What's wrong with TrailManor?

I added a small computer fan in the top fridge vent and can freeze lettuce in the fridge when it is 95 outside on #4. As far as all the other comments, my thoughts are the TM is not perfect you are making a trade off which should be part of your decision. It does not have the advantages of a $350K motor home but it can be pulled with a reasonably equipped vehicle and will fit in your garage. Your options for camping/traveling go from a one man backpacking tent to a 50Ft Motorhome. Your decision needs to be based on what meets your requirements and resources.

And it should be pointed out that the fridge in the TM is the same fridge that is found on most folding trailers, and runs on the same principle (absorption) as those in large TT and MH. So it is not an issue with the TM - it is an issue with RVs in general.

With the drapes closed, 85 temp outside, refrig fan on all day, setting on 5, 110 volt selected, the inside frig temp stays at about 50. At night the refrig works well. I know TM doesn't make the refrig, but I also know a conventional refrig will probably give better results. For me I don't need 3 different ways to make cold because I like staying with full hookups. Maybe using the gas setting might give better results. I also realize opening the door during the day doesn't help. An extra cooling fan on the top refrig vent sounds like what I need. Thanks for the idea Bob. Robert

Originally Posted by robertkennel

I also realize opening the door during the day doesn't help.

In all the years of tent camping we never had a refrigerator, so this seems like a great luxury. We usually used at least two ice chests; one for drinks and the other for groceries (meat, eggs, milk, etc).
I would assume that you would now use the TM's frig as the 2nd ice chest..for meat, eggs, etc. If so, it seems ideally you would only open the frig in the TM twice a day... once to cook breakfast and again to cook dinner. Even if you're staying in camp all day, I can't imagine not using an ice chest for drinks since you're grabbing them all day long, especially with kids. Am I assuming too much?

…TM is the same fridge that is found on most folding trailers, and runs on the same principle (absorption) as those in large TT and MH. So it is not an issue with the TM - it is an issue with RVs in general…

I do not know enough either way about this fridge. I have two issues with it:

1. It will stay cool during the day, not cold. If adding a 12-volt fan would do the job, I will add one.

2. When running the fridge on 12 volts it sucks the life out of the battery in a 3326 (this might not happen on smaller TMs due to battery location). I have read all the stuff about dc-dc power conditioners, powering the fridge with 120 VAC, and the occasional suggestions of running the unit with gas (which sounds like the best suggestion, though no one has stuck their neck out yet).

Still if you contemplating a TM you should know about this issue in advance of making a purchase. I haven’t read a lot of comments in other forums about this. That certainly does not mean it is only a TM issue, it may just mean other trailers have much more important issues.

The rooftop air conditioner remains one of my top issues with the trailer. Low speed ain’t low enough, it is noisy beyond belief, does not seem to dry out the trailer’s interior, and the thermostat seems to shutoff early.

I still think that smaller dual HVACs, one on the rear shell (bedroom) and one on the front shell would cure the problem of a noisy HVAC. It would also allow you to use zone control, where you could keep the rear bedroom cooler than the rest of the trailer.

It is still a nice trailer and seems to hold up well. It also is fairly fuel efficient which could be hugely important now that Congress seems hell bent on passing Cap & Tax again...

[4Kids2Dogs]

FWIW, we need two coolers in addition to the refrigerator due to all our kids. We use refreezeable gel ice packs in our coolers from DH's office which his nurses save for him from vaccine shipments. We take the ice packs from the coolers and freeze the softer ones in the TM fridge, and by cycling them can keep lots of food and soda, etc. perfectly cold. I don't use ice cubes, though, so the freezer is pretty much exclusively for ice packs. I agree that the TM fridge doesn't cool down as quickly (or hold as much) as I would like, but our system works for us.

The only reason to run the fridge on 12 volts is when towing. When parked I use 120 volts if I have shore power. Otherwise I use propane. Sometimes I cheat. If I close the TM down at home before a trip I set it on 12 volts and plug in to shore power. That way I do not need to pop it open to switch from 120 volts to 12 volts.

We open our fridge often. At least twice for each meal. Once to take stuff out and again later to put it back.

I keep my beverages on ice. I like them very cold.

If there is any space left in the freezer compartment I fill it with Otter Pops. Sometimes I eat them on hot days. Sometimes they just sit there filling the void and helping to keep the temperature stable. If they melt it does not make a mess. A big box from Costco lasts a year. If there are young children around then I am their friend.

I run the TM fridge fan on very hot days (85+), but only during the heat of the day.

I have a battery operated fridge fan inside the fridge to keep the air moving around.

running the fridge on 12 volts it sucks the life out of the battery in a 3326 (this might not happen on smaller TMs due to battery location)

The fridge draws 10-12 amps on 12V DC and a little over 1 amp at 120V. In other words it needs about 130 watts of heat energy to work, This is the case no matter what source of energy you are running on or what the firdge is mounted in. This is not a TM issue, but the physics of a gas absorption fridge. If you have a single standard deep cycle battery you have about 75 amp hours (recommended you charge after using approx 40) of power until you have killed the battery. Doing the math, you will kill the battery in less than 8 hrs if nothing else is running. This doesn't matter what type or make of RV the fridge is installed in. This is not a negative for TM. Bottom line running the Fridge on 12V should only be done when there is a regenerative source of 12v ( ie connected to good TV system, large solar panel or even shore power.

Originally Posted by rumbleweed

The fridge draws 10-12 amps on 12V DC and a little over 1 amp at 120V...This is not a TM issue, but the physics of a gas absorption fridge...This is not a negative for TM. Bottom line running the Fridge on 12V should only be done when there is a regenerative source of 12v ( ie connected to good TV system, large solar panel or even shore power.

It is connected to a Tacoma with tow package (bigger alternator). It is a TM issue, or rather, it is at least a 3326 issue. If you do the math, it is the voltage drop due to the length of the copper power lines from the alternator to battery (because the battery is located in the back of the TM).

One untested solution is to install much larger copper cables to lower the resistance of the power cables. Another is to install a dc-dc converter that increases voltage to overcome the wiring's internal resistance.

The TMs with batteries located near the front of the trailer apparently do not have this issue. But my 3326 does. This also ages the battery since it does not recharge or balance properly unless it is on shore power.

If someone has a solution other than replacing the battery annually, I am open to listen. But again this is a TM 3326 issue regarding the location of the battery and physics of internal resistance of the power lines from the TV alternator to the TM.

The longer run will also impact the effeciency of the Fridge as the operating voltage will be lower. As you suggest, one solution is to upgrade the line from the TV to the battery. Don't forget to check the Gnd side because if that is a high resistance fixing the other side will not help. Another thing to check is the wire from the Battery/ fuse block to the TV connector. Many owners have found they have a HD alternator only to find out that the wire to the 12V pin on the TV connector is too small and causing a large voltage drop.