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Old 01-29-2012, 09:43 AM   #11
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I would check the axles closely. My former 06 3326 had those grease fittings and the axles are suppose to be lubed every so many 1,000s of miles. If he owner has those axles and has not been lubing them, I might be concerned.

The stiffness of the latches was always a problem. After the shells werre adjusted it got better, but they were still stiff.
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Old 01-29-2012, 11:02 AM   #12
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5. Several of the hold down latches were so stiff that they had to be kicked to get them to swing close and lock the trailer down. Is this simply a matter of WD-40 or a minor adjustment?
If they won't swing closed when you step in the stirrup to pull down the shell all the way down, then
a) make sure the little spring on each latch is in place
b) lube them, front and back.

I don't usually use WD-40 in a dusty location, since it tends to leave a sticky film. Bob_Rederick, one of our members now departed from the forum, turned me on to a dry-lube teflon spray that I like a lot better than WD-40 or the usual silicone sprays. It is in a blue can at Lowes (but not Home Depot), and is called Dupont Teflon Multiuse Lubricant. Just put "Dupont teflon" in the Lowes search box and it will come right up.

If the latches still won't spring into place, then you need to adjust them upward a little bit. No big deal, though on mine I replaced the nut with a Nylock nut.

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Old 01-30-2012, 11:54 AM   #13
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I also prefer a teflon spray for lube needs. I use a can that is for doing the plastic wheels of a garage door. its mech neater than WD. bought it at home depot
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Old 01-30-2012, 12:00 PM   #14
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It is in a blue can at Lowes (but not Home Depot), and is called Dupont Teflon Multiuse Lubricant. Just put "Dupont teflon" in the Lowes search box and it will come right up.
Dupont usually makes excellent products, although I personally have never used that particular one. There are similar lubricants out there with PTFE formulations that dry after use. I think both Triflow and T9 Boeshield would be excellent for this application -- the former is easy to find, including the big box stores and especially bike shops, as it's a popular chain lube. It comes in both aerosol and drip-bottle. Boat shops often carry the latter, as an aerosol; be prepared to pay about $15-$20 for a can.

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Old 01-30-2012, 12:17 PM   #15
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Dupont usually makes excellent products, although I personally have never used that particular one. There are similar lubricants out there with PTFE formulations that dry after use. I think both Triflow and T9 Boeshield would be excellent for this application -- the former is easy to find, including the big box stores and especially bike shops, as it's a popular chain lube. It comes in both aerosol and drip-bottle. Boat shops often carry the latter, as an aerosol; be prepared to pay about $15-$20 for a can.

Dave
T-9 by Boeshield gets my vote. I sell it at my bike shop. It is more water resistant than other PTFE products. It will also stay on longer in salt water.
Downside it does have an odor. If you like to bike it makes a good chain lube as well.
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:41 PM   #16
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T-9 by Boeshield gets my vote. I sell it at my bike shop. It is more water resistant than other PTFE products. It will also stay on longer in salt water.
Downside it does have an odor. If you like to bike it makes a good chain lube as well.
Thanks for that info, will get some to use on our bike chains.

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Old 01-30-2012, 04:34 PM   #17
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Many sporting good or bike stores sell the dry Teflon spray for about 8 bucks for a decent size can.

WalMart has a good sized RV section and sells a number of items including hoses -water and sewer -at reasonable prices. And they seem to be stocking more and more items, depending on local RV demand.

And don't be afraid to make a " low bid" first offer.

Good luck.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:55 AM   #18
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Thanks to everyone for all the great info! Sorry for the delayed response but I was busy gathering info on all the used Trailmanors for sale around central Florida and traveling to see a used 26, 27, 30 and 31 footer. We ended up buying the 2006 3023 that I originally posted about here. Although it was a brutally long trip getting it home due to the horrific situation on I-75 on Sunday, we made the 500 mile journey without any trailering incidents (with frequent stops to check hookup, bearing temps, tires, lights). FYI, I stopped at a weigh station along the interstate and my trailer axle weight was 3000#. Iím estimating the tongue weight at 400# for a total trailer weight of 3400# (nothing loaded in trailer). For this trip, the TV was Ford Expedition+Tow Pkg rated at 9200#. We are very happy and excited to be joining the Trailmanor family and I will definitely be signing up as a sponsor of this great forum.

To respond to a few of the questions/comments left in this post:
Yes, I think those outside plastic pieces are the same ones I asked about. If theyíre simply cosmetic, Iím not going to rush to replace them.
The stove/oven worked fine when lit with a lighter but the spark ignition doesnít work.
They were asking upper $10K for the 2006 3023 and I paid low $9K. If there arenít any hidden bigger issues, Iím happy with the deal.
Thanks for the tip on the Dupont Teflon and other lubes. I actually have Boeshield T9 for my boat engine but may try the Dupont product from Lowes since itís more affordable

I have a lot of questions and desired mods and have been searching the forumís previous posts for info. Iíve already learned a lot (Thanks to all!). A few of the questions are more pressing so Iíve listed them here in the hopes someone can provide a quick answer.

