Changing tires

[greasyford]

Do I need to open the trailer to change tires on my 2002 2720sl.

 

[Shrimpburrito]

That has always been my understanding. While you can get to all the nuts with the shells down, there is not adequate clearance between the wheel well cover and the tire to pull the wheel off the hub. And you cannot take the cover off without lifting the shells, but even if you could, you would just have the shells right there instead of the cover.

And yes, I have lifted the shells a few times on the side of the road to change a tire. It ain't fun. But after changing to load range E tires, I no longer have blowouts.

Dave

 

[Bill]

As Dave says, all conventional TMs require you to open the shells. You also need to remove the fender skirt. The new TM Sport model (not the old 2518 or 2126 Sport) might be an exception, but its specs are not out yet.

The fact that you are asking the question suggests that you have not yet had the pleasure of changing a tire. Let me suggest very strongly that you do it once or twice at home. You want to learn in your driveway, not beside a narrow two-lane or a busy Interstate. A dry run at home will acquaint you with the sequence of operations and the tools you need to have at hand.

I can change a TM tire in 10 minutes, from pull over to pull away. But it took me several agonizing and dangerous experiences to learn. It would have been nice to have a tutorial ahead of time, and I have considered writing one for the Technical Library if anyone is interested.

Bill

 

[rickst29]

You won't need to raise both shells all the way up, but you will need about 6" of rise. You must absolutely NOT use the corner levelers to raise one side (the side with the bad tire) higher than the other -- the TM will slip downhill on those levelers, sideways, if you don't keep it perfectly level. You will need to disconnect the hitch. You should leave the TM connected at the hitch ball and set the parking brakes on the tow vehicle. First, if you use a WDH, you will need to loosen or disconnect your weight distribution tension bars. In order to remove the wheel well cover, you will need a #2 square drive screwdriver in the tow vehicle. You should already have a torque wrench, with sockets for both the TM and the tow vehicle, and you should also have a 6" long extension for that wrench and socket set - you need the extension to to reach into the TM wheel hub from outside of the TM lower body panels. You should also have a decent 12V air pump in the tow vehicle - and that pump must be able to able push tires up to the pressure values which trailer tires require.

If you use jack stands and a different jack, you can raise one side higher than the other. But you need to be sure to put down blocks, in order to prevent sliding, and you need to have good emergency lighting if you are doing the change on a roadway shoulder.

First get the spare on the ground, and re-inflate using the 12V air pump which you keep in the tow vehicle. Then loosen the lug nuts on the mounted wheel partway (while the wheel and damaged tire are still on the ground, because it is much harder to loosen fully tightened lug nuts after the wheel has been raised to spin in free air.) Set at least one of your jack stands and begin raising the trailer. NEVER GO UNDERNEATH THE TRAILER OR FRAME EDGE WHILE IT HAS BEEN RAISED. While raising the TM, raise your jack stands an additional notch as soon you have room to move their locking pins for more height, or add blocks underneath them.

After raising enough, check that the wheel with the bad tire is capable of rotating on the hub - because a a "burned bearing" type of problem will quickly destroy your spare, just as quickly as it destroyed your original tire. The remove the nuts and wheel with the bad tire.

Next check for damage to the hub, brakes, and brake wires, then use a dry cloth to clean the "bolts" of the wheel hub to be both dry and fairly clean without dirt, and without any grease or oil residue). Then put the spare in place, hand tighten the lug nuts and make sure that the wheel is vertical on the wheel hub. Then tighten the lug nuts to about 40-50 foot-pounds in an alternating pattern.

Lower the tire to the ground - not all the way, but enough the re-torque the lug nuts without causing the wheel to spin. First to 80 lbs (in an alternating pattern) then up to specification - about 100 lbs IIRC. 110 is probably OK and unlikely to damage the hub threads, but do not go higher.

Put the bad wheel+ tire up into the carrier. Re-hitch the trailer, then check that all of your blocks, jack stands, jacks, and leveler jacks are raised. The start the truck and test the brakes before driving.

 

[Bill]

Wow! I didn't realize that Rick and I have a number of very different opinions and experiences on how to change a tire! We are both old-timers with TMs, and we both have done it a number of times, so I think you can follow either discussion without major fears. The biggest items for both of us are probably: Be prepared, with all the tools and equipment needed and easily accessible. And do a couple relaxed practice runs before leaving home.

Bill

 

[Shrimpburrito]

I would argue that not only should you NOT disconnect the TM from the TV, but you should in fact make a point to leave them connected. The TV will add much needed braking power to the TM while you change the tire. If the TV doesn't move, neither will the TM. You don't need to lift the TM very high off the ground of course to change the tire. Even an inch or two is more than sufficient.

I can change a TM tire in 10 minutes, from pull over to pull away.

Dang, Bill! You're a pit boss!!

Dave

 

[rickst29]

I would argue that not only should you NOT disconnect the TM from the TV, but you should in fact make a point to leave them connected. The TV will add much needed braking power to the TM while you change the tire. If the TV doesn't move, neither will the TM. You don't need to lift the TM very high off the ground of course to change the tire. Even an inch or two is more than sufficient.



Dang, Bill! You're a pit boss!!

Dave

You're correct, leave the hitch connected. I meant to speak of only the the WDH tension bars, and I wrote the post in a hurry. I corrected it, thanks!

 

[greasyford]

That has always been my understanding. While you can get to all the nuts with the shells down, there is not adequate clearance between the wheel well cover and the tire to pull the wheel off the hub. And you cannot take the cover off without lifting the shells, but even if you could, you would just have the shells right there instead of the cover.

And yes, I have lifted the shells a few times on the side of the road to change a tire. It ain't fun. But after changing to load range E tires, I no longer have blowouts.

Dave

Thanks!

 

[larsdennert]

I have done it on the side of the freeway using the stab jacks without opening the shells on my 2003 2720 with the lift kit and the 14" wheels. It was not pleasant but possible. I now have 15" higher load range tires.