Bike racks on the rear bumper?

Bill

Senior Member
Site Team
RV LIFE Pro
Joined
Feb 1, 2003
Posts
10,329
Location
The mtns of AZ, and the beaches of Maine
A perennial topic on this board is the addition of a bike rack on the rear bumper. Several people have experienced sway when they do this, and the question is, WHY does it cause sway? The usual answer is that the weight of the bikes, mounted so far behind the wheels, reduces the hitch weight, which in turn causes sway. I admit I’ve had some trouble with this explanation.

First let me say that I thoroughly believe in the importance of proper weight distribution. A properly-loaded TM does not sway, and I support the idea that this is because the wheels are located aft of the center of gravity. And there is no question that moving the CG backward substantially would increase the tendency to sway.

But I’m not convinced that putting 70 pounds of bikes on the back bumper changes the CG enough to make the TM sway. As Denny pointed out, for each pound you add to the back bumper, you remove about 2/3 of a pound of hitch weight, so 70 pounds of bikes removes 45 pounds from the hitch. When the starting hitch weight is in the neighborhood of 500 pounds, though, 45 pounds just doesn’t seem like enough to have a real effect. (Note that since hitch weight is an indicator of the CG’s location, and is easier to measure, we talk about hitch weight rather than actual CG location.)

Why don’t I think it is enough? There are many common ways to change the hitch weight by 45 (or more!) pounds. For example, are your propane tanks full or empty? That’s 40 pounds right there. Do you carry the microwave on the floor aft of the refrigerator, or in front on the couch? And in the SL models, where the battery is located near the bumper, did you replace the factory battery (46 pounds) with a pair of golf-cart batteries (122 pounds) for a 76 pound weight gain at the rear bumper? That step alone is remarkably similar to adding bikes on the rear bumper. But none of these things seems to cause sway.

So if it isn’t the weight on the bumper, what accounts for the tendency to sway when bikes are mounted back there?

I first thought about aerodynamics. Could the slipstream coming over the top of the trailer be catching the bikes, and causing wind buffeting? Maybe, but since the bikes are largely shielded from the wind, I couldn’t convince myself. I gave up on that idea.

After a lot of thought, I’ve concluded that the problem may be bounce, not sway. These single-point-mount bike racks are VERY flexible. If you put your bikes on the rack, and then put your hand on the top of the rack and push hard, it will flex and the bikes will move up-and-forward 2 or 3 inches. And if you pull back, the bikes will move down-and-back 2 or 3 inches. At highway speed (especially on one of those cursed concrete roads in the south and midwest), the whole package - 70 pounds of bikes and carrier - begins to bounce repetitively, up and down, up and down. The bouncing motion could be converted to sway if the rack is mounted off center, but in most cases I would bet that the driver is simply feeling the bounce of the 70 pound package, which could easily be mistaken for sway.

By the way, this continuous bouncing is what breaks the welds where the bumper is attached to the frame, as reported by a couple people.

At this point, this is pure hypothesis. But if it is right, the answer is to mount the bikes on a carrier that doesn’t flex, or is restrained by straps that go forward over the top of the TM to a solid anchor point. Anyone own such a carrier? Are there any of these on the market? I don’t know – but I’ll look.

Any thoughts?

Bill
 
FYI, there is a double mount bike rack for trailer bumpers (one wheel fits in each rack; some will accomodate two wheels in each rack therefore two bikes. So it's still attached to the bumper, but one on each end rather than a single mount in the middle. They are bolt-on-fall-down-simple units that even I can install.

Ther reason I know about these racks is that a nice guy named Ted Smith gave me one in Santa Fe this summer when he found it necessary to "lighten his load" because the bumper on the new trailer he bought (not a TM) was bending due to the weight of the bike racks and his storage rack on which he was carrying a big tool box and a portable generator. Ted and his wife were camped next to us and when we got ready to leave he pointed at the pile and told us to take anything we could use. So we did.

I was tickled to get them (but haven't installed them since we haven't gone anywhere since) but nice to know they exist. And they will be especially nice for us since we ride the long-wheelbase recumbent bikes.
 
Bill,

Our experience with TM sway has been much the same as others on the board. My wife and I transport our tandem in a rear bumper mounted rack. With the rack and bike mounted, we experience a slight amount of sway. No sway is experienced when the rack and bike are not mounted. We have installed a Reese Friction Sway control unit, and inspite of the negative experiences others have reported with such units, we have had good results. As I said, the sway was only slight, but the friction unit seems to put a stop to it.

Michael
 
Hmmm - That's good input, Michael. I'll have to go back and revisit my theory. If, as I theorized, the problem was bounce, then a friction sway control would not have cured it.

