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05-03-2017, 09:18 AM
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#11
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: New Braunfels, Texas
Posts: 919
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The TM in the photo is a tandem axle model which will weigh over 4000 lbs. loaded with propane, water, camping gear, and all the things necessary for trips, the unit may weigh closer to 4500 lbs. A 5k tow limit would be too close for comfort for me..
RV
__________________
rvcycleguy
TM-2002 3124KB
TV-2003 Toyota Tundra V8 4.7L. Fact. Tow Pkg, air bags
2006 Suzuki Boulevard C50c Motorcycle- crashed- parted out
1956 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Motorcycle-sold
2006 Harley Road King
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05-03-2017, 09:24 AM
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#12
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: GA
Posts: 504
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Is that flap only for the slideout/dinette models?
I don't believe our 3023 has (or needs) flaps the front most or rear most edges of the camper. The two bunk ends pull out and make solid contact with the the shell at the location of the flap shown.
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05-03-2017, 09:44 AM
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#13
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,223
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We have the flap on our 2720SL (with the slideout couch).
Cycle guy is right - that is a 3326, the heaviest TM ever made. A romp through the Wayback Machine would uncover the dry weight.
The original purpose of the "cubby" cut into the front wall of the slide was to enable the slide to pass over the upright propane tanks. So this TM might have upright tanks. When TM changed to horizontal tanks for the slideout models, the cubby was no longer needed. However, it didn't disappear for about 2 years. Our 2002 2720SL TM had horizontal tanks, and also had the cubby. So this TM might have horizontal tanks. Unless you can see into the cubby, I don't think you can tell which.
Bill
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05-03-2017, 01:17 PM
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#14
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orlando
Posts: 2,796
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Agree I would not want to pull a 3326 with only a 5,000 lb rating. Be aware that the spec sheet shows a dry weight (without options like awning, AC, fridge, or water) of 3520, 700 lbs more than my 2720SL and a load capacity of 1400 lbs. or 4900 lbs. total. Using the 80% rule that means you should have a TV capable of at least 6200 lbs.
Now I cannot really tell what year it is but many TMs made before 2004 had wood frames and depending on the location, may be susceptible to rot. If so check very carefully.
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Looking for a 24/17 in or near Florida.
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05-03-2017, 03:15 PM
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#15
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 489
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Unless my eyes are deceiving me, this unit has double axles, which makes it a 3326. My first TM was a 1995 3326, and "loaded" (all camping gear but no water) it came in right at about 5,000 lbs. I would be leery of pulling it with a TV rated the same.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Dave & Linda in Central Texas
2014 Lance 2285
2013 F150 w/5.0 V8
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05-03-2017, 05:34 PM
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#16
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,908
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Yeah I agree with what everyone is saying about towing. I tow a 3326 with a V8 Envoy rated to tow 6300lbs. The TrailManor gives the Envoy about all it can handle. I don't have scale numbers but I would guess my TM is loaded on the lighter side of what people stuff into their campers.
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2007/21 TM 3326 (Pride of the Fleet)
2000 2720SL (Rebuild Project)
2002 2619 (Parts TM)
SMARTER THAN GOOGLE!
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05-04-2017, 09:48 PM
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#17
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Southeast of Houston, Texas
Posts: 1,093
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Our 2619 (no slide out) is not very bug tight. If we are camping in a very buggy area, they can definitely find their way in.
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05-05-2017, 11:34 PM
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#18
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbmiller3
Our 2619 (no slide out) is not very bug tight. If we are camping in a very buggy area, they can definitely find their way in.
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The 'fridge vents are probably the main culprits. It might help to install some no-see-um netting on them. There is a BIG opening under the fridge that anything can come through if it gets through those vents. It's really like leaving an unscreened window open at least half an inch. Leaks heat or AC from the inside too.
When I installed a compressor fridge, I put insulating foam under it (cutting holes for the feet) and glued foam to both sides of the cabinet. I then used silicone from the front to seal the remaining openings, and glued molding over the edges. So, the back of the fridge is getting outdoor air only. The ducting behind the propane 'fridge was removed (it won't fit with the compressor 'fridge in there), and the fan is sitting in one of the bottom openings.
You also need metal screening on the 'fridge vents to keep rodents out. I don't know why the vents don't come with this but we had a rodent gnaw the plastic to make it wider. It took a while with a tin snips, heavy hardware screening, and a glue gun to make them rodent-proof. The screen is sealed to the plastic with hot-melt glue on all edges.
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