Garage door clearance

[KParis]

Hi,

Can anyone tell me the length of model 2619 from either
1. the middle of the wheel (axle) to the rear end or
2. the back of the AC to the rear end?

I am assuming the AC is on top above the axle. In my garage, I only have 2.25 inches of clearance for the AC (the brochure says when the TM is closed, it is 78.75 inches high with the low profile AC and the top of my garage door is 81 inches). My driveway is fairly steep and I need to figure out if the TM will level off before I get the part with the AC into my garage. It quickly begins to level off when my own car is 5 ft. inside and is completely level when 6 ft. of my car is inside. So I am hoping that I have at least 5-6 ft from the back of the AC to the rear of the TM. I couldn't tell from the pictures posted at Trailmanor. If not, I may have to let air out of the tires to get it into my garage and use an air compressor to put air back in.

Do I make sense?

4. Last question--is there some kind of handle to hold onto when entering and leaving the TM?

Thanks for your help, Kathy Paris

 

[MisterP]

I can only answer your last question. My wife has a very bad knee and uses a combination of the door frame and the torsion bar adjacent to it to get onto the first step. Our 3326 has a handrail inside on the back of the dinette to use from that point. But the door frames where the door folds in make useful support areas.

 

[camp2canoe]

I can't answer your question about the angle but two have two tips which may be useful.

There may be two ways of getting a little extra clearance. (Other than letting some air out of the tires!) The very bottom of many sectional garage doors hang down a bit in the door frame but can be manually pushed up to gain additional clearance. In a former garage I could pick up almost 4" of vertical clearance by pushing up on the bottom of the door and propping it open with a 2x4.

In my present garage I was concerned about A/C clearance and noticed that the "car" pulled by the chain on the opener was connected to the door by an aluminum strut with several holes to provide for proper adjustment. On my door the installer used a hole that was almost 5" above the bottom. I just sawed off the unused section of the strut to gain additional A/C clearance.

Hope this may help someone! - camp2canoe

 

[Bill]

As a way of getting some extra garage door clearance, you can prop the door up with a board (as camp2canoe suggests), or adjust the opener to get the same effect more easily, assuming you have an electric opener. Post #17 in this thread may give you some help.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5571

Either method should help a lot with the situation you describe.

Bill

 

[mcgyver210]

I used to have a 1 ton van that would only clear door opening height by what seemed to be un-measurable amount but the garage hung down lower so all I did was adjust the electric openers back stop & it could pull the door all the way up. On mine there is a back stop & forward stop switch that has one or two set screws to hold it in place.

 

[ThePair]

If you can't back it in, you might be able to nose it in. That's what I do, using a winch bolted to the floor of the garage in the back. That might give you the extra clearance.

 

[KParis]

Thank you

Excellent ideas. Thank you.

Kathy Paris
Future owner of a 2619