Gap between exterior and interior wall??

Hi all,

We noticed that, upon opening the TM after a rainfall, something around a 1 ft portion of the folded-up vinyl (or whatever that stuff is) flap/seal was damp.

Now the thing is, I don't see how the issue could be from a bad caulk joint (I just recaulked portions of the shells, and there weren't any obvious leaks after a driving rain) -- there's nowhere near the damp area that could theoretically contribute (not under a window, etc.)

So I have a theory -- at least this last time, we towed through the rain (and a LOT of it - that was fun), and I noticed that there's a sizable "gap" between what appears to be the outer wall and the inner wall.

Pics do a better job of explaining (the first pic shows the gap, the second the other side without any gap, and the last pic shows how one of the screws doesn't even enter the wall...).

Anyway, I'm hoping someone has an idea of how to fix the gap -- I'm not sure I can screw it together, so I was contemplating old standbys such as duct tape or spray foam... (bah)

Thanks!
John

anyone? Bueller? anyone?

I wish I could help, but I do not have that problem. But, it never rains in California so it is beyond my experience.

I know that the top and sides are pretty snug, but I have never climbed underneath to look at the bottom.

I'm having a hard time figuring out the relation between the problem and the pictures. Are you talking about the gap where it looks like the staples that hold the gasket have pulled away or are you talking about behind that where you can see the fold over vinyl seal? (visible on both sides).

Is there a chance that when you were towing in the rain that the nose of the camper was down and rain ran past the front shell seal and hit the internal gutter and ran down the side of the wall and got that one foot area wet? Maybe it would stop if the trailer was towed in a neutral position....Just a wild guess.

Also, since it's a 2009 (from your sig) any chance it's still under warranty?

[ZekenSpider]

Looking at some recent pic of our closed 3326, I think what you are seeing is close to normal. I do not have any "underneath" pictures of the bottom near the wheels, but I do remember reaching up (with the palm of my hand) between the front roof and rear roof sides at the wheel well cover area with the TM down. There is a 1/2" or so gap and I could feel the "gap flap" (in your pic #3) on the inside of the rear part of the front roof. It probably gets the road splash from the wheels, especially if your tires are pushing water out to the side in a heavy rainfall or puddles.

My TM is 20 miles away at storage but I will be looking at it in a few days. I'll take some bottom photos.

Are your wheel covers OK?

You have me thinking about something else I need to modify.

Later,

Jerry

Hubby did the original post, but I will try to answer some things for him while he is at work.

To clarify the problem is in the first picture with the vinyl material causing a gap by the staples. It looks all torn and you can see daylight when you look inside (that is the 3rd picture where you can see the screw did not even go through the wall at all...)

Wheel covers seem fine...

It is a 2009 but it is used so there is no warranty or we would just take it in.

[ZekenSpider]

To John at HappyWDWCampers:

By now, you may already know this, but in case you haven't fixed it yet, here is my current opinion. This is really difficult to explain with words but I will try.

I stopped by our local TM dealer to look at the construction details in the area you photographed. I looked at several 2010 models and one used (2007 3023). They all looked to be put together the same way. Every seal I looked at underneath was like your picture #2. Every seal was neatly stapled to a plastic bar (probably polypropylene). That same bar was visible when I lifted the "gap flap" on the inside of the TM as seen in my picture #2.

My attached picture #1 is looking at the forward left corner of the 2007 TM 3023 with the "gap flap" folded down. Lifting that flap up (in picture #2) and looking under it, there is a white plastic bar holding the outer bottom edge of the "gap flap" flat against the outer wall. This bar is held to the outer wall with a screw at each end. The screws are about 12" apart because they have to clear each end of the "pocket" the roof support leg pivots into. Both screws go fully into the wall and hold the plastic bar and flap tightly against the wall. The stapled seals you show in your pictures #1 and/or #2 are stapled to the bottom of this same bar(one on each side of the TM).

If I am right, I believe the gap you are seeing in your picture #1 is caused by the 12" white bar having pulled away from the wall at one end. The torn area that seems apparent in your picture is actually not torn. It is ragged to be sure, but it appears to be firmly stapled to the bottom of the 12" bar and the bar has pulled away from the wall.

I'm guessing the screws you see in your picture #3 are pulled out of the wall and you can re-attach the bar to the wall with larger diameter screws through the same screw holes that are already there. The new screws should be just a little larger in diameter so they hold in the existing holes in the wall.

If I am correct, you should be able to push the 12" bar back into position just to see if it closes the gap.

I hope I'm not seeing things incorrectly. Best of luck.

Regards,

Jerry

Hello,

I'm entering this thread kind of late, but am a new owner of a 2000 3124KB. In this year, they used wood to staple the flap up into, on the underside, and some of this wood is rotting. What I'm trying to find out is the approximte size of the new plastic bar that is used instead, and possibly how others have gone about this retrofit. I have some plastic lumber (made of sawdust and wood) that I thought I could rip and use. I'm not sure our length is only 12", like with Zekenspider's, but I would think the basic idea is the same.

Thanks.


Thanks for any help!.

[ZekenSpider]

Originally Posted by Liberty Bell

Hello,

I'm entering this thread kind of late, but am a new owner of a 2000 3124KB. In this year, they used wood to staple the flap up into, on the underside, and some of this wood is rotting. What I'm trying to find out is the approximte size of the new plastic bar that is used instead, and possibly how others have gone about this retrofit. I have some plastic lumber (made of sawdust and wood) that I thought I could rip and use. I'm not sure our length is only 12", like with Zekenspider's, but I would think the basic idea is the same.

Thanks.

Thanks for any help!.

I'll get an exact measurement from my 2010 3326 this afternoon and post it.

The cross section is about 1/2" x 1 1/4" and there are various section lengths. The short piece shown in my picture #2 is roughly 12 to 16" long. To the right of it is another piece (has a corner broken out of it in the picture) that may be several feet long. To the left of it (in the picture)is another piece that may be fairly long.

I will get what dimensions that I can from my 2010 3326 for you. Probably you can do best by replicating the cross section and lengths of the wood pieces in your 3124 that are still good. You will probably want to use the existing screw hole locations and that will determine the section lengths

Later,

Jerry

After measuring the plastic strip in my 3326, I find it is 2 1/8" wide and 3/8" thick. It looks like plastic molding, rounded off on both top and bottom.

The attached pictures show the 2010 3326 front roof interior on the curb side and front.

To ZekenSpider:

I don't have time to write much now (I'll have more time later this week), but I wanted to make sure to thank you for your all the checking you did!!