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03-26-2014, 01:19 PM
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#21
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Guest
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Yes MisterP, seriously.
I wasn't asking for input about my marginal vehicle, driving without trailer brakes, knowing the law, driving out of state, driving over mountain ranges or stopping distance.
But that's what I got.
I did get some good information and I appreciate that. Thanks ShrimpBurrito, I hadn't thought that the listed dry weight didn't include some items.
Maybe the question isn't for the typical TM owner.
Maybe some owner somewhere dropped their tanks, pulled out their stove because they like to cook outside, took off the broken A/C unit and put in a vent. Maybe someone took out their broken fridge and they carry a cooler instead. Maybe someone was able to take off their torn awning and they now use a pop-up blue canopy instead. I don't know what these things weigh.
Maybe someone got their 33' or 32' or 31' TM down 200, 300, 400 pounds.
I'M NOT GOING TO TOW A RIG THAT'S TO CLOSE TO MY TOW VEHICLE MAX.
I don't know how many ways to say that. This thread isn't about maxing out the TV.
Towing a fully loaded, fully complimented, large size TM with a tow vehicle that can only handle 3500lbs is NOT the question and never was.
Heck, a gutted and light weight 33', 32' or 31' TM may be better than staying in a motel or even a 24' TM. I do know that 4+ people in a small camper can get crowded on rainy days. I don't want to buy a Class A, I want to keep things simple and maybe the TM can help me do that.
That's why I figured the conversation could be redirected, restarted to the original question.
Every RV can be lightened up. Has anyone done it to their TM?
That is the question.
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03-26-2014, 02:06 PM
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#22
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 662
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I didn't buy mine to strip it so I can't contribute
__________________
2012 Chevy Traverse 2009.5 TrailManor 2720 with cassette toilet modification. Cat scale weight 3980 lbs. full tanks
"Retractable hard side camper", way more than a pop up
2020 has 28 nights reserved and planning more.
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03-26-2014, 02:39 PM
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#23
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Somerset, OH
Posts: 1,868
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I would be more concern with the tongue weight. I think you are limited to 350 lbs?? I would think the tongue on that camper is a little north of 400?
Have you check the owner manual to see if there are tow capacities with a WDH. My van has 350/3,500 but with WDH its 525/5,000.
We pack light. we figure with food and no water we add between 300 to 500 lbs. We have empty cabinets. If we bring fire wood were on the high side. Must people bring between 600 to 1,000 lbs of stuff. This all need to be added in.
I'm a 100%er. I'm not concern with towing at 100% of the tow capacity. They maked it to handle the load and I paid for it. Why not use 100% of what I paid for?
__________________
Art & Joyce
Current camper: Motor Home
Previous: 2009, 3023-QB and 2003 2720
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03-26-2014, 03:05 PM
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#24
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dallen1x
Yes MisterP, seriously.
I wasn't asking for input about my marginal vehicle, driving without trailer brakes, knowing the law, driving out of state, driving over mountain ranges or stopping distance.
But that's what I got.
I did get some good information and I appreciate that. Thanks ShrimpBurrito, I hadn't thought that the listed dry weight didn't include some items.
Maybe the question isn't for the typical TM owner.
Maybe some owner somewhere dropped their tanks, pulled out their stove because they like to cook outside, took off the broken A/C unit and put in a vent. Maybe someone took out their broken fridge and they carry a cooler instead. Maybe someone was able to take off their torn awning and they now use a pop-up blue canopy instead. I don't know what these things weigh.
Maybe someone got their 33' or 32' or 31' TM down 200, 300, 400 pounds.
I'M NOT GOING TO TOW A RIG THAT'S TO CLOSE TO MY TOW VEHICLE MAX.
I don't know how many ways to say that. This thread isn't about maxing out the TV.
Towing a fully loaded, fully complimented, large size TM with a tow vehicle that can only handle 3500lbs is NOT the question and never was.
Heck, a gutted and light weight 33', 32' or 31' TM may be better than staying in a motel or even a 24' TM. I do know that 4+ people in a small camper can get crowded on rainy days. I don't want to buy a Class A, I want to keep things simple and maybe the TM can help me do that.
That's why I figured the conversation could be redirected, restarted to the original question.
Every RV can be lightened up. Has anyone done it to their TM?
That is the question.
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you certainly know what to do now to get the trailer you want to the desired weight. buy an old trailmanor and gut out all of the appliances, ac unit, awning, wardrobe and furniture. by removing the stove you could also get rid of the cabinetry on that side of the trailer.you could move the batteries to the back compartment and the propane tanks to the truck to reduce tongue weight. by putting all your gear in the truck you would have a rolling bunk house with a bathroom and an outside kitchen. not very practical, but doable. don't think you will find anybody on this forum that has taken such drastic measures, but you can be the first. keep us posted and good luck to you.
b lily
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03-26-2014, 03:58 PM
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#25
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Centennial, Colorado
Posts: 888
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Okay, I'll bite.
If there is an awning, take it off and save maybe 25#. If the AC doesn't work, take it off, and save maybe 100#, but you would then have to plug the hole. Potential for leaks.
If you take out the 'fridge, and replace it with an ice chest, the ice and cooler weight will likely be at least half of the weight you just removed, so maybe a savings of 20#. But, with the 'fridge under the stove, you still need the cabinet. What good is a cabinet if it is not holding stuff?
