New to us 2008 3023

[MBushaw]

First tow of 2008 3023 with our 2013 F150 3.7L. Previous owner included a nice wdh but found we didn’t need it. Rear end dropped 2inches and front went up a half inch at the wheel well. Need to adjust hitch drop an inch or two.

Took a 12% mpg hit going from San Diego to Phoenix. Not bad at all!!

[Larryjb]

Congratulations!

While you may not need the WDH to level your 150, you may want to use it to balance the load better across the axles. Check your max weights on your axles. We actually overloaded the acle on our Tahoe. It is surprisingly easy to do!

[Bill]

Larry is right. It is easy to overload the rear axle of the truck (I know, I've done it on our 2014 F-150). There is a sticker in the driver's door frame that tells you the weight capacity of the rear axle. The weight on the rear axle includes the weight-on-rear-axle of the truck itself, most of the weight of everything you put in the bed of the truck, and the hitch weight of the trailer. The hitch weight of a loaded and ready-to-camp 3023 can easily exceed 600 pounds, so it is easy to reach the sticker weight.

A WDH will move some of the weight forward, which will improve handling and braking. Remember, all of the steering, and around 60% of the braking, occur at the front wheels, so if you unload the front wheels, both will suffer.

The only way to know the actual weight you are putting on the rig's three axles is to pack up the trailer and the truck, and weigh the rig. For about $10, you can get the weight on all three axles on a CAT scale (check catscale.com for locations). Very quick and easy - and very important.

I find the CAT scale to be easy and very convenient, since it is just drive-on drive-off. But you may find a local scale at the local dump or waste transfer/ landfill station, or at a gravel pit, moving company, etc And these places may be willing to do it for free.

Bill

[tentcamper]

We use a WDH only because it is a nicer ride. There is no hitch/ball noise since the WHD springs squeezes the coupler/ball. Pressing down on coupler and lifting up on the ball.

Also, there is less secondary bounce felt in the TV from the trailer. This is because the WDH makes a more rigid connection between the trailer and TV. So the shocks on the TV work somewhat to absorb the bounce of the trailer.

It takes use an extra 1-2 minutes to hook up. But we think its well worth it. i

[BrucePerens]

The brakes in your tow vehicle will work better with the WDH distributing the load properly. This is important, since the electric brakes in the trailer are pretty weak. Your tow vehicle will do most of the braking, and may have a much longer stopping distance with the trailer.

[MBushaw]

We’re all just guessing until I get the wheel weights. Everyone’s rig is different. I’ve got a factory label that says I can put 1500 pounds in the truck with stock equipment, all fluids ful. Something as simple as coil over shocks can change that number. Our miniature dachshunds are chubby but I’m pretty sure that for this trip (first tow taking the completely empty TM to its new home) we were well within axle weight of the TV. I’m still trying to figure out the axle weight of our TM. I’m much more concerned about overloading it than I am the Ford until I get those numbers. I believe the TM is built with much lower margins than Ford. I’m pretty sure that I’ll find we need to load the bed of the truck with stuff before we add weight to the TM. But we’re all just guessing for now

[MBushaw]

Originally Posted by BrucePerens

The brakes in your tow vehicle will work better with the WDH distributing the load properly. This is important, since the electric brakes in the trailer are pretty weak. Your tow vehicle will do most of the braking, and may have a much longer stopping distance with the trailer.

The truck has a really nice adjustable trailer brake system. When properly adjusted the trailer will take care of the trailer. I found that the adjustment was at 6 out of ten. Brake pedal travel and effort were about the same as no TM. Distance was further but that goes to increased weight and not enough rubber on the TM (a semi truck takes longer to stop for mostly the same reasons)

[Larryjb]

You may find my newbie experiences shared here
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=18578
interesting.

I'm actually surprised that your rear end dropped 2" on your 150. The same thing happened to my Tahoe when I hooked up my 2720. That's when I went on a scale, and checked the specs. (see the thread) I got the WDH at that point.

This spring, I changed out the original shocks ( autoride shocks) and replaced them with Bilstein 3100. I now have almost no sag in the rear. I still use the WDH though. Even though I don't have any sag with the new shocks, but the physics determine that the weight is still on the rear and taken off the front. This wil, to some degree, compromise my steering and braking abilities.

[Bill]

Larry -

Thanks for restating the conclusion shown in the TrailManor Technical Library at
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=2616
as well as many sites on the internet.

Any weight applied behind the tow vehicle's rear axle adds load on the rear suspension, and takes weight off the front wheels. Most of the tow vehicle's braking and all of the steering are performed by the vehicle's front wheels, and the tow vehicle was designed to operate properly with a certain amount of weight on the front wheels. Decreasing that weight is a bad idea, especially when you are trying to steer and control a trailer. If anything, you should add a small amount of weight to the front, not subtract from it. Air shocks or helper springs lift the rear body of the tow vehicle, but do nothing to replace the missing weight on the front wheels, or reduce the added weight on the rear suspension.

Although my F-150, and my Explorers before it, had plenty of weight capacity and tow rating, I use a WDH because the handling gets just a bit squirrelly without it, and it makes me uncomfortable. I've been in a few emergency situations, and the last thing I want is unpredictable handling.

The choice is yours, but ...

Bill

[Larryjb]

And don't forget, loading a pickup or SUV is very different from a trailer load. Cargo in a pickup/ suv generally adds weight in front of the rear axle, which keeps weight on the front axle as well.

I know Trailmanor ever recommends against a WDH for some vehicles. I believe that may be for unibody vehicles whose structure may be overstressed with a WDH. Another reason I don't like unitbody construction.

F150 and pre- 2010 Explorers are full frame.