Still (he said, clutching at straws), I have seen more than one trailer go by with the bikes bouncing steadily up and down, up and down ...

Bill
 
Has anyone considered the changes in aerodynamics and not the weight distribution? Don't know if a bike would change the aerodynamics that much, but I know the faster I go over a certain speed, the more sway I have on my 3124ks.
Of course that certain speed is 75 mph -- as fast as I dare go.
I live in Colorado and constantly go up and down I-70 with my 6 cyl 2000 4-runner and can get speed downhill very easily.... 35-40 mph uphill on the 7% grades.
I have air shocks "100 psi when towing" and no sway bar or equalizer hitch. May consider buying the equilzer hitch.http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=16323#
New Eyecrazy
 
Get the Weight Distributing Hitch IMMEDIATELY!!!!

ddnavar said:
Has anyone considered the changes in aerodynamics and not the weight distribution? Don't know if a bike would change the aerodynamics that much, but I know the faster I go over a certain speed, the more sway I have on my 3124ks.
Of course that certain speed is 75 mph -- as fast as I dare go.
I live in Colorado and constantly go up and down I-70 with my 6 cyl 2000 4-runner and can get speed downhill very easily.... 35-40 mph uphill on the 7% grades.
I have air shocks "100 psi when towing" and no sway bar or equalizer hitch. May consider buying the equilzer hitch.http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=16323#
New Eyecrazy
The reason you have sway isn't aerodynamics, it's mostly because you're unwisely using air shocks to level your 4-Runner and partly because a 3124KS is just too long a trailer for your 4-Runner.

The air shocks are masking a fairly severe front/rear loading on your 4-Runner's suspension...and that's where most of your sway is coming from. When you hookup a trailer with a heavy hitch weight like the 3124KS (probably around 600 lbs), you're not only pushing the rear end down, you're also causing the front end to rise through a teeter-totter effect with the rear axle as the fulcrum. Because 200 to 300 lbs of weight was taken off the front end, your front tires have much less control over the vehicle and much less ability to fight transients coming from the trailer. The net effect is you get sway. The 2000 4-Runner is a short (105 inch) wheelbase vehicle that's barely long enough to control a 24 foot trailer; raising its front suspension is making a bad situation a lot worse.

Then when you raised the rear suspension with the air shocks to make the 4-Runner level, both ends are now actually higher than stock. That makes a dangerous situation even worse...much worse. Reason: on the rear axle of your vehicle is a Brake Proportioning Valve. Its purpose is to limit the amount of brake pressure on the rear brakes when the vehicle is lightly loaded (to prevent lockup) and to enable more rear braking when the vehicle is loaded (rear suspension compressed). By raising the rear of the 4-Runner to level it with the too-high front, you've basically closed this valve and your rear brakes are doing virtually no braking...your front brakes are doing almost the braking. And worse, those front brakes are trying to brake tires that only have about 80% of their normal friction because the front end has been unweighted.

The bottom line is air shocks are downright dangerous and should be banned from the market. AIR SHOCKS SHOULD NEVER BE USED TO LEVEL A TOW VEHICLE.

You can solve all this by simply getting a weight distributing hitch. Then, instead of the front suspension being unweighted, it will be additonally weighted with about a third of the hitch weight. So instead of removing about 200 lbs from the front, you'll be adding 200 lbs. That additional 400 lbs on the front will make a huge improvement in your ability to steer and your sway problems will very likely mostly disappear. The sway may not entirely disappear because your trailer is simply too long for your 4-Runner to fully control.

And even better, because both the front and rear suspension on the 4-Runner are being equally compressed, the Brake Proportioning Valve will be opened more, thus enabling your rear brakes to actually contribute to the overall braking effort.

As is, your rig is so marginally controlled that I shudder at the thought of having to share a Colorado highway with you.
 
Ray's mention of the possibility of air shocks affecting the Brake Proportioning Valve rang my bell. Like many Honda Odyssey owners who frequent the Odyssey owners site, we have installed Airlift bags in our rear coil springs to inprove handling while both towing and solo. The bags only lift the unloaded rear of the van about 1/4" when pumped to 20 psi (which is where we normally run them) but keep it from squatting and wallowing while running loaded. I've found them to be an overall handling improvement but the possibility they are compromising our ABS brake system concerns me.

Hitched to our TM2619 with a 400/4000 one-armed WDH (no sway bar) we are level and weigh out at 2660 front axle, 2640 rear and 2890 trailer axle - all of which are within spec but we are uncomfortably close to GCWR. The Odyssey weighs 4300 dry, has an 118 wheelbase and we have experienced absolutely no sway (as in zip) in 14k miles of towing in the 55-70 mph range under a variety of condition and up to about 5000 ft. We've had no braking problems but have habitually avoided panic braking situations so our brakes have never been tested under severe conditions.

