test a new refrigerator.

2, Hydraulic or electric lifting for the standard TMs. TM forums do not think it will be hard to do and can be light and inexpensive. Solving this challenge could create very interesting growth and value for TM.

3. Factory installed surge protector to protect electronics from badly wired campgrounds.

4. On demand hot water heater. Winnebago now has them standard on several of their product lines with no issues that I could find. (They use Girard with an adjustable thermostat). In talking with Atwood, they recommended adding a Shurflow pre-pressurized accumulator tank.

5. Black water tank solution. Need to come up with someway to have a vent pipe that will meet RVIA requirements. (Should be easy in the RISE). For the RISE, consider using flexible hose like what is used for cleaning swimming pools or how the swimming pool industry uses telescoping poles that can be tightened in place (here would stop smells).

6. Idiot safety issues for the RISE: Sensors that protect damaging the RISE from being lowered if the Murphy bed is still up unless it will automatically go down if it is; Manual over ride to lower RISE if ever needed;

7. You told me you are thinking about adding as much as 4-100 watt solar panels. If you do that, you should consider being able to have 4 6 volt batteries to take advantage of that capability. Thinking through where they should go, the electronics for monitoring them should be part of a study or feedback from these forums.

8. On the RISE, consider having the bathroom self construct when the RISE is raised. To do that, you may need to nest the rising walls inside the stationary walls. In the larger RISES, you need to think of doing a rear-bath (whole back side is the bathroom) so that you only have one nesting wall (like a pocket door but pulling up rather than to the side). That will allow you to construct a first class bathroom. For the classic TMs, would be interesting to see if there is a way to do the same or similar thing. I just feel that once the trailer is up, the bathroom should be done.

9. Better counter tops. I have seen several used TMs and in each one the edges are chipped. I am talking to http://www.polystonecreations.com/ to see if they can come up with an affordable product for the RV industry but it can be any other product. I think it has to be a solid surface of some sort that adds a luxury feel.

10. Rethinking the use of wood. The entire industry is getting very sensitive to rot. You need to consider how you can remove all wood from your framing. One manufacturer experiencing explosive growth is LivinLite for that reason. No wood, all aluminum.

11. One last concern for the RISE. As you make it longer, bowing in the middle could become an engineering challenge. You may need to consider adding "telescoping support columns" for the customer to lock in place when the RISE is up.

12. The murphy bed in the RISE offers a wonderful opportunity to do something special on its bottom when it is now raised up. That could be the perfect place to create more storage opportunities when up (mounting swivel storage that are always up right would allow the customer to not have to remove items), mount an electronic fireplace to it for beauty that can only have power when up, etc.
 
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Only had a TM for a few months but looking into many of these already:
1. The refrigerator does not cool well for many customers. A compressor based fridge has been recommended on the TM forums. Test a new refrigerator.

GA fridges are very inefficient. A modern 12v/120v can run at 30-40W instead of 180 and have more space inside. Unless you need the propane capability, it makes sense to go to a compressor.

2, Hydraulic or electric lifting for the standard TMs. TM forums do not think it will be hard to do and can be light and inexpensive. Solving this challenge could create very interesting growth and value for TM.

Key here is that people generally only need help raising, not folding. Help raising can be done purely mechanical - no hydraulics or electic morors at all. Once you start thinking that way all sorts of things are possible. Front is easy, rear a little harder to create the right pivot point. Need to get some 1/2" aluminum tubing.

3. Factory installed surge protector to protect electronics from badly wired campgrounds.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/smart-rv-surge-protector-30-amp/56423

4. On demand hot water heater. Winnebago now has them standard on several of their product lines with no issues that I could find. (They use Girard with an adjustable thermostat). In talking with Atwood, they recommended adding a Shurflow pre-pressurized accumulator tank.

No opinion but common in Europe.

5. Black water tank solution. Need to come up with someway to have a vent pipe that will meet RVIA requirements. (Should be easy in the RISE). For the RISE, consider using flexible hose like what is used for cleaning swimming pools or how the swimming pool industry uses telescoping poles that can be tightened in place (here would stop smells).

Not RVIA issue but ANSI A119.5 chapter 4 section 8.3.4. Major requirement is 1 1/2" (38mm) diameter or equivalent surface area if not round extending through roof.

Suspect the easy way would be to have two ducts parallel to each other, one for when the roof is folded and another for when it is open. with a horizonal component so only need ont roof termination.

7. You told me you are thinking about adding as much as 4-100 watt solar panels. If you do that, you should consider being able to have 4 6 volt batteries to take advantage of that capability. Thinking through where they should go, the electronics for monitoring them should be part of a study or feedback from these forums.

