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Old 07-16-2010, 06:39 AM   #31
tgpmd1
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Thanks! It looks like I need to add a 30 amp circuit to the house!
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Old 07-16-2010, 07:21 AM   #32
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Are you sure you won't need a WDH? Do you have a lot of sag on the rear of the TV? If so, don't waste too much money on buying different ball hitches, you won't use them if you need a WDH. Your brake controller should be top priority.

With the small amount of use, you probably just need a repack on the bearings.
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Old 07-16-2010, 08:36 AM   #33
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We haven't towed it yet, the owner towed to our house using our 3.5 inch drop hitch (that's all we could find at Walmart on such sort notice, they were out of straight 2 inch ball hitches). It sagged in the front when backed into our house. We live on a cul-de-sac and it was kinda of a real tight turn into the drive. It sagged too much in the front when backing in. He said we really need a 2" straight. Not sure if we need a wdh on the Tahoe. They have a similar vehicle and seemed to be just fine. First priority is to make sure everything works first before taking it out. Want to get new tires also. I have to read up on the braking system needed for the Tahoe. We purchased a towing package, but I know we'll need to add a thing or two before we take it out.

I'm thinking of getting a front hitch for the Tahoe to make getting the TM into the drive easier.

Thanks!

Theresa
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:59 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgpmd1 View Post
We haven't towed it yet, the owner towed to our house using our 3.5 inch drop hitch (that's all we could find at Walmart on such sort notice, they were out of straight 2 inch ball hitches). It sagged in the front when backed into our house. We live on a cul-de-sac and it was kinda of a real tight turn into the drive. It sagged too much in the front when backing in. He said we really need a 2" straight. Not sure if we need a wdh on the Tahoe. They have a similar vehicle and seemed to be just fine. First priority is to make sure everything works first before taking it out. Want to get new tires also. I have to read up on the braking system needed for the Tahoe. We purchased a towing package, but I know we'll need to add a thing or two before we take it out.

I'm thinking of getting a front hitch for the Tahoe to make getting the TM into the drive easier.

Thanks!

Theresa
The TM would tow much safer with a WDH on your Tahoe.

You don't need a 30A outlet and breaker on your house just to run the AC and a few lights. The 30A outlet will not increase the amount of voltage to your TM. It would, however, allow you to run an additional appliance without tripping a 20A breaker. Tripping your breaker would be your only concern with using 20A service. If you find that you are having to reset the breaker a few times, you will either have to cut back on what you are running in the TM or install a 30A breaker.

One tip would be to plug the TM in for a few hours before turning on the AC so that the battery is fully charged.

If you must use an extension cord (beyond your 30A cord on the TM), be sure that it is at least a 12G HD extension cord and no longer than 50' (25' would be better). If you use a smaller gauge or longer extension cord, you will experience voltage drop that could harm the compressor on your AC unit. A 30A outlet will not improve this, it will only make it more dangerous if you use an extension cord.

If you do install a 30A breaker and need to use an extension cord, be sure to buy a 30A extension cord. If you use a 12G, 20A extension cord, you could over-heat it and have a fire if you overload it. I would rather risk a 20A breaker tripping from overload than risk using an under rated extension cord on a 30A circuit.
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Old 07-16-2010, 10:22 AM   #35
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Thanks, we're having a heat wave in D.C. and no shade to park under at the house. I'm running out now to get more things and the tags for the TM. I'll look for a 12 gauge ext. cord while I'm out.
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:16 AM   #36
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I don't think you need a 30 amp circuit unless you want to run everything at once.

Without the A/C a 15 amp circuit is fine. Borderline with A/C on.
My house has an outside 20amp outlet and the A/C works fine . (use adapter plug).

I can run anything - except I won't run A/C, Microwave, Fridge, and electric WaterHeater at the same time.
Just like you can run everything at once in your house , the TM is wired 30amp to run it all. (Microwave may be option)

I can't find specs for your RVP model 2202-876
Many Coleman/RVP specs are listed here: http://www.coastdistribution.com/PDF...uct%20Page.pdf
.... (Caution: the specs may differ some of our older units.)
Page 4 shows my Coleman RVP MACH 3+ 8333:
14.5 amps for cooling. Ranging from 1595 to 1924 watts. (see fine print for testing conditions).
Other units listed have a variety of requirements 12.6, 14.3,14.5, 9.3, 10.2, 12.7, 9.0 amps.

For testing all your 120v devices the Kill-A-Watt meters are really cheap now. Home Depots are selling them.


To reduce load while using the A/C you may want to have batteries charged or disconnected first to disable charging.
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:41 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgpmd1 View Post
Thanks, we're having a heat wave in D.C. and no shade to park under at the house. I'm running out now to get more things and the tags for the TM. I'll look for a 12 gauge ext. cord while I'm out.
If you are going to purchase a new ext cord just for the TM, you may want to price the 30A cords. If you are ever camped at a CG that you need an ext cord to reach the CG 30A service, you will be glad that you have it.

BTW, Did you check the date code on those tires? Please don't neglect that, that is one of the weak points on these TMs. The TM tends to run toward the top end of the tire rating and trying to get more than 5 years service out of the tires can be risky (especially if they are 14" tires).

It's not unusual for a new trailer to have tires that are already 1+ years old. If they purchased the trailer new in 2005, the tires could easily be over 6 years old. I wouldn't trust them.
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Old 07-16-2010, 02:54 PM   #38
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A lot of people come on the forum and say "I run my A/C all the time off of a household circuit" so it must be OK. Not to pick a fight here, but just because people do it does not make it a good idea. I personally am not a big fan of the "I have never had a problem doing this" theory. But then I worked in the safety industry for a long time and saw people get hurt because of it.

From a commercial electrical website:

Normal House Wiring Gauge
Consult your building inspector because your location will have a specific building code!
Circuit Maximum Amperage Minimum COPPER wire gauge
15A 14AWG
20A 12AWG
30A 10AWG
45A 8AWG
60A 6AWG
80A 4AWG
100A 2AWG

So if you are in a newer home, your 20A circuits probably use 12 AWG if you are lucky. But what else is running on that circuit when you plug in the TM? What if a previous owner switched the breaker to 20A on a 15A circuit to prevent a nuisance trip?

Running a TM off an undersized home circuit does reduce the voltage to the trailer. I did not say it's the 30A plug, it's the undersized wiring if you have it that causes the problem. And will overheat if overloaded which reduces the voltage further and so on.

By spending a bit of money to install a dedicated 30A circuit you eliminate the uncertainty. And you don't have to worry about how you turn on stuff in the TM if you live in a hot climate like I do.
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Old 07-16-2010, 02:58 PM   #39
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I think the Kill-A-Watts are great. I own two of them. I would use one for everything except when the air conditioner is on. First, the Kill-A-Watt is specified at 15 amps max, and although the running amps are less, the starting amps can exceed this. Second, I once saw a scheatic of the internals of a Kill-A-Watt. My memory may fail me, but I think it sensed current by passing it through a low-value resistor, and measuring the voltage across that resistor. A shunt, in other words. And a shunt causes a voltage drop. A small one, to be sure, but in a situation where you are already marginal on voltage, an extra drop may not be a good plan.

The Kill-A-Watt also has an internal fuse. If you pop it, it is not a big deal - except that it is soldered in, and no one seems to know the value (I'd guess 20A).

Just my thoughts.

Bill
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:24 PM   #40
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LOL....poor lady has be over whelmed with all this info being thrown at her that took me a year to learn!

Crash course I guess.
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