Gap 'Tween Fwd Shell Seal/Aft Roof

[Denny_A]

Lookin' for some help here!

A was looking at my TM from a distance, and the forward shell seemed to slope downward from back to front. So, I checked the other side and it appeared NOT to slope.

Grabbed the tall step ladder and inspected the curbside of the forward shell where it rests on the aft shell to form seal #1 of the outer/inner shell double seal.

At the corner, where froward shell makes a 90 deg turn toward the ground, there is a 1.5 inch gap. The gap decreases linearly towrd the center of the roof. It's in full contact about 2/3 of the way toward the center of the roof!

Question: How do I adjust the roof. I'm guessing the bolts in the lift arm that secure the torsion rod must be loosened and the roof allowed to settle (lift arm moves down on torsion rod) to the correct height.

I've been wrong before when assuming the obvious is correct. Anyone with experience?

Happytrails ??, anybody. There must be a correct way to support the roof so it doesn't drop too far, creating a new problem.

Thanks. Next stop, if no experts - Jimmah!


Denny_A

Thanks for bringing this up. When my unit it closed, I seem to have a gap of about 1 inch on the curb side, where the rear edge of the front shell seems to sit above the top of the rear half on that side only. When the unit is opened, everything is fine. I've assumed that part of the problem is my driveway not being exactly level, but I wonder if something else is going on....

[Denny_A]

Thanks for bringing this up.  When my unit it closed, I seem to have a gap of about 1 inch on the curb side, where the rear edge of the front shell seems to sit above the top of the rear half on that side only.  When the unit is opened, everything is fine.  I've assumed that part of the problem is my driveway not being exactly level, but I wonder if something else is going on....

The difference is that my problem occurs when the roof is in the open position.

However, I had your problem (or a variation of it), in that the curbside side panel, behind the door, stood out a couple of inches from the side of the aft shell when closed. The folks at the factory adjusted it for me when I passed through Lake City last year.

Jimmy Davis might be able to get some help / instructions for your problem from the guys who do routine adjustments. Calling Jimmy may be my next move.

Denny_A

Well, at first glance, I'd say your problem is in the shims underneath the rubber bumper in your pocket stops, but they limit forward travel, not up and down travel. (At least any more than a 1/4" at the most anyway). To simplify what I'm talking about, each 1/8"; shim under the rubber bumper in your pocket stop limits *forward* travel by 1 full inch. Is your TM lining up as it should? (What I'm referring to is what the L in your lift arms rests upon when it's fully opened up, up inside the clamshell that makes your front roof.) If it is, it's not that I'm sure, though check and make sure both shells are lining up exactly as they should. I highly doubt that's the problem though. I need to get around to some adjustments. It's been cold and snowy in my area though so haven't yet. I'll probably be messing with it this weekend and see what I find out. But my guess is yes, your travel arm on that side may be too high on the torsion bar. I'd check with TM to make sure as you don't want to correct that problem to find your clam shell doesn't line up like it should. In mine the curb side upper shell comes out about 1.5" from the rear shell so I have a gap in my wall, but that was caused by when I first got mine, the wall was coming apart from the roof and it bowed way outward bending the torsion springs slightly when I opened it the first time with the old rotted wood in the roof. I will have to adjust that by using a spreader to bend it back inline. (My TM's sitting next to a rock wall, I just place the spreader low on the travel arm at the top of the torsion spring and give it some pressure, should do the trick). Harbor freight has one similar on sale right now for 109.99 on the back page if anyone out there receives their fliers, but the 5 ton one is only like 59.99 (the one I have). Anyway, hope some of this helps!

Happytrails

[Denny_A]

Happ,

It is definately not a stop problem. All 4 stops are set to provide nearly perfectly alignment with the stabilizer posts.

It is a vertical alignment problem. Either the forward shell is sitting too high or the aft shell is too low on the curb side. Probably the former.

Thanks for your input.

Denny_A

[BOB_STRONG]

Denny.

