Hello from Central Texas

[bkncd]

My post in the TrailManors Wanted forum searching for a used TM 2720 or 2619 yielded me a very nicely renovated and well maintained 2004 2619 from a member in Colorado (don't know his handle here), who reached out to me after seeing my post. I'm very happy with the unit, although I know I have a lot to learn about TrailManor ownership and maintenance.

The previous owner had updated the interior and exterior, repainted and resealed the roof, added 200W of solar to the roof with a PWM charge controller, added the TM plumbing guard and generally saw his TM as a labor of love. My first upgrade will be to install a 30A recepticle in place of the whole brain-dead mouse hole process resident in this TM.

I'm looking forward to many travel adventures in my new-to-me) 2619 I have a couple of short trips (3 to 4 days/nights) in Central Texas in the next month to get acquainted with the new-to-me TM2619.

Help please: I have a question for the group. I was given a curved tool bit for the stabilizer jacks that can be used in a standard drill chuck. I would like to find a similar tool that has a 1/4-inch hex shaft that will allow me to use my impact driver to raise/lower the jacks. I tried a couple of drill chucks with 1/4-inch hex shafts, but they fail (the chuck loosens and drill spins but tool doesn't) when I run the impact wrench counterclockwise to raise the jack. As an alternative, I could weld a 3/4-inch or 19mm nut on the jacks, but I'd like a simpler solution if there is one. Thanks in advance!

 

[Wavery]

I found it better to just replace the jacks with the ones that have the 3/4" Nut on them. It makes the camper look nicer and operate smoother too.

Amazon.com

 

[Bill]

Regarding the tool for the jacks. If your wrench has an actual chuck, capable of gripping a hex shank, a real easy solution is to use an Allen wrench (aka hex wrench) and chuck the long end. I used a 1/4" size - I wouldn't go any smaller. A long-shank version is available, but I never bothered as it is a bit less convenient to carry. Some folks complain that the short end can chew up the edge of the round hole in the jack, but why would you care?

 

[Bill]

Regarding the "brain-dead mousehole" for the cord - I agree with that description. I hated that thing on my old TM. But I also found the Marinco-style plug and socket on my newer TM to be brain dead. I know, the Marinco is "elegant" (it is used on yachts!) But to me it was a PITA to use. My reasoning, and my very easy alternative, are discussed beginning with Post #2 in this thread.

Mouse hole for power cord

I’ve got a mouse hole, but a short cord inside with the long separate power cord. Not sure if some PO cut a 30A power cord short and wired it into the panel. But I can’t fit either plug through that hole, so I have to feed the cord through the opening in the bumper to plug in. Thinking of...

www.trailmanorowners.com

 

[bkncd]

Regarding the tool for the jacks. If your wrench has an actual chuck, capable of gripping a hex shank, a real easy solution is to use an Allen wrench (aka hex wrench) and chuck the long end. I used a 1/4" size - I wouldn't go any smaller. A long-shank version is available, but I never bothered as it is a bit less convenient to carry. Some folks complain that the short end can chew up the edge of the round hole in the jack, but who cares?

Thanks! Nice idea. If it eventually "ruins" the hole, I can always weld on the nuts.

 

[bkncd]

Regarding the "brain-dead mousehole" for the cord. I agree with that description. I hated that thing on my old TM. But I also found the Marinco-style plug and socket on my newer TM to be brain dead. My reasoning, and my very easy alternative, are discussed beginning with Post #2 in this thread.

Mouse hole for power cord

I’ve got a mouse hole, but a short cord inside with the long separate power cord. Not sure if some PO cut a 30A power cord short and wired it into the panel. But I can’t fit either plug through that hole, so I have to feed the cord through the opening in the bumper to plug in. Thinking of...

www.trailmanorowners.com

I've never known anything except a detachable 30A cord and plug. I have bunch of headlamps, so I wouldn't have to juggle the flashlight... but I understand your point. I do now understand why I've seen some TMs with the cord coming straight out of the tank lid instead of the mouse hole.

A piece of plastic in the back of the mouse hole broke on my trip back from picking it up. It was a cold night in NM and the cord was stiff. Made me realize what a bad design that was.

Thanks for the perspective. I can see your point.

 

[bkncd]

I found it better to just replace the jacks with the ones that have the 3/4" Nut on them. It makes the camper look nicer and operate smoother too.

Amazon.com

Yeah, I'm considering that as an option also. Are those the jacks you used?

 

[bkncd]

Regarding the tool for the jacks. If your wrench has an actual chuck, capable of gripping a hex shank, a real easy solution is to use an Allen wrench (aka hex wrench) and chuck the long end. I used a 1/4" size - I wouldn't go any smaller. A long-shank version is available, but I never bothered as it is a bit less convenient to carry. Some folks complain that the short end can chew up the edge of the round hole in the jack, but why would you care?

I used my micrometer to measure the tool I was given with my TM. It is 10.94mm. So I took my standard drill driver with a 1/2-inch drive bit and used my deep 10mm impact socket and a 10mm Allen wrench. Worked like a charm. Thanks for the suggestion, Bill!

I know this sounds a bit convoluted, but it works and all of the parts are things I travel with when I'm camping anyway. Whenever I decide to replace the stabilizer jacks, I'll use ones with the nut already on the jack as Waverly suggested.

 

[Bill]

Do you have a drill-driver or an impact wrench? A drill-driver is quieter but not nearly as powerful . My experience is that it is great on jacks, but won't remove lug nuts. My impact wrench pops lug nuts off with ease, and is wicked fast on the jacks, but it is also pretty noisy. I try not to use it in a campground after dark.

 

[bkncd]

Do you have a drill-driver or an impact wrench? A drill-driver is quieter but not nearly as powerful . My experience is that it is great on jacks, but won't remove lug nuts. My impact wrench pops lug nuts off with ease, and is wicked fast on the jacks, but it is also pretty noisy. I try not to use it in a campground after dark.

impact wrench - it's a fairly old Ridgid

My cordless drill is not a drill driver, just a run-of-the-mill Dewalt (after their quality declined a bit). I don't own a drill driver, so maybe I'll borrow my neighbor's drill driver and test it on my jacks.

Yeah, it can get noisy on occasion when it has to work hard. But up until the jack hits the pad/ground and starts supporting the trailer, it's pretty quiet.

 

[Wavery]

Yeah, I'm considering that as an option also. Are those the jacks you used?

Yes. The bolt holes lined up perfectly which was a plus.

I bought these at the same time.

Amazon.com

 

[bkncd]

Yes. The bolt holes lined up perfectly which was a plus.

I bought these at the same time.

Amazon.com

Brilliant!