Help on new 2720SL

Welcome to the club.

I would guess a demo unit would be a great way to go since any factory "bugs" are probably already taken care of by the dealer without any real wear or tear.

Regarding your Tundra, I'd be willing to bet that Toyota has available the 7-pin connector wiring harness that would be a simple swap from your existing 4-pin connecter. You could do it cheaper but the plug-n-play from Toyota would be easiest.

I agree on the Prodigy controller just make sure you mount it so you can easily manually activate the brakes if needed and for the pre-drive test.

As far as the WDH, my experience has been that a 1/2 ton pick-up will very easily tow your TM without. I went a couple of thousand miles without one before I elected to get one as a safety precaution (after reading the various posts here). All in all I consider the WDH as pretty cheap insurance. When a group of deer suddenly popped up in front of me around midnight last fall and I was able to swerve hard and miss all but one, I was very grateful for the added control. RockyMtnRay has some great posts on the subject. Bottom-line a WDH is really for when something suddenly goes wrong -- road debris, blown tire, & other evasive maneuvers where the extra steering grip is really needed.

Finally, I get about 15mph with my F150.

Again, welcome aboard.

My 2720SL with low profile air and lift kit fits in my 7 ft. garage with about two inches to spare.

Originally Posted by idaho-steve

Finally, I get about 15mph with my F150.

idaho-steve:

What engine and axle ratio do you have in your F150??

mtnguy

[kempert]

gadusfly -

I would say the same thing that idaho-steve said including the gas mileage for my Tundra. I would also add that I've found that I feel like I have a better "feel" or ride when towing with the WDH.

I. too, have garage problems and can offer 2 suggestions which you may use if you are really tight height wise. Our Sears garage door openers have connecting bars that attach the door to the opener. They have numerous adjustment holes and on the side we store our 2619 we cut off the end of the bar beyond the hole actually used which gained us about 4". Also, most overhead doors actually can be pushed up beyond where they normally rest when open. In the past I have used a 2x4 as a prop to give a little more clearance when moving a tall vehicle into a garage. - Camp2Canoe

P.S. You can also gain additional clearance by bleeding some air from the tires before backing your TM in. You do need to reinflate them to normal pressure for storage and, above all, need to remember to bleed them again before pulling out!

FWIW, we tow a 3124KS with a Ford Expedition 4x4 and get 13 mpg in the mountains (towing with overdrive off) and between 14 and 15 mpg in the flats towing in overdrive. I don't think fuel mileage will be a big concern. When not towing, we get around 17 mpg on the interstate.

Bob

[Bill]

... most overhead doors actually can be pushed up beyond where they normally rest when open. In the past I have used a 2x4 as a prop to give a little more clearance when moving a tall vehicle into a garage. - Camp2Canoe

Camp2Canoe -

For what it is worth, most every garage door opener has an "open height" adjuster. This tells the opener when the door is fully up. By tweaking this adjustment, you can cause the door to open farther before it stops.

On some openers, the adjustment is a small doohicky with a pair of wires coming out of it, clamped on the rail near the opener body. Loosen the clamp and move the doohicky a couple inches toward the opener body, and the door will open a couple inches more before it stops. Repeat as necessary. A photo of this kind of adjustment (on my Genie opener) is attached below.

On others, the adjustment is a simple knob or screwdriver-adjust tweak on the opener body. It will be labelled something like "Open height" or "Open adjust" or "Open travel". A photo of this kind of adjustment (on my LiftMaster opener) is attached below.

On either kind of opener, there may also be a knob that says something about "Force" - don't tweak this one.

You should be able to change the setting enough that the door opens to a position above the top of the door frame or "header", so the TM can't hit the door. Making this tweak frees you forever from the need to disconnect the door from the opener and prop it up with a 2x4.

Bill

[fcatwo]

gadusfly

Our Tundra is much more softly sprung (almost car-like) than my last PU and I find a WDH is absolutely necessary for towing our 2619. Also, you may already know this but Toyota recommends locking overdrive out when towing with a 1st gen Tundra. Transmission failures have been reported when towing in OD. I assume you have the factory towing package with the auxillery transmission cooler -- don't leave home without one :-).

On mpg: We average around 14 towing with a wind-assisted best tank of a little over 15 at 62-65mph. 70mph yields about 13 and it goes down quickly from there. For comparison, our best solo tank was 20.1mpg on a 700mi RT running 62-65 on I-90 that included going over and back across 3500ft Snoqualmie Pass. You can probably expect a 4-5 mpg loss when towing the TM which seems like a lot until you compare it to the 8-9 mpg you'll get towing a full-blown trailer.

Mtnguy -- Sorry for the delayed answer but I had a tough time figuring out the axle ratio. In my F-150, I have the 4.6l V-8 with a 3.55 axel ratio. It is a 4x4 on a Supercab configuration. My mileage can really vary depending on topography, wind and my lead foot. When I can I try to accelerate gently and, if on flat lands, allow the overdrive and cruise to help. Often that just isn't possible and mileage suffers.

Steve

One other thing I have noticed about being a TM owner is that it can sure attract a crowd when you are getting ready to get underway. Of course this always happens when I am running behind anyway and am hoping to make good time to arrive at the next place before dark. After explaining the ins-and-outs of the rig, I'm even more behind the ever. These are the trips where my mileage really suffers