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Old 04-19-2016, 05:45 PM   #11
Bill
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Originally Posted by BradS7535 View Post
Thanks bill, what about the wood panel under the grey tank? Not sure what the grey thing is under the sink, but that wood there (where the black PVC pipe goes into the floor) looks like it got wet?
Sorry, I thought you were talking about the green stain.

The "gray thing" is the water heater. You are looking at the foam insulation around it. The wood below it definitely got wet at some time, but it doesn't look to me like it got soggy-wet. More like drops. In other words, the wood hasn't rotted or delaminated. I can surmise a number of ways that this water stain could have gotten there, but I don't think you will know for sure even when you lay your own eyes on it.
1. A water supply pipe leaked a bit. Probably the white one, which I think is the cold water inlet to the water heater. I'm not convinced this is right, because leaks seldom fix themselves, and most likely it isn't leaking now. Or someone has fixed it. Either way, you are good.
2. Dishwater slopped over the front of the sink and onto the floor. The sink is small - this is easy to do.
3. A plastic container of some water-based cleaner leaked. The movement and vibration as the TM travels causes them to move around and abrade. I've had this happen more than once, and so I like this possibility.
4. A drain pipe leak. This is the one I favor, because I've had it happen to me several times. That mass of big black pipe is the drain for the kitchen and bathroom sinks. As you can see, it is made up of lots of individual pieces. About half of the fittings are glued together - the other half are threaded hand-tightened fittings. When the TM is on the road, the movement and vibration causes the hand-tightened fittings to loosen, and then they leak just a few drops. A quick turn by hand tightens them up again.

Bottom line - I don't see anything to be worried about. There is no sign that there has ever been a massive leak. But then, I haven't seen it either.

The real question for the dealer is "Has this wood ever been wet while you have had it on your lot?" You kind of have to trust his answer, but as part of your pre-buy inspection, you will reach in there and hand-turn the black fittings, just to see if any are loose (I bet you'll find one or two). And you will put some water in the system, pressurize it, run some water in the sink, and see if anything leaks.

Bill
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:02 PM   #12
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Default Looks nice

This unit looks very nice to me. As usual, Padgett and Bill have some great comments. In terms of deal breakers, I would not consider battery, tires or velcro in that category. If the tires are old, make sure you have them replaced before taking it on a long trip. It doesn't matter what they look like, but the age sure does. There is a good chance you will have to replace the battery. A fresh battery would be a good thing anyway. Velcro strips can be re-done if needed.

When I was checking to see if my Air Conditioner worked, I didn't check to see if the water heater was off. Before you plug into shore power go outside to the water heater and make sure the switch is off. If you plug into shore power with the water heater switch on and no water in the tank, the element burns out in seconds. It's a pretty easy and pretty cheap fix, but still...

Hope things work out for you.
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:25 PM   #13
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Thanks for the input guys! Getting excited!
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:15 PM   #14
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Default Prospective 2006 2720

The three way refrig and the rooftop ac are both expensive repairs if needed. You may want to specifically ask the seller to test the reefer on propane and to plug in the ac to 110 v and to have them ready to test when you arrive on location. Also the propane furnace. I have a 2006 2720SL and love it. Enjoy !
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Old 04-19-2016, 09:30 PM   #15
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Quick question about checking out systems... Is there a way to check the A/C and microwave if 30A service isn't readily available? Will they run for a few minutes on a regular household outlet? I think I read that running the A/C on a normal outlet is not a good thing...
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:30 PM   #16
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Depends on what you call "normal" - the stock AC (mine is modified) will pop a 15A but run OK on 20A. I use a 10GA extension cord and garage wiring.
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:39 PM   #17
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Few more photos I received.

A little surface rust on some of the bolts, doesn't look too bad and probably easily replaced?

Looks like it has 14" tires. Any issue with replacing the tires and wheels with 15"?
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Old 04-20-2016, 02:26 PM   #18
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Yes, there can be an issue with switching from 14" to 15" tires. There has been a lot (and I mean A LOT) of discussion in the Tires forum. You should browse through it - there is no point in trying to repeat it all here. One big issue is the clearance above the tire. In 2006, TM was in the process of making some changes that relieved the issue, but not every 2006 model has the changes.

I think you have 3 alternatives:
1. Stay with the tires you've got (14 inch load range C) - how old are they? Many of our members have run that OEM size for years without a problem.
2. Find some 14" load range D tires. Some brands and sizes are identified in the discussions I've mentioned above.
3. Address the issues, and move to 15" load range D tires.

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Old 04-20-2016, 03:12 PM   #19
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You really need to pony up the $12 Sponsor fee so you can see everything.

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Check it out! Site sponsor!. Now that I am a site sponsor I can see all the other forums. I must have joined awhile ago, and then never really logged in because I never remember seeing these forums before.
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Old 04-20-2016, 03:25 PM   #20
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Quick question about checking out systems... Is there a way to check the A/C and microwave if 30A service isn't readily available? Will they run for a few minutes on a regular household outlet? I think I read that running the A/C on a normal outlet is not a good thing...
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Depends on what you call "normal" - the stock AC (mine is modified) will pop a 15A but run OK on 20A. I use a 10GA extension cord and garage wiring.
When I had the previous owner test the A/C, the "Low Fan" setting there was no issue, but as soon as we switched the A/C to "Low Cool", the compressor would kick in and it would trip the breaker.

If Padgett is suggesting a workaround using a 10GA extension, there is your solution, and I'd like to know how it would work. A quick search on Amazon revealed some very expensive extensions cords so any additional information would be great.
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