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  #11  
Old 08-03-2007, 09:56 AM
Rich_in_Tampa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill & Lisa View Post
Even if you stay hitched you can still drop the stabilizer jacks. really easy if you use a hand drill and allen wrench.
Just curious (a bit of a digression): in my 2008 model the stabilizer jacks are very easy to raise and lower with the included metal crank - round opening with a side-hole to lock the angled tip of the crank while winding. Don't see anywhere an Allen wrench would even work.

It would probably take me longer to fetch the drill and stow it than it does to just wind 'em up and down. Is this a change from older models? Seems like a snap but I know many use a cordless drill for this task.

I think I have a newer deal on the jacks.
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  #12  
Old 08-03-2007, 12:16 PM
larsdennert
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Ah I see what Bill is getting at. Most Allen wrenches are L shaped. Stick a big 3/8" one in your drill and you've got power jacks.
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  #13  
Old 08-03-2007, 02:08 PM
PopBeavers
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I use the cordless drill with large allen wrench to quickly drop the jacks. I never set the jacks any tighter than I can tighten with my bare hand. If I over tighten then the frame sags by the door and the door doesn't work properly. If I under tighten then the trailer rocks. Hand tighten with a bare hand and no wrench of any kind is what works for me.
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  #14  
Old 08-03-2007, 02:40 PM
Freedom
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Hand tighten with a bare hand and no wrench of any kind is what works for me.
You must have a better grip than I do. Mine is about gone due to 40 years of turning wrenches and carpal tunnel syndrome. I don't use an allen wrench because it chews up the jack - I use a concrete anchor bolt that's the same size as the original crank. I ground three flat spots on the shank for a better grip in the drill chuck. Works great!
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  #15  
Old 08-03-2007, 04:58 PM
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Bill Bill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich_in_Tampa View Post
It would probably take me longer to fetch the drill and stow it than it does to just wind 'em up and down.
I keep the drill, with the Allen wrench pre-chucked, in my "Towing stuff" box at the far back of the tow vehicle - just inside the lift gate. Since the lift gate is already open and the box is already being accessed, it actually takes LESS time to get out the drill than to open the rear bumper compartment in the TM and get out the hand crank.

BTW, the "towing stuff" box contains all the things that I need for hitching/unhitching. The drill as mentioned, the cheater bar for raising/lowering the spring bar hooks, extra safety clip for the spring bar hooks, grease for the hitch ball, oil for the spring bar stubs, hitch clip for the coupler, half roll of paper towels, 6" bubble level, LED head light, and so forth.

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  #16  
Old 08-03-2007, 10:18 PM
PopBeavers
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At home the drill is on top of the tote box for towing. When I leave the house it goes into the tote box.

Before we got the TM I was forever looking for the cordless drill, never knowing where I used it last. Since we got the TM I always know where the drill is. It still is where I used it last, but instead of it being at the location of the last home repair it is at the TM, after the last camping trip.

Obviously, I camp a little more often than I fix things around the house.
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  #17  
Old 08-04-2007, 09:14 PM
Magdefrau
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Remember if you stay hooked up to your TV, during a strong storm you will be less likely to be turned over.
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