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Old 12-18-2022, 06:52 PM   #11
Twinkee75
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Basically you get double power with a 50 amp over a 30. This link explains it way better than I could though.

https://koa.com/blog/30-vs-50-amp-rv...%2C600%20watts.
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Old 12-19-2022, 10:22 AM   #12
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From what I understand newer cars will detect what’s available and charge based on that.
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Old 12-19-2022, 10:32 AM   #13
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I don't see how it's possible to charge above 15 amps from a level 1 charger, which is what most cars come with (and what you would use to charge at home), because the charger plug is only rated for 15 amps. I'm thinking to get above that amount, the charger plug would have to be swappable, which wouldn't be hard to do (most laptop chargers are like that), but I've never seen it. I've never looked though.

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Old 12-19-2022, 12:15 PM   #14
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The charger plugs into a 50A outlet, same as a 50A RV plug.
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Old 12-19-2022, 12:18 PM   #15
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Bill just clarified for me that a 50A receptacle at a campground is actually 240V, so that answers my question. I thought it was 120V.

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Old 12-19-2022, 12:25 PM   #16
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Nevermind the smart charging is 240V. 120V will only charge at 12 no matter what is available.
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Old 01-13-2023, 11:42 AM   #17
Twinkee75
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Default Just an update...still waiting. Sigh.

So just an update to my post, still waiting. Sigh.

As I was driving up to get it, about an hour and half into my drive, the dealer called to inform me that the trailer was not winterized prior to shipping and, due to that, the water heater and water line froze and broke the water heater. Things happen. Better they break it than me, cheaper for me that way. Ha ha. I still continued my trip up to look at it overall and to complete the financing, but during my walkthrough I discovered it did not include the specs I ordered. So, the dealer also had to reno the bathroom (wanted the recirculating toilet, not cassette) and fix the busted water system. That day was not meant for me to have a trailer. That's ok. As excited as I was to get it, it gave me more time to prepare. I am a bit nervous about calibrating the brake controller. I read in the instructions that I am to hook up, drive 25 mph and then adjust until the trailer brakes lock up them dial it back "a titch"..... Oh my. I am having visions of sliding right off the icy road doing that. I am sure I am over dramatizing this. Always the case when one hasn't done something before.

Regardless...Tomorrow is the day! I will post pics when I get it back home safely and have a chance to play with it a bit. I swear, amazon is loving me right now as I have bought everything from bedding to wheel covers to tank treatments.... I have banned myself from any further purchases until I have the trailer in my possession. ha ha.
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Old 01-13-2023, 11:46 AM   #18
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...and p.s. I found the post in this forum for a pick up check list. Very informative and thorough. Thank you!

I have sent it to my husband to facilitate when we go up. As suggested in the list, he called and advised of the time he will need to go through it.

So much great info here!
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Old 01-13-2023, 01:45 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinkee75 View Post
I am a bit nervous about calibrating the brake controller. I read in the instructions that I am to hook up, drive 25 mph and then adjust until the trailer brakes lock up them dial it back "a titch"..... Oh my. I am having visions of sliding right off the icy road doing that.
I'm sorry to hear of the pre-delivery problems you are experiencing. Since the factory is in South Dakota (translation => cold!) I would be very surprised to hear that the factory forgot to winterize it.

Regarding the brake adjustment. I cannot speak to current TMs or current brakes. But in the past, the advice has always been to drive 25 mph on clean dry pavement, and then try to lock up the brakes. And in the past, the result has always been that the brakes will not lock up with the wheels on pavement, but will do so when the road has a bit of sand on it. So in my case, anyway, the bottom line is that I have always run the controller at max, with good experiences. The 2518 is a few hundred pound lighter than my 2720SL's, so you may find that you can lock them up. I'm sure you are kidding about doing it on ice or snow, but ...

For me, a better adjustment method was to drive at any reasonable speed, and come to a controlled stop as if you were coming to a traffic light. Adjust the brake controller so that the overall rig feels like it is stopping at about the same rate as it does without the trailer. This means that the trailer brakes are stopping the trailer, and the truck brakes are stopping the truck, which is just what you want. You will get so you feel this kind of stop every time you put on the brakes, even if you are not in the process of actually calibrating anything.

At any rate, welcome aboard. When you get your TM, you will love it!

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Old 01-13-2023, 02:34 PM   #20
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Thanks for the tip, Bill. I was bit surprised of the winterizing mishap as well for the same reason...freezing temps are common in most places in December and that should have been a given whether it was at the factory or wherever it would have been destined for.... But I tend not to add salt on these types of situations as its frustrating enough for everyone involved.

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Originally Posted by Bill View Post
. I'm sure you are kidding about doing it on ice or snow, but ...

Bill
Like you, I'm in Arizona. I'm driving from Phoenix to Flagstaff for the trailer. I am going super early to try and get the mid-day, warmer clean roads as I know there can be snow and ice up there this time of year. When I went last month, the ground was snow covered and the roads were clear but it's only gotten colder since then. Again, I am sure it will be fine, I'm just having newbie jitters.

Anyway, your comments about your TM and controller are helpful and I'll update as to whether or not mine even locked or not.
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