Essential Accessories for First-Time Towable RV Owners

[rockytrail]

Hi, I just purchased a 2518KB Sport that I’ll pick up in about 6 weeks.

Previously we had a class B that we did vanlife in for a year with our two kids.

Now the kids are in school, we bought a Trailmanor for school holiday trips.

It’s a 12 hour drive each way to pick it up and we plan to take a week to get back for shakedown trip.

I haven’t had a tow behind before. What are some must have items that we should get before we make the trip to pick it up? Things like:
- towing mirror extensions
- 30 amp surge protector
- leveling blocks
???

Thanks!
James

 

[Bill]

Be sure you have a Class III or IV hitch receiver on your tow vehicle, and that you have a trailer brake controller, properly wired into the 7-pin connector on the rear of the tow vehicle. Review the likely towed weight of the trailer, adding at least 1000 pounds to the rather meaningless "dry weight" spec. Be sure your tow vehicle can handle it - check the manufacturer's tow rating for the make, model, and year you have, and make sure your vehicle meets the fine print in the "When Properly Equipped" description. If you are at all close, get familiar with the concept of a weight-distributing hitch (WDH). Most likely you will not need sway control, but there is nothing wrong with getting a hitch with sway control.

Finally, don't hesitate to ask questions here on the Forum. We have a lot of members with lots of experience, all glad to help. That''s what the Forum is all about.

Bill

 

[rockytrail]

Sorry I wasn’t clear, I meant in terms of accessory items.

I have a Subaru Ascent with an OEM class III hitch and brake controller installed. Unfortunately, as it’s a unibody construction I can’t use a weight distribution hitch. Apparently the electronic sway control is better than nothing.

I’m wondering if there’s any towing/camping accessories I should consider.

Thanks

 

[wbmiller3]

Spare fuses.
Screwdriver kit with square bit.
Ratchet straps so you can tow it home if the holddown latches fail (if yours is new, probably can wait on this one).
Blue tote.
Plastic jerry can for carrying water to fill fresh tank when in federal campgrounds.
Water stealer for using hose to fill fresh tank when in federal campgrounds.
Wheel chocks.

 

[Shane826]

“Ratchet straps so you can tow it home if the holddown latches fail (if yours is new, probably can wait on this one)”

Strangely enough the new ones seem to fail easier. Then use a pop rivet instead of a steel pound rivet. I’ve had two of them break. I’ve found a way to “bulletproof” the latches, I’ll put a video together.

 

[Albercook]

“Ratchet straps so you can tow it home if the holddown latches fail (if yours is new, probably can wait on this one)”

Strangely enough the new ones seem to fail easier. Then use a pop rivet instead of a steel pound rivet. I’ve had two of them break. I’ve found a way to “bulletproof” the latches, I’ll put a video together.

We have had the latches come off during travel. I think there is just too much flex in our trailer. Maybe because it is older. 2010.

I was thinking of adding retainers od some sort so even if the trailer flexes enough for the latch to lift off the hook that it stays held tight to the camper and re-engages when the force that caused the distortion is gone.

Is this the issue that you addressed? Did you have a chance to make that video?

 

[Shane826]

Are you talking about out the corner latches? If so get the latches with the lock loops. Then put a small carabiner in the loops.

Amazon.com

 

[Albercook]

Thanks. I have those but even with the small carabiners installed they came loose. I think there is enough flex in the system for the hooks to lift and come off. They only need to lift 1/4".

 

[Bill]

Albercook is right - we experienced the "comes off anyway" issue that he described. We initially cured it by screwing down the hook part of the latch a couple turns, but soon discovered that if you screw it down too far, the "comes off anyway" issue becomes the "pulls the latch out of the wall" issue. There is a Goldilocks zone in the adjustment range, where neither issue results. It takes some experimentation to find it.

 

[Albercook]

Did anything bad happen when the hooks came loose? I can't see the back top coming up unless the front does and the wind should push it back and down. Maybe they could just bounce around a bit?

 

[Kidkraz]

Sorry if this seems like a silly question. Does anyone lock the latches with a clip or small lock to prevent them from unlatching? I get too much flex causing unlatching, but if they’re pretty snug, having a clip on the lock loop, should in theory prevent the unlatching and separation.

 

[Bill]

Did anything bad happen when the hooks came loose?

No. The actual hold-down of the shells is accomplished by the big center latches. Many years ago, I asked the Tennessee factory what the corner latches were for. Didn't get an answer. I think that they are intended simply to gentle-out the minor bounces that inevitably happen to the shells, since the shells rest on soft surfaces. Again my guess is that if the center latches are set properly, there will be only a very small bounce - not enough to disengage the corner latches. But I could be wrong.