Black rubber shell pads

bonusvalue · 08-15-2018, 09:54 AM

I am looking for the size of the rubber shell pads that are mounted on the front frame and the back above the bumper. I think they are 5" inches long but I don't know the width or height. Mine are gone on the trailer I just bought.

**Bill** · 08-15-2018, 10:25 AM

The length and width aren't really critical. You can probably estimate the length (front-to-back direction) by looking at the screw holes in the bumper. From memory, 5 inches or so would be fine. Assuming that there are no marks on the bumper to help you guess the width, I think 2 inches would be fine.

The important item is the thickness, and I'm guessing 1/2 inch. The idea is that when the shell rests on the bumper, you can still latch the latches. If the original pads are gone, it is possible that the previous owner re-adjusted the corner latch on each side to make up for it. If so, you will need to adjust the latches back outward - they should require pressure that is just a bit more than gentle, but not at all forceful. You should see the shell move down a very small amount as you latch them.

The hardness of the rubber is hard to describe, except to say that it is about as hard as tire tread. In fact, some of our members have picked up a hunk of tread from beside the road and cut it to the desired size. Apparently this worked well.

One of our members found slabs of the right material on Amazon - you still have to cut it to size.

You could always query the TM parts department, and most likely they can send you some. I don't think it is a secret that parts are expensive from any RV shop, including TM. So since I am cheap, I would go with the tire tread approach.

Bill

grubbyjeans · 08-15-2018, 03:39 PM

I went to a tire salvage place and after explaining what I needed, they gave me an old truck tire, from which I can cut several sets.

**J_Norris** · 08-15-2018, 08:52 PM

Just to add another price-point: For those considering getting new ones, last month I got a set of 4 new rubber bumpers from Trailmanor that cost $17.36 for all four including shipping. If you purchase from Trailmanor, I'd measure the maximum distance between the screws and add some amount (a half inch?) and tell them over the phone you need them to be at least that length. Mine barely fit, I had to put them on in the right order or it wouldn't have worked because the screw distances aren't identical, so I needed to line them up by size to make sure the longest ones went in the right spot... and even so, 2 of them were a little short so I had to orient them a bit diagonally.

And they were just under a half-inch thick -- 15/32 on my ruler.

Cynical · 09-17-2018, 07:21 AM

I too picked up a "gator" from the side of the road and made my new bumpers. I have not adjusted the travel latches as yet because they look pretty nasty and I may have to get new ones anyway. I was missing 1 bumper all together and 2 of the remaining 3 were pretty crushed. The missing one was the front street side, just where I am having my sidewall lift issue. I think Bill suggested the bumper and or pulling too tight on the latch as a possible culprit, I am thinking both were in play.

Craigrrr · 09-17-2018, 07:42 AM

I had originally bought some rubber from amazon but after 1 year in the sun , they deteriorated . So after that I just searched the highway and found a nice tractor trailer tread and made a couple more. they are about 1/2" thick

**Bill** · 05-22-2022, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmanor

I did not like using the screws again, and replaced them with aluminum rivets, 1/8" with 1/2" grip

I'm about to do the same thing, since the front pads on my TM have ripped out from the screws that hold them in place, and disintegrated. By the way, I blame this on the fact that the front shell torsion bars don't have enough lift, and the adjusters have maxed out. But that is the subject of a different thread.

So Mickmanor. How did you come to choose aluminum rivets rather than steel? How did you decide on 1/8" diameter? Did you drill out the screw hole to fit the rivet diameter?

Shane - you said that the pads from TM are too soft. Were you referring to the OEM pads, or ones newly installed on your TM?

Wavery - did you buy the material from Amazon based on some knowledge, or just because it looked good? I bought a 6X6 piece of the same stuff, just because it looked good. I have it in my hand, and it feels good, too. It may be hard to cut ...

Bill

mickmanor · 05-22-2022, 03:47 PM

in 1/2" grip length, so that is what I decided to use. I'll keep an eye on them to see
if there is any wear and tear. Right, I had to drill out the holes to 1/8", which did not
take much work.

My torsion bars still have some adjustment left, although I did add a little bit, 1/2 turn each,
after buying the 2720 a year ago. I stored the unit upright over winter to see if the torsion bars
might "revive" themselves somewhat, and I believe that did take place. I posted
that in another post. Being a senior, ahem, I find the lifting process is a mild effort, and
setup is much less work than a typical popup camper.

Happy Camping!

Wavery · 05-22-2022, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill

I'm about to do the same thing, since the front pads on my TM have ripped out from the screws that hold them in place, and disintegrated. By the way, I blame this on the fact that the front shell torsion bars don't have enough lift, and the adjusters have maxed out. But that is the subject of a different thread.

So. How did you come to choose aluminum rivets rather than steel? How did you decide on 1/8" diameter? Did you drill out the screw hole to fit the rivet diameter?

Shane - you said that the pads from TM are too soft. Were you referring to the OEM pads, or ones newly installed on your TM?

Wavery - did you buy the material from Amazon based on some knowledge, or just because it looked good? I bought a 6X6 piece of the same stuff, just because it looked good. I have it in my hand, and it feels good, too. It may be hard to cut ...

Bill

I bought it because it looks good too.

I have it now, just haven't cut and installed them yet. They are pretty far firm. I'm thinking the latch screw will need to be adjusted pretty far out.

Wavery · 05-24-2022, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill

Wavery - did you buy the material from Amazon based on some knowledge, or just because it looked good? I bought a 6X6 piece of the same stuff, just because it looked good. I have it in my hand, and it feels good, too. It may be hard to cut ...

Bill

Bill,

I just finished cutting and replacing all 4 roof bumpers.

I cut mine with a utility knife with a new blade. I found that if I made the 1st cut (about 1/8" deep) with the blade running along a steel ruler it cuts nicely.

After the 1st cut, I put the rubber pad on top of a piece of wood with a sharp edge. Place the pad with your 1st cut laying flat, with the cut straddling the edge of the board. Press on both sides of the cut and the cut will open up. Make 3 or 4 more cuts (be sure your blade is square with the cut) until you cut all the way through.

If you just lay the pad down flat and try to cut through it, the rubber on each side of the cut offer a lot of resistance and make cutting through difficult.

For the rear pads they need to be cut to fit the openings in the rear bumper door. The material that I purchased is 2" wide so I just cut the front pads to length and left them 2" wide. That actually works quite nicely as they cover the entire top of the frame and give more area for the roof to rest on.

After I installed them, I closed up the trailer (which went smoothly). When I tried to reopen the front and rear corner latches, I had a hard time releasing that little hook. I had to push down hard on the roof to get it free. I would suggest unscrewing those hooks about 3-turns before closing then adjust them as needed.