Maiden Voyage-now questions?

tlindstrand · 11-09-2014, 05:33 PM

So we took out our new TM out this weekend, to set it up and figure it out. First off I have to say man was I mad setting it up, I had no power and couldn't figure out why. Found out you need to have bathroom walls up, what a relieve it was after that. So I have a few questions, we had 30Amp hookups.

When I light the water heater and its lit, do I leave the red switch for water heater on all the time?

If we have hook up, should I use electric vs propane? I saw the cotter pin and the switch outside and left it off, just used propane? But should I switch it to electric, whats the advantage?

And last thing we did was dump station, did everything right pulled the lever under toilet so I didn't have to pop it up. So maybe I'm dumb but I have all the hoses and gloves etc etc in bumber. You can't open the bumper when its closed, can you? I ended up having to open it.

rvcycleguy · 11-09-2014, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tlindstrand

So we took out our new TM out this weekend, to set it up and figure it out. First off I have to say man was I mad setting it up, I had no power and couldn't figure out why. Found out you need to have bathroom walls up, what a relieve it was after that. So I have a few questions, we had 30Amp hookups.

When I light the water heater and its lit, do I leave the red switch for water heater on all the time?

If we have hook up, should I use electric vs propane? I saw the cotter pin and the switch outside and left it off, just used propane? But should I switch it to electric, whats the advantage?

And last thing we did was dump station, did everything right pulled the lever under toilet so I didn't have to pop it up. So maybe I'm dumb but I have all the hoses and gloves etc etc in bumber. You can't open the bumper when its closed, can you? I ended up having to open it.

Yes, leave the WH switch in the ON position when using it in the propane mode. Some here use both electric and propane modes at the same time to recover hot water more quickly. Remember, it's a 6 gal tank. When I have electric connections, I use the electric mode. Since I'm paying for it, might as well use it. Save the propane for other uses. I have an earlier model that has access to the bumper for my dump hose. What not aware on newer models there was no access.

Congrats on your maiden trip. After many years and 2 different TM's, I still learn something new on how to store, tow, camp, and enjoy the TM.

RV

hillbillyhotel · 11-09-2014, 06:00 PM

hi yas
yea that switch is to shut power to back shell so the lights to not come on when down , can make a bad burn spot in bed if light comes on , or worse.
now the hot water heater, I always run on propane , but we do a lot of outing's without hookups , and I just turn it on a few minutes before I need, no need for it to run all night or when out during the day. it heats up fast.
my hose wont fit in my bumper, been meaning to do hose mod. just not got around to it, so I carry in a vinyl bag tossed in back of truck.

**Bill** · 11-09-2014, 06:28 PM

Good advice above. Let me expand a bit.

As you know, the water heater's inside switch controls the gas heating element. It has no effect on the electric heating element. When you first turn the inside switch on, the red light beside it lights up. This red light indicates "Trying to Light". When the gas burner has properly lit, the red light goes off. At that point, leave the switch on if you want to use gas to heat the water.

I am sure you have read enough to know that you must never turn on either heating element when the water heater is empty - that is, when it is not filled with water.

You can heat water with electric or propane or both - your choice.

As for the dump station question. You didn't tell us what year/model TM you have. Why don't you add it to your signature line? I can tell you that I had a 2002 TM, with the diamond-plate steel cover over the back bumper compartment. Now I have a 2006 TM, with the gray plastic cover over the bumper compartment. Both of these covers are removable without opening the TM. You may have to release the two rear corner latches to ease the pressure on the cover, but then the cover will slide off and give access to the sewer hose compartment.

Bill

hillbillyhotel · 11-09-2014, 07:09 PM

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=15809
I think it is post #9 , it will show shat happens idf light comes on

tlindstrand · 11-10-2014, 08:57 PM

Thanks for the advice, this forum is great place to get advice. Ill be signing up once my trial expires. I have a 2008 2720SL, will make a cool signature soon when I get some good pics camping too.

11-11-2014, 06:01 AM

It's true that by undoing the rear=end latches, you will have it easier to access the bumper storage, but you will also need to make sure that your torsion bars are adjusted to lift the rear shell off the bumper.

You might want to put a sewage drain pipe mod on your list. I recently did the drain pipe mod variation that uses zip ties to hold a pvc fence post to the TM frame. Simple and quick. Used it on my last trip and wished I had done the mod sooner. Do a search for mod ideas.

tlindstrand · 11-11-2014, 09:58 PM

Ohhhh 2 more questions I just thought of. There are 4 silver looking latches you put into a little notch on all four corners. I could only get 3 of 4 latched, the one was in the living space so wasn't worried about it, but why couldn't I get it latched, it was off my about 1/2 inch. Was close to getting latched but without extreme force, I wasn't going to force it. My trailer was level too.

And when I close it, and its all folded down, the 2 latches in the middle of trailer on the torsion bars with black handles on the bottom.....ok ya following me

.....So there is an inner latch and outer one. There is no way in H E double hockey sticks the inner one is latching. I was able to latch the 2 outer ones, and then the 4 corners, so figured that was OK. But what do I do to latch those? I hope I'm explaining it right.

**Bill** · 11-11-2014, 10:29 PM

The four corner latches are really just safety latches. Their length is adjustable, of course, but you shouldn't rely on them to hold the tops down for any appreciable amount of time while you travel. You decided correctly in not forcing them - they can pull out of the trailer skin. Just adjust the length until they latch with only minimal force - but don't latch them at all until AFTER you have latched the main latches. They are not intended to help pull the shells down!

The four main latches - the ones near the center, with the black handles - are what hold the shells down. You MUST get these latched. First, lower the rear shell, while leaving the front shell up. Make sure that the rear shell goes all the way down, and is not hanging up on anything inside, such as bedding on the rear bed, or the back of the chair if you have a 2720SL. Make sure that its two main latches snap solidly into place. Then, and only then, should you lower the front shell, and make sure that its two main latches snap solidly into place. If either shell won't come down far enough to latch on both sides, something is wrong, and you need to find out what.

Get back to us.

Bill

11-12-2014, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill

...If either shell won't come down far enough to latch on both sides, something is wrong, and you need to find out what....

Bill

After a while, these words will be imprinted on your brain if you are like most of us. Every time, I start thinking that I have experienced every possible hindrance to closing, some new (to me) challenge comes along.

Here's some hints:
1. Walk around the TM. Look for a corner latch that might be obstructing closure; is the door properly shut down; is there a side of the shell bowing out and sitting on one of the supports?
2. Open the recalcitrant shell enough to stick your head in a look for something you forgot to put out of the way - something in the sink, on a table, top of a chair, too many bed coverings, noodles forgotten. Also, check all the flaps to be properly in place (they can slip off velcro and jam).
3. Lower the steps and open up the door and look inside from this angle.
4. All clear? Then next try going to the opposite TM side to the middle latch that won't latch and try pulling it down almost to closure, have DW/DH put a foot in the stirrup to hold the shell there while you go back to the other side and try closure (this actually works - sometimes!).
5. Still difficult? Go up front and chect to see if the TM is level from front to back. Sometimes, to aid drainage of rain, the front of the TM is raised - if so, bring it back down to level.

Unfortunately, if all the above fails to work, you may have lost enough of the screws that hold the floor to the frame and have some slippage that has caused the shell to move away from where it used to latch easily. I had to take my TM back to the factory to fix this problem, but in the meantime, try
inserting a plate between the latch or catch and the shell. First, measure the distance needed to assist the latch in catching easily, then add the plate(s) as needed.

These are just some of the problems/solutions that I have tried. I am sure that others have developed closure routines to address problems that will arise. Just remember that quote above!