Tow Equalizers

[Speckul8r]

As per usual, Bill seems to be right on the mark. Smaller lighter vehicles should use a WDH if for no other reason the handling carachteristics (sp?). My wife's Jimmy (tow rated at 5000#) towed the 2720 just fine but seems a bit light in the front. The WDH solved that problem. The GMC Sierra is a heavy 4x4 and doesn't need it. The rear bumper drop is minor and the handling difference is not noticable.
As far as killing someone goes, that someone could be YOU!!!!

Originally Posted by masterge

I have a 2007 2720 and tow with a 2007 Chevy Avalanche. I had the same dilemna between using a WDH on not. It tows beutifully without complicating the process. Some folks will still tell you that you should have one, but as for me I will be towing without.

I towed my 2720SL without a WDH the first few times, and while it towed OK, the rear end of my TV sagged quite a bit.

So I got a WDH, and not only does the TV ride level now, but the ride comfort while towing is considerably improved -- the road imperfections (especially resonant waviness in the road) aren't nearly as disturbing as before. It's hard to describe how much difference it makes just in comfort, but it is considerable.

Granted that your Avalanche is a longer, heavier vehicle, and you may not see quite the difference that I did.

[shunter917]

We tow a 3023 with an Expedition and I still use a WDH. The increased handling and stability is worth the extra few minutes of hitch/unhitch.

The problem with WDH's is that the vehicles that need them most, with a TM, can't get them. WHAT Did I Say??
The effect of tongue load is most noticeable with 3500 lb hitches. But I could not find a WDH for my 1 1/4" receiver. My answer, load leveling Air Shocks. The handling improvement is obvious. The rear comes up, the front goes down and steering gets better. If I could just solve my air leak problem life would be even better.

[Denny_A]

Originally Posted by Alrhall

.....snip....My answer, load leveling Air Shocks. The handling improvement is obvious. The rear comes up, the front goes down and steering gets better. If I could just solve my air leak problem life would be even better.

That seems to be counter-intuitive. The tongue weight acts on the hitch. The moment about the rear axle creates an up force (unloading) at the front axle.

Air shocks will prevent settling of the rear axle, but can not counter the up force on the front axle. The front axle must(it's physics) experience some decreased steering ability. Air shocks, it seems, are good for creating an illusion of increased steering control.

Just sayin'....

Denny_A

[Bill]

Al -

You're right - some vehicles won't/can't accept a weight-distributing hitch. This is due to the vehicle construction, rather than a problem of the manufacturer not making a WDH available. We've had quite a bit of discussion about it on this board. A search using the keyword "unibody" or the keyword "frame" ought to bring up a lot of it.

I can't speak to your Volvo specifically, but according to the Draw-Tite web site (a major hitch manufacturer):

"Class I hitches are weight carrying (WC) hitches rated up to 2000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 200 lbs. A Class I hitch usually has a 1-1/4" square receiver opening."

If you find that are towing a 2720SL with a Class I hitch, you may find yourself in serious trouble.

Draw-Tite will sell you an aftermarket Class II receiver, rated for 3500 pounds trailer weight and 300 pounds tongue weight (no, not 350 pounds). Sadly, the tongue weight of a 2720SL, loaded and ready for the road, is quite a bit more than 300 pounds. You really should weigh your TM. My 2720SL runs 550 pounds of tongue weight - I posted the specifics here.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=3144

Regarding your specific vehicle, was your hitch an aftermarket unit, or a Volvo OEM product? If it came from the Volvo factory, what does your owner's manual say about the hitch ratings?

Bill

The hitch is rated Class II as is the car 3500/350. I travel alone and don't load down the back of the station wagon. I am trading passenger weight for trailer tongue weight. I know a WDH would be better but what I have is what I tow with. Most of my travel is from job to job in Florida. I bought a TM specifically so I would not have to give up my super reliable Volvos. This one has about 300,000 miles on it(I don't know for sure previous owners set it back). And yes I can definitely feel a difference in the steering with the shocks inflated. I am having no problems with breaking, uneven roads or wind. I was pleasantly surprised how much better it tows than the U-Haul I moved my daughter to school with.

[Bill]

I understand your position, Al, but as you travel, it will be important to remember that you are travelling with a hitch weight nearly double the Volvo's rating. As Denny_A pointed out above, air shocks don't do ANYTHING to change that fact - the hitch weight is still on the Volvo's rear end/rear suspension, and the front wheels are still unweighted. The air shocks will make your headlights point in the right direction - that's all. Let us know how it works out.

Bill

Thanx Bill
First chance I get I'll get on some scales and find out what my axel loads are. I am 660 miles from home and the tow up here (Charlotte NC area) from Florida went well. Of course I turned off overdrive and slowed down some for the hills.
I don't recomend this setup for the casual driver.