Interior Seal - Front Bed

[Knotty-TMO]

My new 2024 2518KB has a lot of air coming in from below the front bed along the front bulkhead wall. The rubber seal that runs the width of the bed/wall is about 1/4" from the wall. I believe the bed should be able to slide out a bit further to bring the seal into contact with the wall but that does not seem possible. Probably better explained with the drawing and pics below. What should I do?

 

[Kidkraz]

Knotty, is there a gap at the front of the bed platform where it meets the lower front shell section? Make sure there's nothing preventing it from meeting the front shell seal.
The inside seal should meet the box wall, on the first/wrong picture. Are the front bed locks engaged into the box wall holes? When I slide the bed forward, sometimes the locks are snug, but do slide into the hole in the box walls.
The picture attached, is an older version of what you should see, being on the front bed rail at the outer edges where it meets the box walls.

 

[commodor47]

I would bring it back to the dealer for a shell "travel" adjustment. It could be as simple as allowing the shell to open just a bit further in its travel arc. There is a shell "travel" stop adjustment which has been discussed extensively on the forum. Given it is a 2024 model I would let the dealer correct the issue.
Dick

 

[Knotty-TMO]

Knotty, is there a gap at the front of the bed platform where it meets the lower front shell section? Make sure there's nothing preventing it from meeting the front shell seal.
The inside seal should meet the box wall, on the first/wrong picture. Are the front bed locks engaged into the box wall holes? When I slide the bed forward, sometimes the locks are snug, but do slide into the hole in the box walls.
The picture attached, is an older version of what you should see, being on the front bed rail at the outer edges where it meets the box walls.

The front of the bed does meet the seal on the lower front shell section. No matter how hard I push, the bed will not move out any further and the bed locks are engaging their respective sockets.

I would bring it back to the dealer for a shell "travel" adjustment. It could be as simple as allowing the shell to open just a bit further in its travel arc. There is a shell "travel" stop adjustment which has been discussed extensively on the forum. Given it is a 2024 model I would let the dealer correct the issue.
Dick

Unfortunately the dealer is almost 4 hour away so if I can figure out how to adjust it myself, that's preferable. I'll search for info on the travel stop adjustment you referenced.

Thanks to both of you for the advice.

 

[Bill]

In the close-up photo in your first post, there is a white plastic (aluminum?) member going across the center of the picture. It looks like a length of L-stock, but it could also be a square tube. It looks like the lower edge of that white item is low enough to interfere with lifting the edge of the table off its support bracket, which should not be true. It implies that the white thing is misplaced or mis-oriented. Does it appear that rolling it 45 degrees, to square it up, would let the bed slide forward a bit?

Bill

 

[Knotty-TMO]

In the close-up photo in your first post, there is a white plastic (aluminum?) member going across the center of the picture. It looks like a length of L-stock, but it could also be a square tube. It looks like the lower edge of that white item is low enough to interfere with lifting the edge of the table off its support bracket, which should not be true. It implies that the white thing is misplaced or mis-oriented. Does it appear that rolling it 45 degrees, to square it up, would let the bed slide forward a bit?

Bill

If I'm understanding you correctly, that white plastic member is the flat rubber seal (in red on the drwg.), which is failing to make contact with the wall. On my 2518, the table actually slides DOWN to come off the support bracket and UP to reinstall.

 

[Bill]

Uh oh. No cigar for me.

Is it possible that the white rubber seal is simply screwed to the underside of the bed tray in the wrong place? Could you remount it a little closer to the wall?

Or is it facing the wrong way? Your sketch suggests that the inside of the seal's bend should be facing the inside of the trailer. But in that same photo, it appears that the outside of the bend is facing into the trailer. Maybe a trick of the camera?

Going back into my corner now.

Bill

 

[mickmanor]

Another guess

is that the metal brackets need to be resized by cutting them horizontally
where the top screws are. That theory could be tested by removing the
brackets. If that allows the bed to seat fully, about another 1/4", then a
resize might be in order. Two new holes wold need to be drilled slightly
lower than the existing holes, and the horizontal cut made for the downsize.

The above might work, but the problem may really be a design oversight.

 

[Kidkraz]

Knotty, the covered padding on the inside of the bed comes off. I suspect the seal might be installed in reverse; if that makes sense. The seal is an "L" angled seal, if my memory serves me correctly. If you pull the bed into the camper, look under the front edge, see if the seal is angled. You should be able to just flip it. I'm hoping, I'm making sense in my description. You can remove the front, just remove the screws. The pic attached is what you'll see once the padded front is off. I would reach out to the factory or the dealer you bought from to ask about any adjustments. You'll also have this issue on their records if there's a need for adjustment.

 

[Knotty-TMO]

Knotty, the covered padding on the inside of the bed comes off. I suspect the seal might be installed in reverse; if that makes sense. The seal is an "L" angled seal, if my memory serves me correctly. If you pull the bed into the camper, look under the front edge, see if the seal is angled. You should be able to just flip it. I'm hoping, I'm making sense in my description. You can remove the front, just remove the screws. The pic attached is what you'll see once the padded front is off. I would reach out to the factory or the dealer you bought from to ask about any adjustments. You'll also have this issue on their records if there's a need for adjustment.

That was it! What I thought was a flat rubber seal is actually L-shaped and it's held to the bottom of the bed slide out with a rectangular plastic trim piece. It was all installed reversed like you suggested. Pic of as installed and drawing of how it should be. Thanks!

 

[Kidkraz]

Knotty, glad its resolved. Reach out to the factory and let them know of the problem and what you found. Someone missed this. Knowing, enables them to double check and educate the person, if it was a new hire. They can't correct an issue, if they don't know about it. Happy warmer camping my friend.

 

[Knotty-TMO]

Knotty, glad its resolved. Reach out to the factory and let them know of the problem and what you found. Someone missed this. Knowing, enables them to double check and educate the person, if it was a new hire. They can't correct an issue, if they don't know about it. Happy warmer camping my friend.

The sketch you provided really helped and I'll let the factory know.

For the moment, I'm plugging the leak by putting a length of clear vinyl medical hose in the gap between the bottom of the bed and top of the bulkhead. This is done from the outside and takes only seconds.

Unless I have other work that the dealer needs to do, taking off the existing seal and trim piece isn't worth the 3.5 hr drive each way. I may try the repair myself but the trim and seal are held in place by staples and it may be tough to remove plus I don't think my basic electric stapler could be used to put it back on.

 

[Bill]

Is this the same trim piece I described as "facing the wrong way" in #7 above? If so, you should be able to ease the leading edge of the staple out using a stiff putty knife or a thin screwdriver above the slat, below the plastic. Then complete the extraction using electrician's pliers or the like to grip the head of the staple. Flat head screws into newly-drilled holes should work well for reattaching it.

Bill

 

[Knotty-TMO]

Bill, you were correct in your assessment. Then Kidkraz's drawing made it all come together for me.

I will probably follow your advice on removing and then flipping the seal once the weather gets a bit warmer, so I can do it w/o cold hands. Thanks!