Brake Replacement Advice Needed - 2004 3124KS (searched already!)

whySKIPdodis

New Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2023
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6
Hi fellow TrailManor owners,

I'm planning a preventative brake replacement on my 2004 3124KS (assumed 5200lb axle) and would appreciate some guidance from those who've tackled this job before. I'm planning to install Nev-R-Adjust brake assemblies on both sides, but want to make sure I'm not missing anything critical.

Looking at the brake components (see attached diagram), I have a few questions:

  1. Beyond the Nev-R-Adjust brake assemblies, what other parts should I plan to replace while I'm in there?
  2. If the bearings are in good condition and I repack them, can I reuse the existing hub assembly?
  3. Should I automatically replace the spindle washers and castle nuts, or only if they show wear?
  4. Are there any special tools needed beyond standard brake service tools?
  5. What's a reasonable time estimate for this job?
  6. For reference, I'm looking at these Nev-R-Adjust assemblies: https://a.co/d/gx7mRZK and https://a.co/d/i7ZDZJX

This brake job is part of my ongoing restoration/maintenance project, which you can follow here: https://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21700

Any tips, tricks, or "wish I had known before I started" advice would be greatly appreciated!

I've looked at the following forums:

Thanks in advance!
 

Attachments

  • Hub and drum..jpg
    Hub and drum..jpg
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  1. Beyond the Nev-R-Adjust brake assemblies, what other parts should I plan to replace while I'm in there?
The list I posted in the 2nd thread you referenced above has all the parts I use. Part numbers are off of Easternmarine.com:
  1. 5331006 10" x 2-1/4" Electric Brake Assy. - Right Hand / 3.5k
  2. 5331005 10" x 2-1/4" Electric Brake Assy. - Left Hand / 3.5k
  3. 1590022 Timken® 1-1/16" Bearing Cup & Cone Set
  4. 1590025 Timken® 1-3/8" Bearing Cup & Cone Set
  5. 5257018 1" ID Round - TANG Washer
  6. 5331097 DEXTER 1.72" ID Grease Seal #010-019-00 (Dexter part #)
  1. If the bearings are in good condition and I repack them, can I reuse the existing hub assembly?
The hub is part of the brake drum -- it's all one part. So if you replace the drum, which I advise doing since both the brake shoe surface AND the inside face of the drum that rubs the magnet wear, and you almost certainly will not find any shop that resurfaces drums that can resurface that inside face, you will also be replacing the hub. If you don't, your brand new shoes will wear unevenly. The drum comes with a set of bearings, but they are Chinese-made Dexter-branded bearings. They may be good, but owing to a history of tire blowouts, I discard those and replace them with USA-made (or at least they traditionally have been) Timken-brand bearings, and have never had a problem since.
  1. Should I automatically replace the spindle washers and castle nuts, or only if they show wear?
Yes, you should replace the spindle/tang washer regardless because you bend a tab into the nut to lock the nut. You can get away with reusing the tang washer once, but I personally wouldn't go more than that because you risk breaking the tab off due to metal fatigue. They are super cheap -- maybe $1-$2 -- so I just replace them as a matter of course. I don't replace the castle nut -- if it shows wear, there are likely other problems that need remedy.
  1. Are there any special tools needed beyond standard brake service tools?
Not really. A bearing packer is helpful. I use this one:
Amazon.com

And you will need some butt connectors to wire up the new magnet. DO NOT use wire nuts like the factory does -- you are begging for brake failure. I use marine grade (Ancor-brand) butt connectors with heat shrink pre-attached that have heat-activated adhesive on the inside that seals the connection from elements. They are pricey (maybe $1 each?), but cheaper when bought in bulk. I bought a case of 100 or so different connectors for maybe $70 years ago and have only had to restock 1 or 2 different sizes/types.
  1. What's a reasonable time estimate for this job?
Double whatever you estimate. It's hugely variable, based on what tools you're using, whether they are at the ready, you have all your parts and materials on hand, and of course your skill level. I'd give yourself a half day, but start in the morning in case you have to go longer.

Dave
 

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