Gas only water heater ?

OW

OwenTrail

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Westminster, Colorado
I have a old model 1996 2518 I bought 3 years ago and the hot water heater has never worked. I can't get the pilot to light. Won't allow any gas to get to the pilot light. I don't believe there is a electric option with this old of model? Could it be as simple as a bad anode rod? The stove and furnance work a-okay.
 
We have a 1997 and it is gas only. You have to go outside, put your lighter flame over the lighting area, and hold down the red button for a long time in order to warm it up enough to light it. Haven't lit it up in a while due to Covid 19 so details escape me.
 
I was under the impression that there were companies that made a combo sacrificial anode/heating element to convert the older gas-only models to electric. It would take some wiring, but I think someone here may have done the conversion in the past? Hopefully they'll chime in.
 
OwenTrail said:
I have a old model 1996 2518 I bought 3 years ago and the hot water heater has never worked. I can't get the pilot to light. Won't allow any gas to get to the pilot light. I don't believe there is a electric option with this old of model? Could it be as simple as a bad anode rod? The stove and furnance work a-okay.
Click to expand...

To get to your original question, I don't think there is any way that the anode rod could prevent the gas from flowing, or the burner from lighting. As the name suggests, the anode rod is a simple metal rod, a few inches long, entirely enclosed inside the water heater tank. It has no function related to heating in any way. On the other hand, the gas apparatus has a number of parts, all of which are outside the tank.

The first thing to check is whether the gas valves are on. As I recall, there is a gas valve within the water heater itself. If you can provide the manufacturer name and the model number of your appliance, it will help a lot.

You say that something "won't allow any gas to get to the pilot light." How do you know that no gas is getting there? Are you using the push-and-hold-to-light button that B_and_D described? You have to hold the button down for many seconds, and apply a flame (I recommend a long-snout butane barbecue lighter) for that entire time. Assuming the valves are on, the pilot will eventually light. If it doesn't, you are right - there is no gas getting to the pilot. If it does light, then making it stay on when you release the button is another question. Please let us know what you are finding.

Assuming you can get a flame at the pilot, more than likely the burner mechanism is just rusty-dusty-dirty-spider-webby. Your task will be to disassemble it and clean it up. You'll need to use a soft brush to remove dust and dirt, a wire brush to remove rust, and perhaps other tools to clean things. This is where the diagrams and troubleshooting procedures in the manual will be really helpful. You may find that some metal parts have rusted beyond repair, and must be replaced. Fortunately nothing is really expensive.

If you get back to us with some of this information and results, we will try to continue helping the situation. If the pilot light will light but won't stay on, or if if it stays on but the main burner won't light, we have experts here who can help. In particular, look for posts on the subject from Commodor47. But he needs to know where to start.

Bill
 
Shane -

Your link goes to a device called a Hott Rod. I had heard of it, but never really looked at it. Interesting device, and I think a nice inexpensive solution to the OP's situation, assuming he can't get the gas burner going.

I think there are a couple things that should be considered before buying one.

o The Hott-Rod has an adjustable thermostat, which may be a nice thing. The gas/electric Suburbans have a fixed thermostat.

o The gas+electric Suburban 6-gallon water heaters use an electric element rated at 1440 watts of heating power. The Hott-Rod is rated at 400 watts. (One reference says 450.) This means it will take almost four times as long to heat the water. You have to decide for yourself if that is acceptable.

o Since it installs into the opening that was used for the anode rod, you lose the anode rod function.

o My big question is where you mount the thermostat. It is a metal-and-plastic block that MUST be mounted tightly against the metal surface of the tank. You have to cut away the insulation to do that. Apparently it can be done, since the Hott-Rod advertsing says it is compatible with Suburban units - but it is pretty crowded in there. Be sure you have some idea what you are getting into.

Bill
 
Bill-

Meyers RV (local camper dealer superstore chain) has had one of these on clearance forever, I’ve looked at it a few times. I believe this replaces the drain valve. Anode rod stays right where it is.
 
Owen -

Thanks everybody. The helpful responses on this forum always amaze me. All the information sure does help. I'll try your suggestions and update when I can. Too cold right now to pull the trailer out and open it up. Hopefully soon. It sure would be nice to get the water heater going before this coming camping season.
 
Shane826 said:
Bill-

Meyers RV (local camper dealer superstore chain) has had one of these on clearance forever, I’ve looked at it a few times. I believe this replaces the drain valve. Anode rod stays right where it is.
Click to expand...

I wasn't aware that Suburbans have a drain valve. B_and_D, does your 1997 unit have a drain valve? The instructions for the Suburban SW6DE series, which TM has used at least since 2000, say it can be drained by removing the anode rod.

Another reason why we need to know the make and model of Owen's unit!

Bill
 
I don't know if the heater itself has a drain valve but if you open the drain valve at the bottom of the trailer in that area it will drain the hot water heater (must open up the faucet first).
 
B_and_D -

Thanks for your answer. The draining method you refer to is the same one used today, but it not part of the water heater itself. The installation instructions for the Hott Rod include a picture (attached) of a drain valve that is screwed into the metal tank of the water heater. Never seen this on a Suburban. However, a quick look at the Atwood 6 gallon manual shows that it has this plug.

Shane -

The Hott Rodd appears to come with 2 or 3 adapter bushings. Apparently there are only a couple needed sizes among the major manufacturers, and Suburban is on the list. Again, we need to know what Owen has. Owen, I understand your reluctance to pull the trailer out into the cold and snow. Do you have a book of manuals that came with the trailer? I know - like mine, it is probably inside the trailer. But we can't go much further without it.

Bill
 

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Owen-

I have a 4 day weekend coming up and plan on pulling the TM out then. Hopefully I'll have some good weather. Looks like I will. No manuals when I purchased the trailer, and I have been pretty much relying on the forum to answer all my newbie questions to having a trailer. This forum has been a life saver.
 
Our Suburban water heater has an adjustable thermostat. I think I have the owners manual out in the TM, I'll try to scan it and post sometime this week. Trying to get over a fractured ankle right now.

I need to add that you have to get gas going to the refrigerator and stove before you try to light the water heater.
 
I was able to get the trailer out this weekend with some nice warm weather. Went straight to the water heater to see if I could get it started, and wallah, fired right up. I am embarressed to say that all the problem was I wasn't trying to light the pilot by the thermo-coupler. Yikes, sometimes I scare myself.
 
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