200W/hr for 8 hours should recharge almost anything. One issue with 4 GC2s would be 250 lbs. I have one Grp 29 (12v 125 AH). By having the one and turning it sideways in the rear comparment I still have room for the 2500W genny)
 
For us the compressor refeer is a no go. Dry camping is mostly what we do and the Norcold has worked for us for decades on gas. CG's that have elec usually run $5 to $7 more per night versus those without. 4 nights of elec. is the cost to fill a bottle of propane which last between two and three weeks. As for a camper with ac/dc reefer only we wouldn't buy it.
 
I talked briefly with TM on the refrigerator today and they did not want to go away from a three way model. Having said that, I believe they are very receptive to looking at any better ones anyone here might recommend.
 
I talked briefly with TM on the refrigerator today and they did not want to go away from a three way model. Having said that, I believe they are very receptive to looking at any better ones anyone here might recommend.



Glad they didn't take your suggestion as some of us love the TM's we have including the 3 way frig !!!!!!
 
Plus 1

For us the compressor refeer is a no go. Dry camping is mostly what we do and the Norcold has worked for us for decades on gas. CG's that have elec usually run $5 to $7 more per night versus those without. 4 nights of elec. is the cost to fill a bottle of propane which last between two and three weeks. As for a camper with ac/dc reefer only we wouldn't buy it.

I also can only use the propane option. No hookups, electric, or water.

Larger solar panel? Great.
 
I have got to agree with others who prefer the 3-way. We will camp with hookups for the first time this weekend. Have never had hookups before, and have many week-long trips under our tires.
 
So, has anyone replaced the standard TM 3-way refrig with a better one that they would like to suggest?
 
So, has anyone replaced the standard TM 3-way refrig with a better one that they would like to suggest?

Why do you seem obsessed with the frig? Mine works fine, I've had a three way refrigerator for forty years with excellent results. If you want a motor home buy one. Most of the members here have no issues, by the way trial members can join for a few bucks a year!
 
Why do you seem obsessed with the frig? Mine works fine, I've had a three way refrigerator for forty years with excellent results. Most of the members here have no issues.

Agree. I have had a 3 way fridge in my TM and in my pop up for 13 years before that. Never had issues. ANY fridge will have issues when it gets very hot and especially humid. You don't go in it as often and keep it short, keep it as full as possible so you are not trying to cool air.

I keep a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer with the outdoor sensor inside the fridge. Then I always know the temp. Works great.
 
That makes sense about the fridge. Am not obsessing over it, just wanted input if there were any other RATIONAL alternatives. Seems that there are none, so that is off my list.
 
4th camper with propane fridge. I would not buy a camper without a propane fridge. It's nice to have 120V, 12v DC is OK. But without propane, it's not a fridge that would work for us.

It seems to me everyone who get a camper, at first is not that happy with the cooling of a camper fridge. But once you get use to them, you forget about it.
 
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I like having three alternatives, much better than two.:D

Ditto!

Out sometimes, plugged in, and the pedestal goes out. Happens sometimes. At least, if I know it happened, I have a gas backup so all the food doesn't spoil.

I haven't camped without electric yet (we don't go to places with water hookups, but we always get electric), but it's nice to know we have the option, as time goes on, so we can choose to explore that avenue in the future.
 
Dometic CR-1110 E/F seems great (so far)

So, has anyone replaced the standard TM 3-way refrig with a better one that they would like to suggest?
Dometic/Waeco 1100 E/F-S (marketed as a "luxury boating fridge") fits the Norcold installation area almost exactly, if you remove the decorative flange from the Fridge and plane about 3mm from one of TM's vertical "front trim" boards for extra width. It worked much better than the Norcold on its single outing so far - it kept interior temps in the mid-30s, easily, while outdoors reached nearly 90F. (A "good" Norcold would have reached high 40s, maybe even 50F inside on that day). 'Boondock' USFS conditions, running off my Solar. But it's costly.
Upgrade from Norcold to Dometic CR-110 E/F-S (compressor fridge)

Edit 6/15/2017:
I've done several trips since the original 2014 post, and a major upgrade: At the flick of a dashboard switch, I can now make the 4Runner deliver 24V on the Bargeman "Trailer Battery. Under clouds on the road, I just flick the "magic dashboard switch" to invoke the switch to 24V mode: The TM detects this voltage change, and switches the connection of Bargeman "Battery Charge +" to run as Solar Input to the MPPT, disconnected the Bargeman from the 12V TM electrical system. Whenever the batteries are run down and Solar conditions aren't great, I can use the 4Runner as a generator - it's not very noisy when idling, the gas consumption is low, and the gas tank is very large.

My Fridge (Dometic Compressor, 12VDC or 120VAC, auto-switching) stays cold (sub-40) in 100-degree ambient temps. The only real issue with my setup is cost: The Fridge cost about $900, the "genuine" Solar system cost almost $500, and parts for the "fake Solar" capability cost about $100 more. (The "genuine" Solar would be a bit cheaper these days, but it's still a big ticket item.)
 
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