Water pressure regulator Ė Which end of the water line should I connect it?
Ants Ė It appears some carpenter-type ants have taken a liking to the trailer. Iíve seen some that were dead in the storage area near the sink and a few live ones. Any recommended technique/product for getting rid of them (traps vs sprays)? We will have 2 dogs in the trailer so donít want anything they can get in to.
Battery Ė Does the TV alternator and/or 110V hookup charge the trailer 12V battery or do I need to recharge it with a battery charger?
Propane Switch Ė Before trailering home, I closed the 2 propane tanks by turning their individual knobs. Is this correct? Should I be doing anything with the switch between the 2 tanks when arriving or leaving campsite? Iím assuming this is just a manual switch to select between tanks.
Power adaptor Ė What adaptors are needed to hook the trailer power cable up to typical campsite 110V hookup. I saw variety of adaptors at Walmart.
Latch springs Ė Several of the stiff latches are missing the springs that were mentioned in this post. Can I get generic replacement springs at Lowes, etc.
Tires Ė What are recommended stores to replace trailer tires? Are they available and able to mount them at the larger discount stores?
Brakes Ė Whatís the best way to test the trailer brakes before hitting the road?
Queen bed flaps Ė The front bed doesnít have Velcro flaps along the edge like the back bed. I donít see where there were ever any velcro attachments. Is this normal? Are there any problems/solutions with the gap along the bed edges on this end of the trailer?
Antenna Ė There appears to be some kind of antenna with 2 wires mounted on the upper edge of the trailer top. Is this a radio antenna? My unit has speakers but no radio yet
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Old 01-31-2012, 12:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Water pressure regulator – Which end of the water line should I connect it?
Connect it between the campsite water hookup and your water hose.

Quote:
Antenna – There appears to be some kind of antenna with 2 wires mounted on the upper edge of the trailer top. Is this a radio antenna?
Yes

Quote:
Battery – Does the TV alternator and/or 110V hookup charge the trailer 12V battery or do I need to recharge it with a battery charger?
You have a converter in the TM that charges the battery while connected to 110v.
Assuming the wiring has been connected in your TV to the Bargman connector, your TV will charge the TM battery while you are towing. (Mine was wire but the fuse was missing in the TV)

Quote:
Power adaptor – What adaptors are needed to hook the trailer power cable up to typical campsite 110V hookup. I saw variety of adaptors at Walmart.
I usually stay at campsites that provide 30a hookups which the TM connects to without adapters.

I do have and use a 15(20)a-30a adapter at home to keep the TM battery charged-- like this one--> http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-adapter/24493

I've not found the need to purchase a 50a-30a adapter as of yet.



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Old 01-31-2012, 01:20 PM   #20
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Ants?
- if it were me, I would set off one of the fog bombs in the unit with all the cabinet and storage doors open. Then air the whole rig out well. They may be sugar ants and by removing all traces of food, they may disappear. You may have upset them quite a bit while on the journey home and they may be looking for a more stable home soon.

Water pressure?
- As B&T said, the regulator is coupled on the park water source, then your fresh water hose is threaded on which then goes to the TM. Some parks may have higher pressure than others and it may cause an internal leak with the TM plumbing.

Propane?
- As I do, I close (turn-off) both tanks before leaving camp and I'm good to go. The valve situated between them is to select which tank to use.

Power Adapter?
- The TM power cable is 30A. Looks like a dryer plug at home. Big, bulky and has a cord reel of 20ft or more. Most full hook up parks will have a service post with the necessary plug and breaker switch for 30a. if you want to downsize to 110v, then you will have to adapt it using a 30a to 110v adapter available at Walmart or any RV store. By doing so, you will only be able to use minimal electrical items in the TM. All your overhead lights are 12v, so they will work through the converter. The AC will most likely wants more than 110v circuit to kick-on intially and you will not be able to use the microwave and the AC at the same time. If fact your 30a may not either. Every once in awhile, a park post will have 50a and then you have to adapt the 50a to 30a and that a different adapter alltogether. It has a heavy length of cable associated with the adapter. When I go to my sisters ranch house, her set up is all 50a for rv guests so I keep one in my TM.

Latch Springs?
- several? there are 4 safety hold down latches, one on each corner. is this what you asking? They are specific to RV, not just home improvement store, if I understand your question?

Tires?
- Certainly you will want to use trailer service tires and not passenger or truck tires. I buy my Carlisle ( E rated) at Discount Tire Centers. They are located all over the West and S/W and S/E and mount, warranty for road hazard and priced accordingly. Not sure if Sam's, Walmart are carrying RV tires. Maybe something to ask due to not being able to pull in the travel trailer into the work stall.

Brakes?
- TM brakes are electrical impulsed from the TV utilizing a factory installed controller or an aftermarket unit purchased and mounted in the cab area under the dash. They are adjustable for different conditions and should be tested in a large parking area on an off day with no traffic. I believe a shop can energize the system and see if they accuate properly. Drum brakes that are electrically accuated inside the wheel drum per side.

Queen Bed Flaps?
- I have a 3124 and the rear bed does not have velcro flaps. the front bed does. Are you sure your asking about the front or rear?

Antenna?
- yes, the unit is wired for a car radio set-up. The panel is located under the kitchen counter top and the refridgerator. It will accept most standard car radio (12v) CD, radio, players.
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