Built in step for bed

Hi Karen
I used 3/4 inch cabinet grade ply just because I had it laying around. The lower step is 14 inches deep and the top is 10 inches but I had to add a piece of hard wood to the back of the 10 inch piece because it was bowing. Also, the electrical panel is right where the lower step goes so I had to pull the cover off and apply support strips vertically to it to allow access to the panel. This was just a trial run to see if it would work. The next step is to make it look like it belongs there. Hope this helps Karen.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7304&stc=1&d=1335878707

Pretty nice!
 
Thanks, Yoda, Good pictures and I understood your directions totally. Only concern for me now is whether they would slip when my dogs jumped up on them but I can put a narrow strip of rug non-slip underneath where the edges rest on the drawers and that should keep them in place.
I like this very much, Thank you for the pictures.

Karen
 
How long does it take to remove the steps and put them back. We are in and out of the rear cabinet and the bottom two drawers frequently throughout the day.
 
How long does it take to remove the steps and put them back. We are in and out of the rear cabinet and the bottom two drawers frequently throughout the day.

Looking at the design it looks like it would be easy which is what I liked most about it. I figured I could just remove them once we get up & then replace them in the evening.

This really is a neat concept IMO.
 
Hi Billy
They are so easy to put in and out. They actually fit side by side in the back of the fold down closet for storage. Maybe I will add a couple of latches to the back of the closet to secure them while in route. Still working on design improvements.
Cliff

Thanks Cliff,

I really am thinking this is going to be one of my next TM projects since I have never like the two folding steps we have used in the past. Im going to cheat though if you are OK with it :D & let you keep improving design for now since I am deep into my boat :D projects for now & we don't plan on any TM trips until later in year at this time.

The portability was something I really liked about your design & it just seems safer than the current folding steps we have IMO.

Another question though how did you attach the wood to the wall?
 
My next concern becomes 250 pounds of static load, quite likely in the center of the step.

I am not concerned about the step itself. Just make it thicker.

My concern is more about the attachment points to the TM walls.
 
My next concern becomes 250 pounds of static load, quite likely in the center of the step.

I am not concerned about the step itself. Just make it thicker.

My concern is more about the attachment points to the TM walls.

I had those concerns also but have already thought of a couple of different possible fixes if needed. It is still the best idea I have seen that also doesn't take away existing storage space.

Now I think with the extra reenforcing Cliff added it will work fine for me & my wife who are nowhere near over weight. I was actually more concerned with weight on drawers but after he clarified how it works I'm not so concerned over that.

Also I really like the idea of the steps being stored in wardrobe, Great place IMO
 
O.K. Here is what I came up with:
1. Added vertical supports for the upper step similar to the lower step
this should help spread the support to the floor
2. Put 6 inch UHMW tape above the upper support to protect the wall
3. Sanded and stained the wood for contrast







picture.php


That is what one of my solutions was going to be for the top step.
 
This is really nice. And steps would only probably be in place for the evening?
Hmm. Thinking about this really hard.

Thanks for all the pictures, Yoda!

Karen
 
4. Attachment to the wall is with anchored screws, haven't yet but will probably glue them too

Are these anchors thru the wall side to side or?

Picture is too small on phone for me to see really well.
 
Billy,
The screws go all the way through. On the bathroom side I used large washers to spread the load and putting the screws all of the way through the support using carpentry nuts that are pressed into the support, these screws ended up being 3 1/2 inches above the tub. Since the walls are so flimsy, I opted to add vertical supports to relieve most of the strain on the screws so that the screws are just holding up the support, the weight of the step is actually being supported by the vertical supports. Right now the vertical supports are just wedged in between the floor and the horizontal support. For safety I will probably end up gluing and screwing them in place. The problem with these supports is that they are below the edge of the tub so I will probably use rivet screws there. I think there are a dozen different ways this concept could be utilized. I just opted for what was easy, functional yet still visually appealing. I also thing if more weight needs to be supported, additional or more substantial support options could easily be added.
Hopes this helps Billy
 

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Steps

Here is what we currently have to access the rear bed.
It is a homemade foot stool that opens up for storage. When in transit it stores in front of the folded closet. It is also used as a extra seat in the living area.
 

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New to this discussion, and very grateful for not having to reinvent the wheel to solve this problem. For me, it's mainly a matter of getting the dog up to, and down from, the bed. And the bed is ~2 inches higher since we got the mattress topper that DW requested.

I'm going to try Yoda's idea, and may make a couple of minor adjustments. Instead of gluing the vertical step braces to the bathroom wall, I'll use Velcro. That way, there's a little play--just enough to allow for any slight movement under load, but not enough to break the bond, as might happen with glue. I'll see how robust the steps seem as just 3/4" boards, but may strengthen them with 1-by-2s attached underneath.

Another modification--and I'll take a closer look at this when I get to the actual construction--might be to attach the upper horizontal support to the space just to the right of the under-bed storage door. It's wood, so provides more strength than anything attached to the (as you say) flimsy bathroom wall.

Bottom line, I think the idea of using steps supported at the drawers and the bathroom wall is a winner. I'll post again after I install my version.

Ken Franklin


Billy,
The screws go all the way through. On the bathroom side I used large washers to spread the load and putting the screws all of the way through the support using carpentry nuts that are pressed into the support, these screws ended up being 3 1/2 inches above the tub. Since the walls are so flimsy, I opted to add vertical supports to relieve most of the strain on the screws so that the screws are just holding up the support, the weight of the step is actually being supported by the vertical supports. Right now the vertical supports are just wedged in between the floor and the horizontal support. For safety I will probably end up gluing and screwing them in place. The problem with these supports is that they are below the edge of the tub so I will probably use rivet screws there. I think there are a dozen different ways this concept could be utilized. I just opted for what was easy, functional yet still visually appealing. I also thing if more weight needs to be supported, additional or more substantial support options could easily be added.
Hopes this helps Billy
 
Ken, the stool that comes with the TM is a single step. What Padgett (and I) have is two steps up, making access to the rear bed much simpler. I don't even carry the single-step stool anymore.
 
Just a thought but when I had a cat that became infirm, I built a lot of ramps from 1x6 & stapled on carpeting he could just walk up. You could just make one that hooks on the bed and is about three feet long.
 
Single step to the TM bed

As promised, here is the step I just installed in my 2720SL. It's 3/4" plywood, about 2 feet square, with a piece of cheap carpet stapled to it for (the dog's) traction. Support on the left, per Yoda's design, is the middle drawer. Support on the right is two pieces of 1-by-3 red oak, with angle brackets at both ends. The vertical support is screwed to the bathroom wall from inside the bathroom (I discarded the Velcro idea).
It's a single step, about 18 inches above the floor--adequate for the dog's use, and, augmented by our folding stool, for humans as well. It's plenty strong for us, and the step stores easily in the wardrobe or anywhere else that has a 2-foot space.



Ken Franklin
 

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As promised, here is the step I just installed in my 2720SL. It's 3/4" plywood, about 2 feet square, with a piece of cheap carpet stapled to it for (the dog's) traction. Support on the left, per Yoda's design, is the middle drawer. Support on the right is two pieces of 1-by-3 red oak, with angle brackets at both ends. The vertical support is screwed to the bathroom wall from inside the bathroom (I discarded the Velcro idea).
It's a single step, about 18 inches above the floor--adequate for the dog's use, and, augmented by our folding stool, for humans as well. It's plenty strong for us, and the step stores easily in the wardrobe or anywhere else that has a 2-foot space.



Ken Franklin
___________________________
Sweet....Yup, our main consideration is for the pup. Thanks.
 

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