Anyone see a problem with our setup? yes I know a more capable TV would be nice, and I'm looking, but finding something as versatile and even close to as fuel efficient as the Odyssey has alluded me so far.

Frank
 
Bill said:
Hmmm - That's good input, Michael. I'll have to go back and revisit my theory. If, as I theorized, the problem was bounce, then a friction sway control would not have cured it.

Still (he said, clutching at straws), I have seen more than one trailer go by with the bikes bouncing steadily up and down, up and down ...

Bill

Bill,

The bike rack we use is a solid mount type. By that I mean the front wheel of the bike is removed, the fork is secured to the rack with a quick disconnect, and the rear tire is strapped to the rack. I also use ratcheting tie-down straps from each end of the rack to the rear bumper of the TM. The hitch is a single point receiver type, but the straps prevent any bouncing action by the rack.

Michael
 
Thanks Ray -- I have panic stopped at red lights on off the I-70 ramps that are quite steep... > 10% grade with the 4-runner and the 3124ks. I have had to apply more brake pressure than I would like to -- so I will be going to the hitch store and buying an equalizer hitch.. You have convinced me to buy one. I use a Protogy brake controller and have had to increase the braking on the trailer for it's weight.
 
Purchased the Equal-i-zer hitch -- works well

After realizing that I had created a brake and steering problem with my air shocks on my 4-runner and the 3124ks TM, I purchased the 1000 lb, equal-i-zer hitch.

Went to Las Vegas from Denver over I-70 this last week and it did improve the bounce, steering and brakeing considerably. It was very stable with no sway even in the strong winds I encountered.

"Good purchase".

Only problem I have now is the noise that the swing arms and L brackets have when turning.
Does anyone know of a fiber spacer one can put on the swing arms or L brackets to reduce the metal to metal noise???
 
Simple Explanation about cause of Swaying

Bill said:
A perennial topic on this board is the addition of a bike rack on the rear bumper. Several people have experienced sway when they do this, and the question is, WHY does it cause sway? The usual answer is that the weight of the bikes, mounted so far behind the wheels, reduces the hitch weight, which in turn causes sway. I admit I’ve had some trouble with this explanation.

Bill
I missed this discussion when it first started and only recently came upon it. I'm surprised that Bill, my friend, doesn't understand the mechanics of swaying, but then, I've excused him because he's merely an electrical engineer. ;-) Now, Bill, you don't need to remark about my total ignorance concerning electrical devices and circuitry.

I've attached a drawing that may help most of you to understand why swaying occurs. First, let me define some engineering terms:
"Moment" is the product of an applied force and the "Moment arm" through which the force is applied. The "Moment" of a force is the force's tendency to cause rotation of an object around a point, such as a hinge pin.
"Fulcrum" is the term used for the point of rotation such as a hinge pin.
"Frictional resistance" refers to the force that resists the sliding of one object over another.

The attached drawing depicts the trailer's original center of gravity (CG) as a circle. This CG is located 2.4 from the hitch ball, or fulcrum (the numbers don't represent real distances, but are distances in inches of my model) and the tires meet the road's surface at 4.8 from the fulcrum.

When this trailer is towed straight behind the tow vehicle, the lateral forces exerted on the trailer are zero. A lateral force can be exerted on the trailer, however, from wind gusts or the drivers swerving quickly (due to a directional change of "Momentum"). A strong gust of wind striking the trailer's right side, for example, will result in a lateral force that exerts itself through the trailer's CG. This force creates a moment that attempts to rotate the trailer clockwise around the hitch ball. The main force resisting this is that due to the frictional resistance of the tires against the roadway. The moment created by this frictional resistance is the product of the frictional resistance and its moment arm. This counterclockwise moment attempts to keep the trailer from rotating clockwise around the hitch ball. Since frictional resistance is created in reaction to the lateral force, its moment can only equal that of the lateral force's moment but can never exceed it.

With properly inflated tires, sufficient tire tread and a dry roadway, there is a high value of frictional resistance. In a well-designed trailer such as our TMs frictional resistance's moment is more than adequate to counterbalance the lateral force's moment trying to swing the trailer to the left. No swaying occurs in this instance.

The two moments are equal and
Lateral Force X 2.4 = Frictional Resistance X 4.8

Notice that the frictional resistance's force in this instance is only half that of the lateral force.

Now if one loads heavy objects rearward of the axle, the trailer's CG shifts rearward. Assume that loading bicycles and batteries on its rear bumper pushes the CG to its new position, 3.6 from the hitch ball. That same gust of wind now creates a moment equal to:

Lateral Force X 3.6, or one that is 50% greater than the previous moment.