I had almost the same problem with my 2002 3326 King model last year on our way back from Florida. The 3326 King has a latch on the roof (curb side) only that you have to release and the road side has the normal latch on the bottom of the trailer. When I would release the top latch, it would stick on the bottom part of the latch. I would have to push and pull to get it released. Also, when I went to swing the side sections of the door in place, they would get hung up on the top section and they would not lock in place in the pin. To get it in, I had to lift up real hard on the top section by the door, and then another person would swing the section back into the pin. When I first had the trailer, there was plenty of clearance between the top and bottom sections for the side pieces to fit in place. When I got home, I called the dealer to ask for suggestions. He said that the arm for the top section had slipped where it attaches to the torsion bar as it comes out from under the trailer. He said that it was an easy adjustment. You need a piece of 2x4 and a hydraulic jack. I cut a piece of 2x4 long enough to fit by the arm that had to be adjusted. The 2x4 rested on the top of the jack and the top of the 2x4 rested under the top section.. I adjusted the jack so the weight rested on the jack. Now I was able to loosen the 4 bolts and nuts at the bottom of the arm. Once they were loose enough, I cranked up the jack and the top section started lifting. I only had to move it up about 1/2 inch to make everything fit ok. Once I had it where I wanted it, I tightened up the nuts and bolts. Then I cranked down the jack, and everything stayed where I wanted it. Now the clearance between the top and bottom sections by the door was fine. No longer did it get hung up. Also, the top latch no longer got hung up when I tried to release the top latch. It worked now just as it had when I first picked up the new trailer. The only thing you have to watch is that the 2x4 and the jack are on level ground so they won't kick out on you.
There is one other thing that you have to do before you tighten up the nuts and bolts. Take a small piece of 2x4 and place it on top of the torsion bar as it comes out from underneath the trailer. Take your hammer, and give it a couple of blows. The dealer said that this will move the torsion bar down where it should be. If you do not do this, you will still have the torsion bar in the slipped position. This part of the procedure is very important. Now you can retighten the nuts and bolts.
Sorry that I forgot to mention it in the above section before I tightened up the bolts. I hope you understand what I have tried to explain.
If you have any other questions, I'll try to answer them.

Bob Strong

[Denny_A]

Denny.
----------------snip-----------
When I got home, I called the dealer to ask for suggestions. He said that the arm for the top section had slipped where it attaches to the torsion bar as it comes out from under the trailer. He said that it was an easy adjustment. You need a piece of 2x4 and a hydraulic jack. I cut a piece of 2x4 long enough to fit by the arm that had to be adjusted. The 2x4 rested on the top of the jack and the top of the 2x4 rested under the top section.. I adjusted the jack so the weight rested on the jack. Now I was able to loosen the 4 bolts and nuts at the bottom of the arm. Once they were loose enough, I cranked up the jack and the top section started lifting. I only had to move it up about 1/2 inch to make everything fit ok. Once I had it where I wanted it, I tightened up the nuts and bolts. Then I cranked down the jack, and everything stayed where I wanted it. Now the clearance between the top and bottom sections by the door was fine.
--------snip-----------
There is one other thing that you have to do before you tighten up the nuts and bolts. Take a small piece of 2x4 and place it on top of the torsion bar as it comes out from underneath the trailer. Take your hammer, and give it a couple of blows. The dealer said that this will move the torsion bar down where it should be. If you do not do this, you will still have the torsion bar in the slipped position. This part of the procedure is very important. Now you can retighten the nuts and bolts.
-------------snip---------
If you have any other questions, I'll try to answer them.

Bob Strong

Merci (oops, forgot the boycott) ...Thanks Bob,

What you described is ABOUT what I envisioned. But the 2x4's and bottle-jack filled in the details. In my case one 2x4 would be under the torsion bar as I let the roof down with the jack and 2nd 2x4. Really quite simple!

Again, Gracius (w/Spanish accent)


Denny_A

Not to overstate the obvious... but be careful when adjusting height on the torsion arms.

The TM's are a wonderous web of interconnected and inter-related linkages and relationships.

Don't forget adjusting the torsion arms will change how lots of things fit together. Plus changing the length of the arms changes the closed position too.

My TM needed adjusting, when I bought it. I've talked to the factory a couple times about it. I've gotten it pretty close using the adjustment described above, but the "real" adjustment was too complicated for whimpy me to attempt. Apparently there are some additonal adjustments inside the pocket to help align things...

I plan to take the trailer by the factory for fine tuning.

[BOB_STRONG]

Denny

Just a little clarification about the 2nd 2x4. It goes in between the arm and the box of the trailer just where the torsion bar comes out and curves up to fit into the arms. Pounding the 2x4 against the torsion bar will position it back down where it should be.Now you can retighten the 4 bolts. Only the 1 2x4 is holding the top section up on top of the jack. The 2nd small piece is used to position the torsion bar. Sorry if I confused you. It's a little difficult to explain in writing what to do. It's a lot easier if you are there showing someone step by step. Also you can adjust the pockets by turning the screw  on the bottom of the vinyl cover over the arm. If you look up under the white cover, you can see the adjusting screw. The older models did not have this .
If you have any questions, please let me know. ???

Bob Strong

[Denny_A]

Thanks Bob and Oilspot,

Bob: My roof has to come *downward*, therefore I must tap the torsion rod from underneath. I will mark the rod and lift arm before adjusting, then measure the appropriate change of position. It is necessary to allow the seal to reseat whilst keeping the weight from resting on the aft shell.

Oilspot: I would think that only latch engagement would be affected if I repos the arm. That's easy enough. Maybe there's an effect on the forward arm during stowing, but I can't see it with just an inch or so change in overall geometry.

Ciao,

Denny_A