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  #11  
Old 08-28-2006, 10:33 PM
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Do you use the really large stick on bubble levels? I have been debating what size to get. The big ones look a little ugly, but my eyes aren't likely to get any better with time.
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  #12  
Old 08-29-2006, 03:13 AM
fcatwo fcatwo is offline
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I've found there are only two sizes of stick-on levels -- too big and too small. We are using the small ones that are about 4" wide on the TM. I'd prefer something about 6" long if I could find them and I agree that the big 12" ones are unsightly. I do have to open the rear window in the truck and both windows in the cap to see the small front stick-on level from the drivers seat while backing and usually just hop out to check it. I've found our TM's door works better if I do most of the side to side leveling with blocks under the tires. I use the side leveling jacks just to firm things up. I also carry enough blocks to raise the TV's rear wheels if we are stopping for just one night and don't unhitch unless absolutely necessary. My logic is that the TM can't roll off down a hill if I don't unhook it from the TV. It also saves the re-hitching chore.
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  #13  
Old 08-29-2006, 05:30 AM
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commodor47 commodor47 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fcatwo
. . . I also carry enough blocks to raise the TV's rear wheels if we are stopping for just one night and don't unhitch unless absolutely necessary. . . .

We have done the same thing when stopping for one night. I've also noticed that releasing the spring bar (WDH) tension makes it easier to "somewhat" level the TM front to back.
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  #14  
Old 08-29-2006, 10:35 AM
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Harry Womack Harry Womack is offline
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I use the small levels. I have one mounted on the inside of the frame near the hitch for the front to rear level. The other level is mounted to the battery rack angle iron for side to side level.
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  #15  
Old 08-29-2006, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fcatwo
I've found our TM's door works better if I do most of the side to side leveling with blocks under the tires. I use the side leveling jacks just to firm things up.
I completely agree with this statement. I had the same experience.

I have been using an 18 inch carpenters level when at home and a 6 inch level when on the road.

One reason I have been delaying putting on permanent levels is I have been forthing and backing on what I consider level to be.

My first goal was to get the fridge *EXACTLY* level. This resulted in water on the counter over the fridge to run towards the seat instead of towards the sink.

My second attempt was to make the counter over the fridge lean slightly towards the street side and slightly toward the rear. This would keep the water from running on to the seat.

I have finally decided to level the stove top. Cooking crepes and frying eggs is not easy if the stove is off level.

I have determined that if the stove top is level then the fridge is close enough. The water on the counter problem can be solved by getting a drain mat under the dish drainer.

So real soon now I will be ready to attach some permanent levels to the exterior.

It only took me 18 months and about a dozen trips to reach this conclusion. I can't wait to see how long it takes me to figure out where I want to mount the levels.

OCD (Obsessive Compulsive Disorder) can sometimes get in my way.
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  #16  
Old 08-29-2006, 02:30 PM
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I also find that I have to have the head end of the bed level or just slightly raised. If it is down, I am not able to sleep that well.
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  #17  
Old 08-29-2006, 02:32 PM
rockerga
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I LOVE IT!! Someone as bad as I am.... That is why until I "mount" permanently bolted levels to my TM I use a 12" aluminum I keep in my TV. Those "stick-ons" aren't worth postage! They move with the slightest touch.

By the way my wife hasn't complained yet regarding "level" regarding the stove and cooking and I just level resting mine on the awning mount (for frt to rr) and then over the front and rear windows. (for L to R) and I always lean a little forward/right (Looking at it from the TV edge on) in the summer to allow the A/C to drain down to the front curb side of the TM away from me and the awning.
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  #18  
Old 08-31-2006, 12:09 AM
edweidig
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Default Big ugly one

I have one of the big ugly levels mounted above the front window of the TM so I can see from my TV to get side to side close to level (+/- 1" or so) when pulling or backing into a site. I then use the smaller stick ons for front to back leveling. If I'm going to be somewhere for more than overnight I will use a carpenters level on the stove or fridge for additional fine tuning if I feel it to be necessary.
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  #19  
Old 09-01-2006, 04:50 AM
Bill & Lisa
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Ron,
I am similar to you but I have the front slightly elevate at the front curb side jack. Two reasons.

1. the door latches easier
2. the water from the A/C drips off the front STREET side corner.

Seems to me that front curb corner would put the water right on to yout awning or trying to work it's way into the light mounted up there.

The area around my front street side tends to be alittle damp from drips from my water hook up anyway so I figure why not.

Bill
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  #20  
Old 09-01-2006, 06:16 AM
rockerga
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Bill, I have done both and it seems that depending upon the level of the campsite L to R I won't argue with it but go with the environment but I only off-center the bubble ever so slightly just enough to let gravity do its job so I have not encountered any door problems.

Should I check my fridge level all directions? I have always centered the entire unit and left it at that. As I said before we have not noticed an off level at the stove so I never bothered with it any further.
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