Poor man’s Sealand is in, but….. grey tank leak

[Deb Mac]

Got the new toilet set-up in and ready to go. No leaks and managed to get the dump valves all rejigged and in place without much trouble. At least not as much as I expected there could have been!

I had to build everything above the black tank gate valve from scratch, since moving everything toward the rear made it so the handle of the black tank gate valve ran into the 1 1/2” pipe from the grey tank, and prevented complete opening of the valve. A new 90 street elbow allowed me to set up the gate valve at a 45 degree angle, so I can clear the grey tank pipe and have additional insurance against accidental opening and leaks from vibration.

However all of the cutting and manipulation and very slight misalignment at the grey tank pipe/gate valve connection has resulted in a leak at the grey tank/pipe connection.

Looks like I may have to do some rebuilding of the grey pipe as well as reseal that connection at the tank.

But that is for another day.

[commodor47]

I had to replace my grey water tank a few years ago. Like you, the pipes did not line up perfectly. Keeping in mind there is no water pressure to speak of, the attached thumbnail shows how the problem was addressed.
Dick

[Deb Mac]

Thanks Dick. I was really hoping I could use a rubber sleeve like that… have one that I had thought I would use, but because the toilet discharge had to be shifted back about 1-2”, there isn’t enough of a run between the valve and the curved section of pipe to put anything in there. You can see it’s only an inch or so between the hubs.
But… Might be able to alter the angles enough by cutting the section between the tank and the curve and realigning it there using the rubber sleeve. ABS plumbing is cheap enough and I would prefer to get things lined up rather than apply stress at the tank and crack it. So if I mess up I can always start again!
Any way I go though, I will be cleaning and resealing it at the tank fitting.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Deb Mac

Thanks Dick. I was really hoping I could use a rubber sleeve like that… have one that I had thought I would use, but because the toilet discharge had to be shifted back about 1-2”, there isn’t enough of a run between the valve and the curved section of pipe to put anything in there. You can see it’s only an inch or so between the hubs.
But… Might be able to alter the angles enough by cutting the section between the tank and the curve and realigning it there using the rubber sleeve. ABS plumbing is cheap enough and I would prefer to get things lined up rather than apply stress at the tank and crack it. So if I mess up I can always start again!
Any way I go though, I will be cleaning and resealing it at the tank fitting.

A sleeve between the tank and the curve will also protect your tank in the event of an accident. You would be far better off if an impact pulled the pipe out of the sleeve instead of breaking your tank. I plan on doing that to our plumbing too and we've never had an issue.

[Deb Mac]

Originally Posted by Wavery

A sleeve between the tank and the curve will also protect your tank in the event of an accident. You would be far better off if an impact pulled the pipe out of the sleeve instead of breaking your tank. I plan on doing that to our plumbing too and we've never had an issue.

And that, Sir, is an Excellent point! Hadn’t considered that particular scenario. I was still in assembly and “please don’t leak” mode with all of the plumbing work I’ve been up to.

If I knew exactly how that pipe is connected to the tank, I might consider removing it, cleaning up around the outlet and reseating and resealing it. But not wanting to jump from the frying pan into the fire, I think I will limit myself to clean and seal and support. But definitely going to put a cut in that pipe and use the rubber sleeve to help with the alignment problem.

If it isn’t raining tomorrow, that will hopefully complete the last job on the plumbing list.

[Kidkraz]

Make that 4 who have a rubber boot, due to a broken line for the grey tank. I echo Wavery's comments.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Deb Mac

Next job... tires, brakes and bearings.

Suggestion for brakes.....
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...BRK-35-SA.html

I put these on every trailer that I have bought. EZ to install and the self adjusters are terrific. They self-adjust in forward or reverse.

They also have the correct bearings and seals.

If you can't find anyone that surfaces the magnet face in the drum, just remove all the rust with a power wire brush and 150 grit emery cloth.

[Deb Mac]

Originally Posted by Wavery

Suggestion for brakes.....
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...BRK-35-SA.html

I put these on every trailer that I have bought. EZ to install and the self adjusters are terrific. They self-adjust in forward or reverse.

They also have the correct bearings and seals.

If you can't find anyone that surfaces the magnet face in the drum, just remove all the rust with a power wire brush and 150 grit emery cloth.

Thanks. Always good to know what fits and works! I expect the brakes are fine, but I want to check them and grease the bearings since I’ll have the wheels off putting new tires on.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Deb Mac

Thanks. Always good to know what fits and works! I expect the brakes are fine, but I want to check them and grease the bearings since I’ll have the wheels off putting new tires on.

If the brakes look good, be sure to check the "Wear sensors" on the magnets. The magnets are so cheap that I would just install new ones. They are the common parts that fail on electric brakes.

https://www.amazon.com/Libra-Electri...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[Deb Mac]

Originally Posted by wavery

if the brakes look good, be sure to check the "wear sensors" on the magnets. The magnets are so cheap that i would just install new ones. They are the common parts that fail on electric brakes.

https://www.amazon.com/libra-electri...nsawnrpxrydwu=

👍