A poor man’s Sealand alternative

Great mod, and excellent presentation!

I am not a plumber, so I am asking for a description for the white pvc 1-1/2" fitting
that goes on the tank for the air vent connection. I have searched, but nothing found.

Again, great job, kind of like putting the icing on the Trailmanor cake! :)

I am accumulating parts, and so far, I have the tank and vent. Thank goodness for that.
 
Another poor man's....

I figured out what fittings were needed for the exhaust line, and completed the toilet,
per DudeAbides plans. I actually had issues getting all the parts, but that's another
story of the times. :new_Eyecr

The pic of the tank shows that I did not use the pvc side panels, even though I had
them mostly ready. I decided to paint the tank and hope for the best. I did trim the lip
of the back of the tank to shorten it for more room in the front area.

Note that the
tank sits on a 1/2" of plywood as a shim. That is from a prior mod that I posted on the
forum in plumbing. The tank just clears the TM wheelwell support wood piece, with
its inward tapered sides. I sprayed foam sealant up into the newly expanded hole,
and that also sealed the tank in place.

I used the same black pipe for the drain line, after installing a new valve that is now
positioned higher.

Thanks again to DudeAbides and others who contributed! :)

Thanks again to DudeAbides and others who contributed. :)

The new water line needed foam insulation, and the sharkbite fittings were tedious to
install. They do work good.

All in all, this is a major improvement, and has much versatility. I will carry a 10 gallon
portable waste tank and this will cover current camping waste handling.
 

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adding level sensors to the black tank?

Looks good! I am about to start mine shortly, if the weather holds. Had a couple of other home repair jobs that were much higher on the "get it done before winter" list.
What paint did you use for the tank? Rustoleum or something like it? I'm going to build a white mdf frame around the rim for aesthetics and additional support, but I want to paint the top.

I'm also considering adding in a couple of level sensors before I install it. Thought about swapping out the fresh tank sensor wiring, since I really don't need those - the tank is right under the kitchen sink and it is really easy to keep track of my fresh water level. But with only a 6 gallon black tank, it might be far more useful to swap the wiring to a couple of sensors on that tank instead. I think I would be much more likely to overflow the black tank than run out of water. Plus it would be a far greater disaster (for me!). Anyone try it, and if you did, how did it work out?
 
I used a Valspar pant + primer,

and so good, so far. :) Custom color, and id not known.

To check the black tank level, the flush water can easily be shut off,
and flush pedal pressed, and shine a flashlight into the bottom of the
toilet to see the level in the black tank. ;)
 
Tank rinser?

Has anyone considered adding a tank rinser like this one from Camco? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000BUU5TU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Since I can’t get in when it’s closed to give the toilet an extra flush or two, or spritz it with the shower when I dump at the station (a lot of spots I use only have a dump station) I thought it might be a good idea to add a rotary tank rinser so I can actually get that tank cleared out. Even if I’m in a full service site, it would be nice to be able to properly rinse that black tank clean after dumping without having to go back inside.

That Camco unit exits through the floor so no extra holes through the wall.
Thoughts?
 
I don't have a link. I heard about it and just went under and ran the line. Go from the original 3" drop towards the back of the camper put in an elbow, run across the width of the TM, another elbow to turn the pipe towards the front run pipe until yo get near the wheel add another elbow and run the pipe back to a point just in front of the original toilet drop. Glue on a new valve.

I tee'd into the gray water on the first leg with an 1-1/2" valve between the tank and the tee. Make sure to use strong hangers and ensure that there is a slight drop in height on each pipe run. Total drop for the whole run should be about 1".

No photos as I really wouldn't know how to take a photo of it unless the TM were on a lift. If you go under the camper, you can see that there is really only one path for the pipe to run.

Paul
Is there enough room to add another tank somewhere while doing this mod?
 
Poormans Sealand

The question I have for you is did you find the 8 1/2 gallon holding tank to be big enough? Now that you have used it for a while what if anything would you do different ?

Thanks
 
Has anyone considered adding a tank rinser like this one from Camco? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000BUU5TU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Since I can’t get in when it’s closed to give the toilet an extra flush or two, or spritz it with the shower when I dump at the station (a lot of spots I use only have a dump station) I thought it might be a good idea to add a rotary tank rinser so I can actually get that tank cleared out. Even if I’m in a full service site, it would be nice to be able to properly rinse that black tank clean after dumping without having to go back inside.

That Camco unit exits through the floor so no extra holes through the wall.
Thoughts?

I put the Camco "Tornado" tank cleaner to my tank. It works great. Left rear of this picture. I ran the hose through the tub wall, into the outside shower enclosure, then through the floor. I inserted a 5" long piece of 3/4" PVC pipe (hose clamped on both ends) in the hole through the floor to prevent chafing on the plastic water line.
 

