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Old 08-02-2007, 03:38 PM   #11
countrygirl
 
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Do you leave the swim noodles in place after you camp...say break camp leave them in place and pack down??? Or...you you take them out and re-insert them each time you set up camp? Thanks for you replies!
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Old 08-03-2007, 09:19 AM   #12
Bill & Lisa
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The noodles will not remain in place when you push the beds in. I haven't tried to push the beds in with them in place. Mine fit snug enough you would have had to remove them before the beds would slide. We just stored/transported them on the floor between the couches and set them up next time. We used them year round. Worked equally well at keeping the cool in or out and less light leaking out to attract bugs and such.

Bill
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Old 08-08-2007, 10:46 PM   #13
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Okay I have been re-reading this thread and have some questions. We will leave for a trip to Maryville, Mo. in late October and stay until November
9th. Last year the weather was pretty warm...but that is not always the case. Sometimes there is a good bit of wind on the farm where we stay...and with the wind chill it is occasionally down to 14...but then it can jump back up to 60 and drop again at dusk. I bought 3 swim noodles for the bed area....to insert from the outside if needed. I am wondering though if I should buy some of the silver bubble insulation stuff for the windows and just attach with command strips if needed. I am also considering making a LOT of those draft stopper type items to lay over ...where the seals are in the bath room, the area behind the kitchen faucets and the counters on that side, and along the section behind the stove and the kitchen counters. I have considered placing them around the bed edge as well but that may not be necessary. My husband thinks we also need to make wider ones and cover the velcroed areas to give more insulation there. At the on line stores they are not only heavy in weight they are pretty expensive if I really need to cover all of these areas. I have NO knowledge or experience on stopping drafts...I do not want to stuff the draft stoppers with food items such as corn, dry beans or rice...for obvious reasons (bugs and varmints). Some companies use crushed balsalm...for the packing....I think one with it may be nice...but if they all are it will be too much/over powering. I am considering...making them with cotton fabric lined with a good quality quilt batting and maybe stuffed with fiberfill if needed.

What do you think? Will this cause our TM to constantly have condensation on the inside?

We will have hook ups at my uncles home...will disconnect water and sewage if goes below 32. We do have a goose down comforter but no electric blanket at this time. Please share your ideas and suggestions.
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Old 08-09-2007, 12:26 AM   #14
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I have not been camping in severe cold weather, but what little I have experienced I have notice that the front shell seals against the bottom shell a lot better than the rear shell does.

The front shell connects to the bottom shell with flaps over the gap and then velcro to hold it in place. I do not feel very much draft through that.

The rear shell is loosely coupled to the lower shell. This is especially true if the rear shell bows at all. The lower shell is relatively rigid, but the upper shell can flex. In my 2005 M 2720 the connection between the rear and lower shell behind the bathroom works pretty well, but behind the microwave drawer and closet it is very poor.

If I was camping and suddenly it got sufficiently cold that this was a problem, as a short term solution I would apply duct tape on the inside between the rear shell and the lower shell.

There are two different issues to consider. One is insulation another is sealing against drafts. To me, an insulation problem primarily results in heat loss which translates into money down the drain because I have to run the heater more than I should. A severe draft primarily results in significant discomfort and I can't sleep. Duct tape as I have suggested will solve the draft problem. I think there is enough insulation at the connection between rear and lower shell. This is a draft problem.

The pool noodle or pipe insulation is a combination solution for the rear bed. I think that its primary advantage is to reduce draft, but it very likely also provides some insulation in a narrow area hat has essentially no insulation.

Sorry to ramble so much, I'm just thinking out loud.
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Old 08-09-2007, 07:13 AM   #15
countrygirl
 
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Good ideas....thanks!
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Old 08-09-2007, 07:43 AM   #16
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Default Swim Noodle Insulation Alternative

Based on experience this past weekend, swim noodles may be hard to find in the stores at this time of the year - the season apparently ends early. We tried several stores (WalMart, Dollar Stores, etc) in Tennessee and the clerks were amazed that there were none left. Anyway, a friend suggested using foam pipe insulation, available in different thicknesses at hardware stores and DIY stores. So I bought some 6' lengths. I like this stuff because it is already split, and tucks securely in place.

PS: In case you're wondering - with this 95 heat I was not worried about insulating against the cold. I was trying to keep field mice out of the trailer while we were gone for several weeks. Once the camper shells are down, there are a few places where rodents can gain entrance. Hope they don't like eating foam!!

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Old 08-09-2007, 01:05 PM   #17
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I've had some luck in camping during weather where night temperatures fall below freezing by leaving a trickle of water running in the bathroom which has kept the fresh water hose from freezing. The grey water hose has never been a problem as it is empty - no need to disconnect it. I use a ceramic heater which provides adequate heat into the 20s and helps to keep air moving. Leave a vent and a window cracked for condensation purposes. You will want some insulation UNDER the mattress as there isn't much separating your body from the outside. We've never camped in our TM in really cold weather but have been comfortable when night time temperatures dip into the teens. Remember also when boondocking that the TM furnace uses lots of electricity. - Camp2Canoe
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Old 08-09-2007, 03:15 PM   #18
Bill & Lisa
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One area that begs for the bubble insulation you speak of is the Wheel Wells. If you look under the sink and under the stove there is just the bare metal. These radiate cold if it gets real cold out so putting a layer of the bubble wrap over them will serve you well.

Bill
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Old 08-09-2007, 09:42 PM   #19
countrygirl
 
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Your right Nick...I had to go to two stores to buy them last week.

Camp2Canoe... what do you suggest to use for the bed insulation?

Thanks Bill and Lisa...I will do that with the wheel wells.
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Old 08-09-2007, 11:43 PM   #20
ShrimpBurrito
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Another big air leak is on models with a side mount A/C unit. I pulled mine out a few weeks ago, and the actual A/C unit only faces up against about 2/3 of the outer vent cover. What's behind the other 1/3? Absolutely nothing. It's a big hole, allowing air to rush inside, seeping around the A/C unit and the cabinet joints and into the inside of the trailer. I may cover it with some styrofoam insulation, but that will be far from perfect.
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