I like to cook outside, but if it is really bad weather, having an inside stove is good. I don't think I have used my stove inside, ever, though. Running water is nice, too, instead of pouring from a jug into a basin. I like warm water to wash in. Take out the water tank and the water heater, and you save weight. But, unless you take out the cabinetry, no gain in floor space.
I just don't see the value in stripping it to a shell, really. Having an enclosure to relax in is great. If it is simply four walls, there is much less appeal to sitting there. But, to each his own. I would get one with the slide, though, and not two beds. More room if you remove some of the cabinetry, so you can have more chairs set up.
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03-26-2014, 04:32 PM
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#26
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Guest
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There has been and I suspect always will be two schools of thought on this forum. One is those who tow their TM's with a larger TV who's capacity significantly exceeds the minimum threshold. (However we define that). They tend to be more tolerant of lower gas mileage, want more freedom to carry what they want and simply prefer to tow in a truck vs a lighter vehicle. They may already own a truck.
The second camp, use TV's that are closer to the capacities -but in my experience not over them-are more sensitive to gas mileage, restrict or modify what they carry, and perhaps do not want to buy what many would consider a more traditional TV -as the TM company themselves suggests as a selling point.
Both camps care a lot about safety and being responsible on the road.
Seems our new friend unwittingly stepped into the middle of that debate in the question he first raised. If one is interested he can search the forum and review our past discussions concerning "appropriate TV's." If you like some spicey rhetoric and strong feelings it is the place to go-at least on this forum....
To the question, within limits, I'd suggest there are a number of modifications that can be made to a TM, not that they will necessarily get you the margin of safety you need. One can also not add much weight depending on how far you want to take that, by doing without items or being sensitive to what you add. I'd suspect you want to take more than your toothbrush. As an example I use a good quality back packing kit for my pots and pans. This has worked well for us, but others may not be happy camping without their favorite 5 lb solid iron skillet.
So welcome to all that want to learn more about TM's. I hope you get one AND join our forum!
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03-26-2014, 08:04 PM
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#27
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Downsville, Louisiana
Posts: 1,069
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Here is the braking requirements as laid out in a pdf brochure published by ODOT:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...63738703,d.cWc
Towing a Trailer in Oregon, Being Equipped for safety.
" Brakes: Any combination of vehicles must be
equipped with brakes that are adequate to stop
within a certain distance. While traveling at a speed
of 20 miles per hour without leaving a 12-foot
wide lane the combination of vehicles must be
able to stop:
Within 25 feet for those vehicle combinations
under 8,000 pounds.
Within 35 feet for those vehicle combinations
over 8,000 pounds.
Oregon law does not require trailer brakes, but
their use is strongly encouraged as an additional
safety measure. Oregon law requires that all safety
equipment that came from the manufacturer on
your vehicle, including brakes, be kept in good
working order. So if your trailer is equipped with
brakes, they must be kept in good working order.
You must follow both the tow vehicle and trailer
manufacturer's recommendations for all aspects of
towing, including the use of trailer brakes."
The way I see it, the Trailmanor has electric brakes installed, therefore you must use them.
__________________
Mike Laupp
2013 Jayco Eagle Premier 351RLTS 5er - Honda 2000i x2 w ext. run tank
2017 F350 King Ranch ultimate CCLB SRW 6.7L V8 TD Fx4 BakFlip F1 & BakBox
TM History: '97 2720, '02 2720SL, '03 2720SL, '04 3326K. 2001 - 2012 yrs owned.
1990 Isuzu Trooper II 283 V6
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03-27-2014, 03:50 PM
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#28
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 251
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I have a 3124KS. I bought it used and the brochure said it was 3100 lbs I believe. I towed it home with a Lexus RX300 with a 3500 lb tow rating. You could tell that the Lexus just wasn't up to the task even on a short trip. Really straining going up the hills. The transmission started to give off an evil smell. On bumps it would bounce and the trailer would yank the car back. "Chucking" I think it's called. I stripped everything I possibly could out of the trailer and it still didn't tow well.
I bought a pickup with a 7000 lb tow rating.. Tows great. When I finally got it on the scales that trailer weighed in at 4500 lbs loaded for camping.
__________________
Camping Sunny Southern California
2003 3124KS
2005 Tundra Double Cab
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03-27-2014, 05:22 PM
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#29
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: New Braunfels, Texas
Posts: 919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riwright
I have a 3124KS. I bought it used and the brochure said it was 3100 lbs I believe. I towed it home with a Lexus RX300 with a 3500 lb tow rating. You could tell that the Lexus just wasn't up to the task even on a short trip. Really straining going up the hills. The transmission started to give off an evil smell. On bumps it would bounce and the trailer would yank the car back. "Chucking" I think it's called. I stripped everything I possibly could out of the trailer and it still didn't tow well.
I bought a pickup with a 7000 lb tow rating.. Tows great. When I finally got it on the scales that trailer weighed in at 4500 lbs loaded for camping.
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Very good real world experience. Thanks.
RV
__________________
rvcycleguy
TM-2002 3124KB
TV-2003 Toyota Tundra V8 4.7L. Fact. Tow Pkg, air bags
2006 Suzuki Boulevard C50c Motorcycle- crashed- parted out
1956 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Motorcycle-sold
2006 Harley Road King
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03-30-2014, 01:32 PM
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#30
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Guest
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Is anyone surprised that a vehicle rated to pull 3500lbs does not pull a trailer that weighs 4500lbs well?
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