The frictional resistance of the tires on the roadway will increase to counterbalance the clockwise turning moment. If there is sufficient frictional resistance to generate a moment equaling the lateral force's moment, no sway will occur. If the lateral force's moment exceeds the frictional resistance's moment by just a small amount, the driver may notice only a slight swaying motion. If the wind gust strikes the trailer while it is on a wet, icy or oily roadway, however, the moment of the diminished frictional resistance may not be able to significantly counterbalance the clockwise turning tendency. In this instance the swaying will be severe; it can result in the driver's loss of control and overturning of trailer and tow vehicle (this happened to friends of ours several months ago). You can see that continuing to put too much load on the rear part of the trailer will move the CG even farther rearward. Then towing becomes dangerous as even a slight swerving to the right or left can result in severe swaying.

You are correct, Bill, in stating that we cannot easily determine the location of the CGs of our loaded trailers. We can, however, use the load on the trailer's tongue as a rough indication of the altered CG's location. I'd venture to guess that the tongue load should increase by at least 10% of the weight added to a trailer. This means that if our empty trailer's tongue load is 400 lb. and we add 1,000 lb. of stuff to a trailer, the tongue load should increase by 100 lb. on a properly loaded trailer. Isn't this a good argument for purchasing a tongue scale - such as the ones that Camping World sells?

My explanation may be a simplified one but I believe that I've covered the major forces in play that can result in a trailers swaying.
 
Last edited:
Our towing experience is limited to the TrailManor, one 5th wheel trailer and a few boats and I don't claim to be an expert but IMHO the bow wave from passing trucks is the most likely sway producer. The force they exert on one end of a trailer is switched to the opposite end as the truck passes and this causes sway that will be felt in the cab no matter how competent the tow vehicle is. Those big rigs can put an improperly set-up TV/trailer in the ditch on an otherwise windless day.

Frank

Non Of The Above.
 
Last edited:
eliminate trailer sway the easy way

My 3124KB is light enough for this hitch: it's perfect and don't listen to anyone who's never used one. try it yourself they offer 60days money back (but you'll never use it)
Hensley Cub
 
I had a friend who had a regular Hensley hitch and he loved it, but it was not cheap...it also got a little finicky when he unhitched and his tv and rig were not perfectly level.
 
bike rack alternative...

I just picked up a 2006 TM 3023 (with the front bunk) that doesn't have a 2" receiver hitch on the rear bumper. As an alternative to adding a receiver hitch to the rear bumper I am thinking of using one of these:
ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t


This would allow me to mount the bike rack above the hitch mounted to my TV (2013 Toyota Tacoma, 6 cyl., 6500 lb tow rating, factory tow package, currently no weight distribution hitch, but do have a prodigy brake controller)

Have you heard of anyone using something like this to tow a TM? Also, am I right in guessing that this is probably not compatible with a weight distribution hitch?

Thanks for any thoughts/insights.

Gregg
 
With out a WDH if you read the fine print your ratings are #500 tongue and #5000 draw weight. Tongue weights on TM's are much higher then folks think. Typically in the #500 range. Now add in the weight of how many bikes.

High dollar composite bike frames will be lightest of course but two typical wally world bikes are going to add 80 to 100 pounds or more.

The bike carriers I am familiar with won't work on a WDH.
 
We have a 2 bike swagman on the back of our trail manor , the kind with the hooks on the middle bars and ratchets down the tires. We have never had sway, of course our highest speed is 55-60 mph. Couldn't be happier with it.
 
Entirely new bumper

We have been struggling with how to carry our bikes since picking our rig up last year. The best option we had was the rear bumper rack but the factory option just isn't substantial enough. After spending the last 12 months looking for a ready made solution we gave up and made one. It helps to have a brother who loves to weld. We ended up cutting the paper thin rear bumper off then fabricating a new bumper by welding a receiver tube into 2"x3"x3/16" steel tube. This was then welded on the TM where the old bumper was and the white plastic cover replaced. We then cut the 2" receiver square out of the bumper cover for access. This weekend will be the trial run and I will report back on results. If it causes sway I will redistribute the moveable weigh to increase tongue weight but I don't think that will be a problem. If anyone is coming to the New England rally you could see it in person. If nothing else I now have a bomb-proof bumper for a total net weight increase of 12 pounds. (I will have a shorter bar prior to travel...the one in the pictures is from an older setup.)

IMG_2711 (Large).JPGIMG_2720 (Large).JPGIMG_2738 (Large).JPGIMG_2757 (Large).JPGIMG_2760 (Large).JPG
 

New posts

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom