2013 2720 SD: Gap Between Slide and Body Wall

[lcastell]

Hello,

Our new to us 2720 SD has a gap between the slide out wall on the right hand side and the main body of the camper. It looks like the wall angles out and the upper shell splays out as well.

The camper is level.

Any thoughts on how to fix this?

I'm attaching two pictures of the right hand side and one of the left hand side for comparison.

Update:

After posting this question, I saw a similar thread from about a year ago. Following the excellent suggestions in it, I went out and checked everything with a level.

The slide out side wall is reasonably vertical with both the lift arm and main body side wall angled out. As the lift arm is straight, I'm assuming the torsion bar is the issue.

Any thoughts on how to fix this? A new torsion bar? Bend the torsion bar somehow? Neither sounds like much fun OR just stuff the gap with something when camping?

(Note, the title says 2720 DL and it should be 2720 SD, not sure how to fix it on this forum software.)

 

[Shane826]

Yep sounds like you found the answer. Sounds like a slight bend in the torsion bar. The other thing you can try, make sure the lift arm heights are correct. If that RF arm is a bit longer, then it has to buckle and will push the torsion bar outward.

Jacob at the factory explained this all to me when I had the same problem with my 3326. He said they can tweak the torsion bar back inward but it’s really difficult if you don’t have the right tools (I didn’t ask what those tools might be). The other fix is a new torsion bar, but those should be replaced in pairs.

 

[lcastell]

I'm curious, what did you end up doing with the 3326 torsion bar?

I'll check the arm length tomorrow. If that's not the issue I guess I could either see if the factory can straighten the torsion bar or figure out how to plug the hole between the two walls.

 

[Shane826]

They were replaced at the factory. I’m guessing they just tossed the old ones in the trash.

 

[Bill]

lcastell -

In your middle picture,you show the short 1X1 square aluminum tube that is raised to latch the shell into place. If this tube were slightly longer, it would tend to close the gap. How about you lower the tube and push in on the wall a bit? Does it close the gap without causing any other problem? If so, remove the tube, turn it over a half turn, and re-drill the peg hole at a somewhat larger spacing.

You could accomplish the same thing by going to HD or Lowes, buying a short length of the same aluminum tube for a couple bucks, and cutting it and drilling it to the new dimensions. This would leave you with the original unmodified tube if you wanted to go back.

Don't overdo the change in dimension. You want the gap to be gently closed, just enough to seal, but not so tight that the slide drags badly if the you extend/retract it while the latch is engaged.

Bill

 

[Kmikesell]

That is a really good idea! I have a slightly similar issue and I will see it fits the bill!

I know it came from the "BILL"!

 

[Wavery]

It looks like the front of the slide-out is low. Be sure that the floor is perfectly level then check the level of the slide-out floor.