Protective cage around plumbing

[ShrimpBurrito]

Inspired by member's Joseph's comment on how his mud flap did little to protect his plumbing from a tire blowout, I finally took the plunge on what I had been wanting to do for some time: I installed a metal cage around the plumbing. In anticipation of an upcoming 8,000-mile trip, where we will be loaded and going through hot states in the middle of the summer, I figured now is as good a time as any.

I went to my local metal shop, and had him craft a simple box out of 11 gauge galvanized steel. This thing is beefy -- it weighs about 20 pounds. At first, I was thinking of having him weld a brace across the back, but after getting this thing mounted, I don't think it is not necessary. I gave it a few good kicks with my shoe, and although it does vibrate a little, it does not move or bend one bit.

I attached the front of it by putting two 3/8" bolts through the protruding frame member directly behind the wheel. The rear is also attached with 2 fasteners: I drilled and tapped a hole for a 3/8" bolt in one of the two center frame rails, where the box is attached with a galvanized angle bracket, and one lag screw going up into the outer edge of the floor where there is a wood stud (the box of the trailer is attached to the protruding frame member this way).

I'm hoping clearance won't be an issue. Being a bit over an inch below the drain connector, it is 11" down from the floor, which is only about 1.5" lower than the bottom of the grey water tank, and further back, the rear stabilizer jack. So I think I will be ok -- I haven't scraped either of those two yet, and I figure if I'm going to scrape anything, scraping the new box will be a good warning that I am cutting it close to the grey water tank.

Dave

[Keith Wire]

That looks real nice Dave. Just what I was wanting to do also.

Could you post some measurements?

Thanks, Keith

[ShrimpBurrito]

Sure, Keith. The width is 29.5", depth is 13.5", and the sides are 11" tall. The lip on the top of the back end is 1.5" wide.

I had the shop drill holes for the 2 screws to mount the box on the forward end -- 3" from the top and 4" from the sides. I did so before seeing exactly where they would match up on the frame. That almost put me in a bit of a bind because the inside hole I had to drill in the frame to match was very difficult to reach before of the toilet drain pipe. I had to use a right angle drill attachment, and even then, it was at a slight angle.

I just calculated that I used 5 sq ft of steel, and since 11 ga is 5 lbs/ sq ft, that makes the box 25 lbs. I think the steel alone is about $50. The shop charged me $75 for materials and labor.

If I had to do it again, I might do two 45 angles on the rear end instead of the 90 so that the back "wall" is angled. That would help improve clearance a bit. There would also be a negligible reduction in weight.

Dave

On a relatively with no tight bumps or ditches, as in when crossing a dry creek bed, I know from my experience that the rear hitch receiver will drag before the plumbing will.

Therefore, I would be inclined to bend the rear part of the protective cage up at an angle, perhaps around 45 degrees, right after the sewer connections and then bend another angle to go vertical just behind the low point drains. Being squared off like that, I would likely hit the back edge of the cage on many of my trips.

But, most people do not go where I go. So it ought to be find for them.

[ShrimpBurrito]

I should note that the trailer as pictured is on a 10% slope with the tongue jacked up quite a bit to make the trailer level. 10% is a pretty steep road, and thus, the cage as pictured is unusually close to the ground....so it's not really as bad as it looks.

Dave

Yea! That's what I'm talking about. That looks really good!

[ShrimpBurrito]

Originally Posted by Joseph

Yea! That's what I'm talking about. That looks really good!

Thank you!

I need something similar for the battery holder on the front. Over Memorial Day I hit a 9 inch rock and bent the angle iron.

But that is another topic, I might start a new thread.

I just had a blow out on a 4,000 mile trip and it took off the ends of the gray water and toilet outlets. Thank goodness it left the toilet T handle and slide cover inside the pipe so I could still use the toilet (emptying it was a duct tape nighmare) and for $1.16 I got a 1 1/2" pvc cap to close off the gray water pipe.
So........ a protective shield should be standard equipment by now on new TM models instead of folks having to build cages.

[Speckul8r]

This has been brought up several times but I thought I'd show you my version that I made b4 our last trip. It's made out of 1" X 1" angle from Lowe's cut, bent and welded to 2 - 45 degree angles and 1 - 90. The plate is Stainless Steel .060" thick liberated from a outside conveyor belt motor cover that we dismantled at a friends house. (Anybody need a 3HP reversible electric motor w/ controls and gear head?) I bolted the front to the support behind the wheel and the rear was bolted to the frame on the inside, after it had been drilled and tapped, and the torsion bar plate on the outside. Bolts are all SS and nuts are all SS Nylock.

I was a bit concerned over the ground clearance but, after 3300+ miles, there is no sign that it had dragged. Even going thru the construction in Chicago with their numerous tank traps.

Hope it never gets tested but it seemed like a good idea at the time.