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Can anyone help me out figure what fits in that slot in the top of the tank for the vent
 
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I have a question regarding the bottom outlet on the tank. Does yours have a ~ 1/4" lip inside the tank? I discovered that yesterday (haven't started my install yet) and have sent a question to Icon to ask how a black tank is supposed to completely empty when the drain lip is higher than the bottom of the tank?

I am considering taking my dremel and cutting that proud rim back to be flush with the floor of the tank. And do the same to the threaded hub that I have to put into it. (I also plan to use rectorseal 5 on the threads) I realize that the tank bottom is sloped toward the drain, but with that lip, there will always be a reasonable amount of residual liquid (and other stuff) in the bottom of the tank.

Anyone else that has done this mod find that to be an issue? Or am I overthinking it? I suppose that at the end of a trip I can do a real solid rinse, but with the top down, I can't get into it at the dump station to do a "power wash" from the inside.

I'm in the process of putting this in. I had the same question about that lip. Has anybody ground that lip off so it will drain completely?
 
Hi all, I've not logged in forever since I sold the Trailmanor. An admin had re-uploaded the pics in a different way that was supposed to make them permanent but apparently not! If you search Pete Bellotti on the Trailmanor Fans page on Facebook you can find them there.
 
Deb Mac said:
I'm also considering adding in a couple of level sensors before I install it... Thought about swapping out the fresh tank sensor wiring, it might be far more useful to swap the wiring to a couple of sensors on that tank instead.
Regarding "adding level sensors to the black tank?", remember that the button-type sensors used in the fresh and gray tanks accumulate crud and then fail to work properly. This is a sensor issue, not a wiring issue. If you use button-type sensors in the black tank, I would expect them to accumulate crud much more often. A better solution might be an ultra-sonic level sensor. They work from outside the tank, and not as subject to crud-based problems. E-trailer and RV parts places offer them for around $80.
 
I put the Camco "Tornado" tank cleaner to my tank. It works great. Left rear of this picture. I ran the hose through the tub wall, into the outside shower enclosure, then through the floor. I inserted a 5" long piece of 3/4" PVC pipe (hose clamped on both ends) in the hole through the floor to prevent chafing on the plastic water line.
Hi Wavery. I am about to put my Tornado in place and just had a question about “into the outside shower enclosure” you referred to. I know it is really just on the other side of the tub side wall. Did you actually go into the locked area with the faucets, or just behind that and then down? If you went into the faucet enclosure, did you drill into it between the faucets, or did you remove that whole assembly first, then replace and recaulk?

Getting ready to head out in about 6 weeks, and this is the last interior job that wants doing. Now that the rain seems to have stopped the last outside job is check brakes and do the bearings. And we’re good to go.
 
It looks like he just went into that area and then drilled through the floor to run the hose through. Read his thing again and look at the pictures. I still need to install the tornado. My toilet has been in for a year though.
 
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Hi Dan. I just wasn’t sure if he bored into the side of the enclosure and then through the bottom, while it was all still in place. The way my luck works, I probably have a 50:50 chance of hitting a water line. Just because. I think I will take some more measurements tomorrow to reconfirm the spot, drill through the tub wall from the bathroom side, take a peek in there with my ridgid “see snake” to find out the best spot to go through the faucet enclosure and do that from inside the enclosure itself. Or perhaps bring it into the enclosure from the opening in the back. I cut my shower hose when I first winterized it 3 years ago because I could not get the hose to tuck back inside. So there should be room back there.

My toilet has been in for a year though”. So has mine 😹.
 
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Hi Wavery. I am about to put my Tornado in place and just had a question about “into the outside shower enclosure” you referred to. I know it is really just on the other side of the tub side wall. Did you actually go into the locked area with the faucets, or just behind that and then down? If you went into the faucet enclosure, did you drill into it between the faucets, or did you remove that whole assembly first, then replace and recaulk?

Getting ready to head out in about 6 weeks, and this is the last interior job that wants doing. Now that the rain seems to have stopped the last outside job is check brakes and do the bearings. And we’re good to go.
I think post #50 might answer that question in detail.
 
Hi Dan. I just wasn’t sure if he bored into the side of the enclosure and then through the bottom, while it was all still in place. The way my luck works, I probably have a 50:50 chance of hitting a water line. Just because. I think I will take some more measurements tomorrow to reconfirm the spot, drill through the tub wall from the bathroom side, take a peek in there with my ridgid “see snake” to find out the best spot to go through the faucet enclosure and do that from inside the enclosure itself. Or perhaps bring it into the enclosure from the opening in the back. I cut my shower hose when I first winterized it 3 years ago because I could not get the hose to tuck back inside. So there should be room back there.

My toilet has been in for a year though”. So has mine 😹.
Just take to outdoor shower out and look. You'll have plenty of room to drill your holes.
 
Just take to outdoor shower out and look. You'll have plenty of room to drill your holes.
I see your confusion now. I did remove the outside shower enclosure for access. Just take out the 4 screws and carefully pull the entire enclosure out towards you. You may have to cut the calking from around the enclosure first. Just be sure to reseal it when finished.
 

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